Desperately Need Advice on 1962 Power Brakes!!!

[invicta62]

Here is the situation: my local shop was repairing my brakes (1962 Ivicta with power brakes) -- new shoes (even replacement front drums), hoses, rebuilding wheel cylinders, etc. Then they went to rebuild the master cylinder and the problems began.

They removed the master cylinder from the power brake unit (by unbolting the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the power brake unit). The master cylinder piston stayed connected to the power brake unit push rod. According to the shop, the piston should have stayed inside the master cylinder, while the pushrod would have stayed connected to the power brake unit. They (so far) cannot seem to separate the piston from the push rod

They assert that without separating the two (the piston and the push rod) I need a complete new master cylinder/power brake unit combo, since they cannot rebuild the master cylinder and can't use the power brake unit with a new master cylinder (since they cannot reinsert the piston and the retaining clip inside the master cylinder if they can't separate it from the push rod). The focus, so far, has been on trying to separate the piston from the push rod.

In reading over the shop manual, it seems that the proper way to do things was to have removed the master cylinder/power brake unit combo together. The shop manual even suggests not separating the master cylinder from the front housing of the power brake unit unless absolutely necessary.

I guess the first, main question is: what is the proper procedure for separating the master cylinder piston from the power brake unit push rod? Is one supposed to separate the rear housing the power brake unit first?

The next question is: if the shop hasn't done anything wrong, does anyone have any suggestions on how to separate the piston from the push rod? Any and all help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. There's a big Buick show nearby on Sunday, and unless I get this worked out tomorrow, we will have a car with no brakes -- so no show!!!

Thanks in advance.

[58buickspecial]

Sheety deal, I'm taking a guess here but I'm assuming that there isnt anyone in the shop that hasnt ever seen a set up like that and should have done a bit of research before tackling a project like that. Research that would have been as simple as going to the library and get a chiton manual.

Example: Had to take my 68 dodge polara 500 up to northern alberta, got a seperated tire, no prob, so I went to a fountain tire, a big chain up here. The kid changing my tire didnt clue in, you'd think this would be a obvious sign to stop. But when he went to take off the lug nuts, they wouldnt come off. He went and got a bigger impact gun and proceded to break off all my lug nut and come out and tell me that I should maintain my vehical better. It would have been too simple to stop and ask a supervisor or me....

For alot of pre 70s cars, trucks ect the bolt pattern on one side was regular, righty tight, lefty loosy, other side because of pariniod theory right loosy, lefty tighty....know what I mean?

So for that little prick that was ignorant with me, he was fired and the shop had to put me in a hotel, food, car, ect for 2 days until they could find proper lugs and lug nuts. For something that simple and lack of understanding but at least they admited they were wrong. Unfortunate for you it looks like they are trying to make it look different. Take your book and show them the instructions and tell them to fix the dam thing so you can get to the show, if they do you might come back for repete biz. Well I wouldnt but they should be kissing ass to get it right. :af:

[invicta62]

Yeah, there are a lot of unknowledgeable people out there working on cars, but I don't think that's the case here. This is my local shop; they've done lots of work on the car before, always with great results and the owner just loves working on older cars. He almost always way undercharges me for the hours he spends correcting mistakes people made over the years with the car.

And, I'm not even certain that their taking the master off made any difference.

However, given the situation I'm in, can anyone provide any suggestions on how to separate the piston from the push rod?

Thanks.

[dukec]

If memory serves me - and sometimes it doesn't. The master cylinder piston is actually a part of the power booster on your application.

If you were to buy a new master cylinder for your Buick with the power brake option - it would be a box containing the master cylinder casting and the rubber parts to be changed on the original piston.

If the shop has a new master cylinder with the piston in it - it is probably for a manual brake set up.

I can't remember if the bore and casting are the same (power & non). If the bore etc is the same, they should be able to dis-assemble the new MC and remove the rubber parts. Then re-install them on the old piston which is still attached to the power unit. Then slid the casting over the piston and bolt it to the Power Unit.

If the bore on the new MC is not the same size as the old one - they just have the wrong parts. In this case you will need a rebuilt kit for the MC that is correct for power brakes. If the casting is pitted - which it probably is and un-available new - they will need to send the casting to a machine shop for sleeving.

What I am trying to say is that the piston does not come off the power brake unit. So don't let them try to force it.

Hope this helps. Good luck.