Buick 455 into Regal, whats wrong?

[monkeyy337]

Two weeks have gone by and I still can't get the 455 centered into my Regal. I've tried the "Leviathan" string method which makes sense but the only way I can get things almost centered is if I take the transmission mount bolt out of the cross member and when it almost get centered the engine mounts or not really in the location I think they should be and usually one of the two mounts is not flush with cross member. Should the rubber portion of the mounts be trimmed so they move freely in the frame mount side. This is a race only 84 Regal (no heater box, etc) to worry about. I'm starting to think I should have put the big block chevy back in the car but after spending 7 thousand on this Buick motor it would be nice to make at least one pass at Beech Bend before the track closes this year. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

[Floydsbuick]

Well...I don't have a BBB Regal, but I do know this. The engines in those cars were offset from the factory to the pass side about an inch. Perhaps that is whats throwing you off. So the stock mounts and trans mount will all be offset.

[sharkmonkey]

When I did mine, I thought for sure I was all wrong but I verified it was centered and drilled the holes anyway. The passenger side frame mount sits way forward. It looks really crooked. I don't have the car any more but maybe someone who does have one can snap a picture.
MARK

[Weekender]

Two weeks have gone by and I still can't get the 455 centered into my Regal. I've tried the "Leviathan" string method which makes sense but the only way I can get things almost centered is if I take the transmission mount bolt out of the cross member and when it almost get centered the engine mounts or not really in the location I think they should be and usually one of the two mounts is not flush with cross member. Should the rubber portion of the mounts be trimmed so they move freely in the frame mount side. This is a race only 84 Regal (no heater box, etc) to worry about. I'm starting to think I should have put the big block chevy back in the car but after spending 7 thousand on this Buick motor it would be nice to make at least one pass at Beech Bend before the track closes this year. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

How far out is the alignment?? It is more than an inche out of line with the center section of the rear end you may have the front mounts in the wrong holes. As I recall there are several different front mount bolt patterns in the cross member.

I used the Poston front engine mounts and they bolted right in and the alignment up front was as it should be. I then had to make a Transmission mount support from another type vehicle but I had movement either way off center to align transmission.

Weekender

[sharkmonkey]

Mine was an 85 Regal and the Poston mounts didn't line up with the holes. I had to elongate a couple of the holes on each side.

[Stage1 Jeff]

I used the frame pads from a '68 GS in my 82 regal

[Leviathan]

It will "look" wrong compared to a chevy mounting system. The pad offsets and the "V" being a few degrees different will do it.

Do you have some pics of where the mounts are?

[monkeyy337]

Took some measurements today and are as follows: with the strings centered on each other the engine is almost one complete bubble tilted off center to the left (drivers side). With the engine level (bubble in the middle) the engine is 1/2 inch to the right (passenger side) using the string method. The car is also level (bubble in the middle) before I started this endever. With the engine level and 1/2 inch to the right (passenger side) the string is straight down the middle of the rear end and driveshaft. Maybe it won't get any better than this and I have been chasing my tail, you (someone) tell me! Awaiting new instructions from someone (help)! Thanks again in advance.

[bigdawg70]

what motor mounts are you using to try to center it? what trans and crossmember are you using? Are you trying to center with the headers attathced? When i put my 455 in i ended up grinding a little off one of the mounts. I also welded them in you may find it difficult to get it perfectly straight if you are tryin to bolt them in the car I also had to modify the crossmember to make tha 400 trans workin the vehicle. Since its not a direct fityou may need to do some modifying

[monkeyy337]

I'm using Poston steel mounts, a 350 turbo transmission with stock crossmember, a bare 455 block (its easier to move around) with is connected to the transmission, driveshaft, and the 8.5 GN rearend. This is the same stuff that I used (never took out of the car) when I removed the 427 Chevy motor. The only difference is the motor mounts. The Chevy mounts of course bolted to existing holes already factory drilled in the cross member. I never checked (or had to) check the Chevy motor to see if it was straight/level. I just hammered it to 11.02 @ 124mph, sure hope this Buick will run similar or better numbers. The Buick is 250lbs lighter than the Chevy motor and of course its all front end weight.

[Weekender]

I'm using Poston steel mounts, a 350 turbo transmission with stock crossmember, a bare 455 block (its easier to move around) with is connected to the transmission, driveshaft, and the 8.5 GN rearend. This is the same stuff that I used (never took out of the car) when I removed the 427 Chevy motor. The only difference is the motor mounts. The Chevy mounts of course bolted to existing holes already factory drilled in the cross member. I never checked (or had to) check the Chevy motor to see if it was straight/level. I just hammered it to 11.02 @ 124mph, sure hope this Buick will run similar or better numbers. The Buick is 250lbs lighter than the Chevy motor and of course its all front end weight.

If you are only out 1/2" I can only say, thats what they have universal joints for. 1/2" out over a 58" or 59" drive shaft length isn't enough to sneeze at, let alone loose sleep over. Look at the difference in height from your trans shaft to your pinion shaft. 1/2" will hardly make your universals swivel.

And remember, your pinion shaft is offset to allow for the ring gear within the rearend housing so it isn't in the exact center of the car anyway, so it is unlikely your tail shaft will be looking staright at the pinion shaft.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!

Weekender

[Leviathan]

Took some measurements today and are as follows: with the strings centered on each other the engine is almost one complete bubble tilted off center to the left (drivers side). With the engine level (bubble in the middle) the engine is 1/2 inch to the right (passenger side) using the string method. The car is also level (bubble in the middle) before I started this endever. With the engine level and 1/2 inch to the right (passenger side) the string is straight down the middle of the rear end and driveshaft. Maybe it won't get any better than this and I have been chasing my tail, you (someone) tell me! Awaiting new instructions from someone (help)! Thanks again in advance.

1/2 inch is pretty good. IIRC I mucked around until I had 1/8 bubble off level and 1/32 off centre. Even at 1/2, considering you're building a racer I don't think you'll notice the vibration unless you're really picky about that kind of thing (I am, and I spent *hours* lining it all up).

One thing lost from the original writeup was that you can centre first, then relevel by making up some shims for the pads out of 1/16" plates. There is always some twist in the frames and the engine mounts being rubber there's a tolerance.

From what you're written, I'd suggest that you favour the centre position over the level position Basically go for the centering string of the engine lining up with the frame centering string more than having the engine perfectly level. The reasoning is that you'll get a slightly better alignment (minimizing vibration) at the cost of the engine sitting a little odd.

Hope that helps...

[buickapollo455]

Motor mounts into regal 350 and 455 dont work, the holes wont line up. I tend to use like Electra mounts engine and frame and drill to fit and shim if nessasary. I did my last 350 into regal and had to do custom fit after Posten would not work. Use a bubble level on the carb base ring top with plate or sq bar and put bubble level on motor and then wiggle left / right till is level at carb, This will give best fuel flow into carb. I did a 455 into my Apollo and the regal is a pc of cake compared to this car. I have a 430 going into my 86 too, and will do all custom shim work with electra mounts. craig

[bigdawg70]

im not familiar with the poston motor mounts but since tha g-bodys didnt originallly come with a 455 most likely those mounts wont be a direct fit in like i was saying before you may have to do sum modifying to make them fit perfect and it still may be a little off if your welding them in grinding them or cutting on them shouldnt make a diff. i believ when i first put my motor in i used some modified v-6 mounts and i could never get it in perfect. i would suggets making sure that the headers you have will clear before you do any final mounting due to the fact that not all buick headers are made the same and it would be easier to make your adjustment before installing mounts permanetly

[monkeyy337]

Took your advice and test fit the headers, guess what? Neither one of them will fit no matter where the engine is placed. I bought them from a guy out in the country (and I mean country). They were in the trunk of a junk 67 Skylark and he didn't know what they fit (guess they were for a 67 Skylark). I only gave him $40.00 for them and they are brand new (at least never used) and not rusted. Guess I will look in the Poston and TA Performance catalog's tonight and see what they have for headers. Any suggestions on who has the best headers to fit a 455 into a 84 Regal? Thanks

[alec296]

ta 1 7/8 headers would be the biggest that i know fits but they hit the
control arm mount on pass side (trim some mount off)
i hear stage 2 headers fit good but you would need different heads
as far as mounts i used the stamped steel from a 72 electra

[sharkmonkey]

So... you won't be needing those headers? :Brow:

[Leviathan]

TA shorties are the easiest fit, no real work needed.

With full length from TA, expect to gring about 1/4 off the bottom of the lower control arm ont he passenger side, flatten the body seam ont he firewall, and trim the rear part of the lower control arm about 1/8.

[alec296]

i didnt have a problem with the body seam but every car is bolted different
onto the frame

[Stage1 Jeff]

I didn't have body seam issues, and I run Poston full length headers.
I can get pics if it will help

[monkeyy337]

So... you won't be needing those headers? :Brow:
They won't fit my Regal so I can't use them. At this point I don't really know what they fit only that they came out of the trunk of a junk 67 Skylark. The guy also had a switch pitch 400 transmission and some high performance (steel) 430 heads, did a 67 Skylark come with that stuff?

[bigdawg70]

Depending how far off they are and depending if you have a good a exhaust shop you could cut the tubes out that dont clear and a good exhaust could make new tubes in for somtimes a reasonable price. Im not sure who made the headers i have but i know they came out of a 65skylark and they fit very well wit no cutting i can even put a full size starter up wit no problem.

[monkeyy337]

I didn't have body seam issues, and I run Poston full length headers.
I can get pics if it will help
My best friend gave me some junk (cracked tubes, etc) Poston headers tonight that came off his 455 Regal. I will trial fit them and see how they fit and if they fit ok I will order some new ones from Poston Tuesday. I appreciate the offer of pics though. He told me the Buick community is very tight nit and any Buick guy will help another if it will help to make a Buick run faster. I have been running Chevy's for the past ten years and its not always that way. Thanks for the offer and everyone else that is trying to help me. I'm almost 60 years old and its hard for a old dog to learn new tricks.

[Leviathan]

Where are the headers contacting? Mine were a real pain to get fit in.

The 430 wasn't offered on the Skylark until 68, but the 400 was available on the GS. The Switch Pitch was around in 67 tho...

[monkeyy337]

Where are the headers contacting? Mine were a real pain to get fit in.

The 430 wasn't offered on the Skylark until 68, but the 400 was available on the GS. The Switch Pitch was around in 67 tho...
It would be easier to say where they don't contact then where they do. There not for this chassis evidently. I will probably sell them at the Buick nationals in 2007 here in Bowling Green. Someone there can probably look at them and tell me what there actually for. They weigh alot more than the (junk) Poston headers I borrowed from my friend for a test fit. They have no Numbers are any identification whatever on them. I thought I measured the tubes when I bought them (1 7/8") but they look bigger than the (junk) ones I borrowed. They even have red paint on them and I haven't seen that color on headers in many years, then usually come painted with Black paint.

[MikeM]

All I want to add is my best wishes for your project. Don't give up. I'm sure with the help you can get here you'll be able to figure it out and get that 455 stuffed in. You're not the first one to do it, nor the last. Sell the chevy engine to a chevy guy. Lets see what this big bad boy torque monster of yours can do in your G body once you get it put together.

BBB - Big Block Buick, Big Bad Boys

[alec296]

you could talk to jim at trishieldperformance
he had a regal with a 455 and did the engine for tim hol's regal
check his website trishieldperformance.com and see some of the engine packages that he has too.
i have my engine there now getting a girdle and alum ta heads
hope to clear 600 hp and should hold up for a long time
he also sponsors the v8buick site

[shamgar]

One of the things that I did when i put a 455 in my 79 regal is I lowered it in with the transmission and than bolted the transmission to the the transmission crossmember and than installed the driveshaft. when it is installed it should look like the passenger sides sits further forward than the drivers. good luck.

[v8regalowner]

ta's 2" ones will fit also but be prepared to do alot of trimming like leviathan stated. they made my swap take about 3 times as long. but im pretty happy with them now that im done. i havnt raced the car yet but it pulls a hell of alot harder then my 12 second convertable. regals with bbb are fun.

[Stage1 Jeff]

I just trimmed a bit off the control arms,and my poston headers went right in
yes, BBB regals are a helluva fun ride :)

[monkeyy337]

I just trimmed a bit off the control arms,and my poston headers went right in
yes, BBB regals are a helluva fun ride :)
Tried to order some headers from Poston and they are out of stock for six weeks. To make a long story short I'm trying to fit the new ($40.00) headers I bought from the guy out in the country. I've got the right one to fit after some trimming on control arms, etc. The left one will have to be dimpled are have one tube moved over about 1/2". I don't want to dimple it so will go to a muffler shop and have it moved over. I measured the tubes and they are 2" not 1 7/8" like I thought. Guess that 1/8 inch makes a big difference. I'm not going to give up on this pig, it will go down the track before the season ends, I hope!

[RATROASTER]

Here's a pic for ya! TA shorty Headers on the passenger side need some adjustments that can be done with a large file to your a-arm and a hammer to the header. These are tools that every caveman should have in his cave. :grin:

I'm not quite sure what cross member you are using for this project, but if you are using a Turbo 350 tranny you need the crossmember from a 200C metric tranny. There is a completely different crossmember for the 200R4, that can be used for the Turbo 400.

Oh yes it is a heck of alot easier to have your tranny and motor together and bolt your tranny bolted down to your crossmember for optimum fit for your motor. Just make sure you have the right crossmember!

Have fun! :TU:

[buickapollo455]

Can you please explain the cross over , from what car it is from on a 400 and to attach to motor on install or individual install, and use of what radiator to cool a 455, have an 86 regal. This is my next spring fun . Although here is my winter project, try a 455 skyhawk 4 speed. The use of a 68-69 water pump and pulleys will allow 1/2 inch for fit to radiator. Exhaust will be fun, but need your help for regal for spring on my 430 race motor into my 86 thanks craig

[sharkmonkey]

You need to use a crossmember from a 85-87 Regal that had a 200r4 tranny. That crossmember will bolt directly to a 400 tranny.

As for radiators, I used a 3 core out of an early 80's Olds Cutlass. I also took the fan shroud from there. You are better off with an aluminum rad but I didn't have the $$$ to go there.

[RATROASTER]

You need to use a crossmember from a 85-87 Regal that had a 200r4 tranny. That crossmember will bolt directly to a 400 tranny.

As for radiators, I used a 3 core out of an early 80's Olds Cutlass. I also took the fan shroud from there. You are better off with an aluminum rad but I didn't have the $$$ to go there.


You may also find this crossmember in like year Olds 442's and Monte Carlo SS's. Oldmobile crossmembers are favorable for racing as there are no end bushings. It is a direct mount.

There are a couple of options for radiators. I used a Summit Brand aluminum radiator and used mounting brackets from a Ford Crown Victoria. For my T-type project I bought a Modine Model 915 radiator. This radiator is a one-core aluminum rad with plastic ends used in 89 IROC 5.9 Camaro's. Its a stock fit for our Regals. I've had no cooling issues with this rad and a electric fan from a cavalier. I would recomend using this rad and a electric fan from a Lincoln Continental. Here's a pic of my engine compartment of my 455 ride with the Summit Brand rad.

[alec296]

you could use the alum radiator out of park ave,bonniville,lesaber
frt wheel drive cars 86 andup the 84-85 grand nat guys use them
alot and plentyful in scrapyard

[TaxBBBuick]

I have been working on the same project. where are you located? Make sure your have a good radiator, I think that is the reason why I have blown another motor

[Running]

I have been working on the same project. where are you located? Make sure your have a good radiator, I think that is the reason why I have blown another motor

He sold the car :(

it ran great though!

[STAGE-2 TORQUE]

I'm using Poston steel mounts, a 350 turbo transmission with stock crossmember, a bare 455 block (its easier to move around) with is connected to the transmission, driveshaft, and the 8.5 GN rearend. This is the same stuff that I used (never took out of the car) when I removed the 427 Chevy motor. The only difference is the motor mounts. The Chevy mounts of course bolted to existing holes already factory drilled in the cross member. I never checked (or had to) check the Chevy motor to see if it was straight/level. I just hammered it to 11.02 @ 124mph, sure hope this Buick will run similar or better numbers. The Buick is 250lbs lighter than the Chevy motor and of course its all front end weight.

On my 1st Buick 455 1985 Regal, I had to drill new holes. Poston (out of business for years now) lied about "the holes being in the chassis. It took me 2-days to realize THAT ... and that I also needed a "swivel" rachet (through the oblong hole already in the chassis) to assist with those 2 bolts (1 each side ... near the front of Poston's chassis mounts).:TU:

I had a 74 Buick 455, '85 then a 1987 Regal, th400 3-speed short tail, the factory TH200 tranny cross-member (I had to move it back @ 3" on the DRIVER'S side), a GN drive shaft, and a GN posi rear. Hope this helps.

Have you gotten the motor in prior to my reply?