My Ride

[dukec]

Don't see a spot for the really early cars.

So will start a new one.

This a '48 Buick Super Sedanette.

Currently powered by a '69 430. The '70 455 is on the stand and should go in later this month.

[Roberta]

WAY COOL!!:grin: :Brow:

[Smartin]

Very nice...looks chopped and shaved big time. Great car!

Adam

[DugsSin]

I just love the shape of these Sedanettes and with the split windshield it's so stylin. Would love to hear what the rest of your driveline consists of and how difficult it was to install. A Sedanette with a modern driveline and all the interior upgrades is next on my "Gotta have" list. :TU::beer :TU:

[dukec]

Thanks Roberta.

Adam - No chop / no shave. That is a stock body.

Doug - 430 T400 Front & Rear ends are from a early 70's full size Buick. Power disc brakes and streering. Soon to install a 455 (invested over $$$$) but it will have air conditioning.

This summer cruisin' with the windows up and listening to cool tunes in cooooool air conditioned comfort while able to blow the doors of those Cheebies!!!

dukec

:beer

[Chris Lott]

Very cool ride :TU:

[Marco]

W:eek2:W

Very nice! :TU:
:beer

[flynbuick]

It takes a lot to get my wife drooling over any car. She wants to know how much $$$$$?

[DugsSin]

Dukec was this car on ebay or Trader online last year? Seems one very similar from NY area was up for bids recently.

[dukec]

Doug

Not this one.

I have owned this car for almost 3 years and I know it's history for over 10 years.

It has always been a Northwest car.

dukec

[sbrmd]

Dukec: I've been dreaming about doing such a thing as your '48 for quite a while. I recently acquired a '49 Roadmaster Sedanet, and I'm wondering, could you tell us (me) in detail how you mounted the '48 body to the '70's chassis? I have been thinking about the same thing; for me, it would be a '71-'76 Electra chassis, as the wheelbase of the Roadmaster is 126", and the Electra is 127". My questions mostly center around how exactly one mates up the different body mount locations without hacking up the '49 body, and how is the mounting of the front clip handled?

Very much looking forward to your reply; just in case, my private e-mail is SBRMD@AOL.COM

DugsSin: You requested info on my '65 Sportwagon for sale a few weeks ago on a different thread, and I replied to you twice through this bulletin board system with no reply from you. Did you get those messages? If not, I am happy to send you all the info and pictures direct to your regular e-mail address, as I don't know how to attach that stuff through this system. E-mail me and I'll get the stuff right out to you. It is a great opportunity for someone, because I am m-o-t-i-v-a-t-e-d! I need the space in my garage back for the Roadmaster project! Incidently, in response to your post about it, I'm in Minneapolis, and the Sportwagon is from South Carolina by way of, ironically, New Jersey!

Sincerely,
Steve.

[dukec]

Steve

Glad you like my car. Unfortunately I did not do the frame or chassis building. It was done before I bought it.

What they did was start with a front clip and a rear clip then joined the 2 with square tubing. Then they added mounting points for the body to the fabbed up frame.

It is not the way I would have done it, but it is done.

Dukec

[BuickStreet]

Hey Dukec (?),

Contact me off the board at bill@buickstreet.com. I want to talk to you about featuring it on BuickStreet.com. Interested?

[dukec]

Thanks to David Gramlow for the info on changing my avatar. Worked great.

That is s front shot from last summer.

I will also attach a couple of shots of the new engine. Unfortunately it is still on the stand. No time to install. It only took 10 months to get it to this stage. Hope to install it around the end of March.

That is a '70 455 sf code. It has been balance, blue printed, oiling mods done, TA regulator, Comp Cam, Stage 1 stainless valves, heads have been ported and polished. It also has a B4B that has been port matched. The original air conditioning bracketry has been modified to accept a Sanden mini compressor. A Holley 870 Street Avenger is still in the box and it will be getting TA shorty headers and a HEI dist. by Dave.

This will replace a bone stock 430 that is currently in the car.

The car also has a newly rebuilt T400 tranny, power steering and brakes.

More pictures later.

[dukec]

More pictures

[dukec]

Bill - Buickstreet- I have not forgotten about you, I have been out of town more than in lately. This will be continuing for about another month, then I will get to it.

Thanks

[GSmycarsfast]

Duke, i coudnt help but to notice the valve coves on your 455. Are those chrome or polished aluminum? I was thinking about picking up a set from TA performance but not sure if that the route i want to take? Any input? By they way gret car, you got to love those old buicks i gota 57 special and shes a great car.:beer

[BuickStreet]

No probs Dukec. When you get around to it. BuickStreet.com will be around for many years to come. There will always be room for you and I have many cars on the list anyway so there is no hurry. The quality of the pics is more important than the time it takes for you to get them to me.

[dukec]

Adam Those valve covers are old Edelbrock cast aluminums. They were actually on the 430 in the car when I bought it. They have been powder coated with a bright silver and then covered witha clear gloss powder coat. Same as the Edelbrock B4B intake. Makes them almost look chromed. Those valve covers are hard to find and expensive. I saw a set at a swap meet last year that the guy wanted $150 and he would not budge. I was going to buy them for spares or trading stock. Oh well.

dukec

[69GS400s]

Very Cool ride !!

Alittle history on Edelbrock Valve Covers......

http://itnmedia.com/alan/edelvalvecover.jpg

Here's the poop on them

In 1969 Buick dealers' parts dept. carried them - you could either buy the B4b alone, or WITH the Valve Covers as a kit. As far as I know, the valve covers were not available seperately.

On the inside of the valve covers in the middle in raised letters it says "1969 BUICK"

As told to me by the original owner of my car, he went into the dealership one month after buying the '69 GS convert. to have some minor work done and saw the B4B on display. He asked what it was for, they said "To go Faster" and he siad "I want it !!" and had them install the B4B and Valve covers then and there.

I went to great pains to keep these pieces on my car as to me....they are a part of it.

Getting the valve covers to "work" with TA rollers required quite a bit of grinding in the corners with a dremel tool, as well as stacking 3 sets of Cork gaskets to get the proper clearence. The B4B required flow-matching the ports.....as it now sits ontop of a 464" ~500hp motor :)

[dukec]

ttt

With some engine pics.

New motor in.

Much done - much more to do.

[dukec]

More

[dukec]

As you can tell I am really ashamed of the old boat.
:Brow: :Brow: :cool:

Next up - new wheels and interior.

[my3buicks]

Boy, you should be!!!:TU: :3gears:

[flynbuick]

You really need a K&N so I will just take that old restrictive Star Wars cleaner off your hands. It is probably costing you almost an entire horsepower.

[dukec]

I'm going to ignore that remark about a K&N.

They are the worst thing that you could possibly do to any engine. Yes they may look cool, but the damage from them would make you shudder. And you will regret using them.

Besides I just sold a very nice Starwars cover last weekend for $150.

:mad:

[Specman]

As I have said in before. That is one bee-u-tee-ful ride.

[skyphix]

dukec said:I'm going to ignore that remark about a K&N.

They are the worst thing that you could possibly do to any engine. Yes they may look cool, but the damage from them would make you shudder. And you will regret using them.
:mad:


I love the car... and can't wait to see the future updates!


I've never had a problem with any K&N filter I've used... and I've been abusing them (winters here can get tough) for 3 years. Never used one on my Buick though... so could just be the different style?

Eric

[mechacode]

Wow, that car looks awesome. Does the hood open that way stock??

[sean Buick 76]

nice ride!

[BuickStreet]

Bill - Buickstreet- I have not forgotten about you, I have been out of town more than in lately. This will be continuing for about another month, then I will get to it.

lol...when you're ready.

[Leviathan]

Wow, that StarWars aircleaner looks right at home in there. Congrats on a great looking engine bay!

[dukec]

Bill

Sent you an email.

Clint

You're right - the Starwars really tops it all off.

It is amazing how many supposed Buick guys don't know what the Starwars is.

[Smartin]

Question:

I know what K&N can do to a modern engine with a Mass Air Flow sensor, but what harm will it do to our engines? I've never heard of anything bad that comes from using one with a carbureted big block:Do No:

[skyphix]

I know what K&N can do to a modern engine with a Mass Air Flow sensor

Enlighten me! Ive never had any problem on either of my MAF equipped cars.

Ive honestly never heard of any problems and would like to hear them so I can go buy a better filter if its serious???

[Smartin]

The oil in the K&N will clog the filaments in the MAF..

[dukec]

The whole concept of an Air Filter is to remove contamination from the incoming air used in the combustion process.

The modern paper element is a compromise between removing as much of this contamination (soot, dirt, vegetable particulant, etc.) as possible while allowing enough air (oxygen) for the proper burning of the fuel.

The whole premise of the K&N filter is that they make more power. Well, you can only make more power by either putting more fuel into the process - air filters don't do this. Or by letting more air into the process. K& N filters are less restrictive - read, not as tight - allowing more air & more and larger particles of contamination into the engine.

Yes, you can potentially make more power, but at what cost? More contamination means that you will experience a lessening of engine power because of the internal damage from the contamination. You will also experience shortened engine life. You will have to rebuild your engine sooner. You will have to spend many $$ for this rebuild.

Another premise of the K&N style, and there are many other brands out there, is that you will save money by using a cleanable filter as opposed to a new paper element. But figure the cost of a K&N - about $50-60 versus a paper element at $6-8. It will take you many years to recapture your initial cost of the K&N.

A couple of final points:

- Approximately 10,000 gallons of air for every 1 gallon of fuel.
- Standard paper elements are a minimum of 98% efficient (98% of all contamination is trapped).
- What is the efficiency rating of a K&N?

While we all want more power - what are we willing to pay for it?

[skyphix]

Here is some interesting reading regarding the subject...

http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?K%26N%20Letter%20to%20The%20Editor

Not to defend K&N or anything, just something interesting.

I could see the oil in the K&N messing with the MAF... but the paper filters I can get for the WRX suck... and my turbo wont even make as much boost with them :ball:

[Leviathan]

I'm afrtaid Ricky has his science wrong. He did very well prove that a K&N stops 99.05% ...and failed to prove what rate an OEM stops (his unproven 96% notwithstanding).

I'm not arguing either way, but we can throw that article out.

Anything meeting the SAE specs is probably OK for the engine's lifetime wear duration and particulate allowance. Contrary to popular belief, SAE isn't a bunch of idiots, and neither are the guys with 20+ years of experience picking out the parts for these cars at the factory. Us amateurs rarely know more than they do.

...now the management guys, that's a another story :laugh:

[skyphix]

Lol, I just found that quick... :grin:

So, since the K&N could clog my MAF, and I DESTROY paper filters during the winter, what are my alternatives?

I'll just run paper on the Skylark.

[Leviathan]

They make a darn fine steel mesh filter for the oilfield that has a 1 micron allowance. It's about $1500 a sq ft though....