Dick Miller 4-link suspension upgrade

[junglejim75]

Any played much with this http://www.dickmillerracing.com/4-Link_page.htm, (the 7028 kit)

I think this is the same kit I saw in a magazine article on a cool blown 71' lark (anyone here?) and am thinking about trying it on my 462 '71 lark. I have been pulling very inconsistent 1.8+ 60 footers with 12.60 @107.8 MPH. The car has a S/P 400 with only about 2200 RPM high side. It has S/S bars on it now but it just blows away the M/T ET 28x12.5's, even when they are down to 13 lbs. I called DMR and Mr Miller himself answered. He said the S/Sides twist the rear suspension too much on high torque applications and "snap" the tires loose where this 4-link wouldn't.

Any thoughts or experiences????

[Jeff Kitchen]

I've had lots of experience with this kit! Had it on two cars. First one ran mid-11's with 1.53-1.56 60' times. Second car is my current. I went low 10's with 60' times in the low 1.40's with this set-up. Bottom line, that system works good on a 12 or 11 second car. Anything below that and the short instant center created by those no-hop brackets make the car too violent. The car will hook fine on a good track, but have troubles on a so-so track. So, if your car runs low-12's or high-11's I say go for it. But make sure you have the rest of the car in order, too. Quick 60' times come from good weight distribution, good front suspension, right converter, and good set-up. And alot of try-and-adjust at the track.

Have fun.

[junglejim75]

Thanks for the feedback Jeff:TU: Did you get the springs, adjustable shocks and the rear anti roll bar too? Depending on how far you take it the kit ranges between about $1300-$2200.... Just trying to determine how much I need. Thanks Jim

[Jeff Kitchen]

No, when I bought mine, he didn't sell the springs or anti-roll bar. I have always used QA-1 adjustable shocks. They are a major factor in making the suspension work. Try the adjustments until you find settings (each side) that WORK. You probably won't end up with the same setting on each side.

I have an HR Parts anti-roll bar now. They are also a huge help. I imagine the DMR anti-roll bar works just as good. However, I think the DMR bar is weld in. Depends on what you want.

For springs, I just use the standard Skylark springs. Don't use the "extra load" springs or station wagon springs. They are too stiff and won't let the weigth transfer.