View Full Version : replacing the Rochester 2gv carb
roundzy
03-13-2003, 04:04 PM
I have a 72 Skylark 350. I finally got it started, but it is running rough, and the carburetor is looking old and doesn't seem to be in good working condition. I don't know anything about carburetors and am wondering if I should try to clean this one up, or just get a replacement. If I am to replace it, does anyone have suggestions for a good easy replacement? I was looking on the Holley site and did not know how to answer the question as to what type of intake manifold I have.
Any help and information about what I should do with this Rochester 2GV carb is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
CyberBuick
03-13-2003, 04:44 PM
Take a day off, some carb cleaner, compressed air, a set of small and wide blade screwdrivers and 1/2 wrench along with that $10-15 rebuilt kit you get from AutoZone and rebuild it yourself..
It's easier then it looks.. You'll also want a pair of long nose pliars too.
Unhook everything, throttle cable, hoses, linkage clips, etc.. Take your wrench and undo the 4 mounting bolts. Keeping the carb level, remove it to your work table. Remove the 2 screws that hold each vacuum break on. Remove the airhorn screws, making sure you remember where the long screw goes. Pull up and remove the airhorn. Grab a clean container and pour the gas into it. Keep in mind there's a checkball at the bottom of the accelerator pump well, under the spring. Find the venturi cluster assembly, the small trianglish piece held on with 3 screws. Remember which screw has the gasket on it as you don't want to mix them up. Pull up and remove the assembly. Take needle nose pliars and pull up on the T pin that you see now, go easy as it's spring loaded.. :-) Remove the T, spring and flip it over to remove the checkball. Take a suitable tool, non marring and remove the two black plastic well inserts. I usually stick a small set of needlenose pliars inside then open them up for the friction.
Now that's as far as you have to go before cleaning, but you can remove the jets and powerpiston assembly that sits next to the jets if you want. I would to be sure of thourough cleaning.
Flip the whole thing over and remove the two throttleplate retaining screws. Remove the base plate. So now you have 4 main peices.. Airhorn, Fuel Bowl, Ventui Cluster and Base.
Now, the last thing you'll want to take off before cleaning is the accelerator pump itself. This is last as you'll want to remember how it all fits.. :-) Remove the retaining clip and slide the pump out by working the assembly a bit. You don't have to remove the metal peices that hold the pump on if you don't want to unless there's a gasket present. It's optional. Also, don't forget to remove the float, hinge pin and needle seat that sits under it.
Next up, take everything that isn't plastic and give it a good cleaning or tank it. Once she looks purdy, take compressed air and blow out all the passeges everywhere. Pay attention to all the holes in the venturi cluster. Once everythings clean, dry and blown out, match up the gaskets against the old ones and start reassembly. I always verify the gaskets against the carb itself because sometimes along the line somebody screws up and puts the wrong gasket in there. Reassemble in reverse order.. Use the paper that comes with the kit for the tighening sequence of screws on the airhorn.
Make sure you test the float before you use the old one.. Bowl of hot/warm water, float at room temp, submerge the float and see if it sinks or blows bubbles.. If it does neither, and floats, reuse it.. Otherwise buy a new one..
Once it's all bolted back on, it's time to tune it.. Set the idle screws all the way in until lightly seated, then back out 2 turns.. Take a vacuum gauge and plug it into the port on the intake, then one at a time turn the screws until highest vac reading. Reset curb idle and your done.
If I've missed anything, blame my memory as that's where all this came from...
Happy Motoring!
roundzy
03-13-2003, 09:27 PM
Wow! Thanks for the excellent reply. I'm glad you spelled it all out for me and recommend rebuilding it. That seems like a real good way for me to learn about carburetors. I appreciate your taking the time to write that response.
Smartin
03-13-2003, 09:34 PM
The first carb I rebuilt was my 2bbl off the 71 350. I was 16 at the time and was totally blind to it. I did it all myself and just dove in...
no problems!:bglasses:
CyberBuick
03-14-2003, 01:58 AM
Yer welcome roundzy! It's not hard, just keep an eye out for where various things go, and dive in..
The 2bbl on my '71 was the first one I did too, didn't really care what was inside or how it went together.. Slight mistake.. LoL Least it is when you disassemble "everything"..
I tend to like Q-Jets more then 2VG's these days. Tho I did like how easy setting the float was.. :grin: Them Q-Jets, holding and turning upside down gets to be rough after awhile..
Just take your time and you'll enjoy it.. :TU:
gstewart
03-14-2003, 05:39 AM
welcome !!
might also suggest that u take a picture at each stage u remove a part, that way u will have a chronological history of how u disassembled the carb . sure can help re-assembling .
BadBrad
03-14-2003, 10:47 PM
And Roundzy,
if for reasons beyond your control you are unable to make your carb work after the rebuild, note that I have a never used NOS service replacement 2gv originally purchased for a '70 Skylark 350 automatic gathering dust in my attic complete with original box, etc.
roundzy
03-15-2003, 04:26 PM
Thanks for the backup plan!! I'll keep you in mind.
68 Skylark cust
05-18-2011, 07:14 PM
How and where to buy a rebuild kit for a Rochester 2GV ?
Never done that before .... on a scale of 10 how complicated is it :confused:
I feel a little nervous but ready to give it a shot .
After the rebuild could you just plug and play and adjust the idle screw ?? Or any particular things to watch ... ?
68 Skylark cust
05-18-2011, 07:22 PM
It's easier then it looks.. You'll also want a pair of long nose pliars too.
Unhook everything, throttle cable, hoses, linkage clips, etc..
Take a vacuum gauge and plug it into the port on the intake, then one at a time turn the screws until highest vac reading. Reset curb idle and your done.
If I've missed anything, blame my memory as that's where all this came from...
Happy Motoring!
Hi , I just didn't get the part in red ... (english is my second language) .
After you put back the carb in place and "hook" everything in place (hose,linkage,cable,etc..) is it finish (except for the tuning) ?
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