View Full Version : Trunk Floor Replacement
RACEBUICKS
05-09-2008, 09:29 AM
This 67 Convertible needs a trunk floor and 1/4s. So to get this project started we got a 3 peice trunk floor sent to us. And on ebay the 1/4s that some guy is hand bending were shipped in. My opinion on the 1/4s are, dont buy these unless you have NOTHING else. They are going to take tons of work to fit. They are usable but not without alot of fitting.
We first had soda blasted the 1/4s so that we can see the extent of the previous work done on the car. Make no mistake very few cars look any better than this on the sides. I have never stripped a car that didnt have multiple layers of body filler in it.
Here are a few shots of the very beginnings, taken apart soda blasting and getting the old trunk floor cut out of the way to repair all the inner wheel houses and anything else that cant be repaired once the floor is in place.
I will post some more shots of the progress so that everyone can see what it takes to do these correctly. I think pictures will also tell the whole tale of the tape on how much it takes to make a floor stay in place for years to come. I will do my best to keep this updated as we go. enjoy:TU:
ubushaus
05-09-2008, 09:39 AM
Great start! Do keep this post going. I see all of this in my future!
65specialconver
05-09-2008, 09:40 AM
so is a salvaged solid trunk floor more desirable than the 3 piece panels? at one time i had a local guy look at my rotted trunk & was happy to see i had a salved one to use,because of the bracing tabs still attatched.if so,i'd better go take it back from him for future use:laugh:
RACEBUICKS
05-09-2008, 09:54 AM
so is a salvaged solid trunk floor more desirable than the 3 piece panels? at one time i had a local guy look at my rotted trunk & was happy to see i had a salved one to use,because of the bracing tabs still attatched.if so,i'd better go take it back from him for future use:laugh:
Sometimes those are good. But some of the salvaged parts I have used needed work as well. Overall the rust free salvage parts are better. (if you can find them)
RACEBUICKS
05-23-2008, 08:38 AM
Well as we have disected the trunk out of the car now, we also had to repair any of the inner wheel house sections so that the trunk floor has to be attached too. Installing the floor isnt that hard its all the details that need to be repaired around it so that it can be solid when done. We spot welded the braces on the floor like the factory did, then plug welded the rest. The spot welds take way less work and look more original, but the machine only reaches so far. More pictures to come.
what is soda blasting would like to know about this going to start second 67 skylark this summer thanks geno
RACEBUICKS
05-23-2008, 05:15 PM
There are several types of media used for blasting. Its like baking soda and its more enviromentally safe. Cleans the paint off but the rust has to be sand blasted to remove.
GS Spoken Here
05-23-2008, 07:03 PM
Mike looks like some nice work. Are you going to fix the side frame body mount hole or put a whole new one on? I been down the quarter/trunk repair on a 67 conv and used a 67 rust free complete rear clip from a 4 door and had very good results but the person that did it was a very good old time body person. Thanks Bill.
RACEBUICKS
05-23-2008, 10:04 PM
The frame is already redone somewhere else. I dont have to fix this one...
wkillgs
05-23-2008, 10:32 PM
Mike, who manufactured the replacement trunk floor, and how well does it fit?
I understand Chevelles are shorter in the rear than the other A-bodys.....is this a chev repo, GTO, or are they all the same?
I'll be doing a '66 trunk someday....
Thanks for sharing, it'll come in handy!
GS-XNR
05-24-2008, 10:50 AM
I guess I'll chime in here. This is my car that Mike is working on. I haven't seen the car yet, but Mike is keeping me current with many photos and very good descriptions. He is great to work with.
To answer the question about the trunk pan, the ones for a Chevelle are shorter. BOP use the same floor plan. There are several on the market priced anywhere from $200 - $300. This kit is a 3 piece and came with the trunk braces and fuel tank braces. I bought it from Tamraz on ebay.
I'm waiting for mounts to arrive so that Mike can continue with the floor. Should be next week Mike!
Harvey
ricknmel67
05-24-2008, 11:48 AM
Mike, I'm curious to see what you do about the fact that the quarter panel chrome pieces are about 2" too long for the repro quarter panel wheel openings. (as you show in your first batch of pictures)
I used those same junk quarters on my convertible and ran into the same thing.
I ended up using a "bad" set of rear wheelwell chrome and cutting it shorter to fit the quarter. (I just couldn't get myself to cut up a "nice" piece)
Nobody but a Buick expert would ever notice.... and even then they would probably only notice if mine was sitting right beside a correct original.
Just curious what would be the right way to do it.
RACEBUICKS
05-24-2008, 06:16 PM
.
Just curious what would be the right way to do it.
We have every intention of using the aftermarket 1/4s but when it comes to the shorter part we will slice them up and make our own insert by hand to make the 1/4 to look correct. Let me make this clear for anyone reading this.......When using aftermarket body parts you can not rely on them to be perfect. Use them as you see fit. Use them to be the best repair for your car. What I mean is, if you need only 5-6 inches to fix the rust, Use just that amount. YOu are not required to use the entire panel. You only use what the car needs and what will be the best repair for the car. And sometimes that means not using and entire panel. I have paid for full 1/4 panels and only used 5 -7 inches of it and thats all. Once again....Use them as you see fit. Use them to be the best repair for your car.You only use what the car needs and what will be the best repair for the car. And sometimes that means not using and entire panel.
I know it seems like a waste but if you cut off a full 1/4 and install the AM one. You can come back in say 10 years and do it again. At that time you will need a rolling rear clip. I will be posting pictures of the 1/4 installation very soon. That will show what I mean. Thanks for looking. :laugh:
THe trunk floor was a very nice peice by the way. Fit was very good.
sd-slider
11-28-2010, 06:09 PM
More pictures to come.
I know it's been a few years....but, are there any finished pics?
I am at the exact point where you left off an I am curious to see how you finished off the front and rear lip of the new pan that overlapped the existing steel.
Any pics would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric
RACEBUICKS
11-29-2010, 08:38 AM
I only have these shots left
ubushaus
11-29-2010, 09:21 AM
Hey Mike,
Since then have you tried the one piece trunk floors, and do you recommend them? I am guessing ease is obvious, but what about fit?
RACEBUICKS
11-29-2010, 09:36 AM
Getting them into the location for welding is the biggest challenge. I like the 3 piece ones because you can just cut out a section at a time to install them. If you cut out too much you loose the rigidity of the body and could end up welding it up in the wrong location. done both types but if I have a choice its the piece together ones for me.
sd-slider
11-29-2010, 09:26 PM
I only have these shots left
Thanks!
I had all of the pieces laid in for the initial fit and it looks like I'll be banging on the corners and such to get a decent fit.
=Eric
RACEBUICKS
11-29-2010, 09:31 PM
we install the braces first then fit the other parts into the floor. trim them out then drop them in....
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.