Top Motor Fries Fuse

[12 Volt Man]

Well, the top went down today and never made it back up. After frying a few 20A fuses, I discovered the only way to get the top back up is to put in a 25A, push up the rpms - pushing the volts to around 14V - and even then it toasts a fuse.
Does this sound like a short? If so, I can't find one.
Motor going bad? Not with it hgets enough juice...
12V Man is having some 12V probs. :mad:
I'm stuck on this and hope someone out there has experineced the same thing and there's a way out of this mess.
Thanks, RR.

[flynbuick]

It is the current that is being drawn that is the issue not the voltage. On a 12 volt system I think 14 is within spec.

Additional resistance to the motor turning and reeling in the top will cause more current to be drawn---until the design limit for the circuit is exceeded. So I would check the lube and rigging for the top for freedom of movement. (I am assuming the hydraulic fluid level is topped off)

[gstewart]

u guys may want to seach older threads as there was a great thread about mods to save your switches . maybe jim weise was the provide of a solution . not sure .

[12 Volt Man]

gstewart said:u guys may want to seach older threads as there was a great thread about mods to save your switches . maybe jim weise was the provide of a solution . not sure .

I did see that thread before, but I don't think the relay's ready yet.

[tlivingd]

if you can give me 3 weeks to finish school I can design you new wiring to save your top switch and use relays to handle the top up down.

Nate

[12 Volt Man]

Killer. please PM me when you're ready to start and I'll send you out some $$ for your time and trouble.

[tlivingd]

although how is your wiring from your switch?

I can design it one way to run a new wire from the battery.
and not hurt the old wiring harness. and i would use the current harness as a low amprage line to power the relays

the other splices early in your wiring harness. and uses the existing wire for the high power.


Nate

[12 Volt Man]

flynbuick said:It is the current that is being drawn that is the issue not the voltage. On a 12 volt system I think 14 is within spec.

Additional resistance to the motor turning and reeling in the top will cause more current to be drawn---until the design limit for the circuit is exceeded. So I would check the lube and rigging for the top for freedom of movement. (I am assuming the hydraulic fluid level is topped off)

Fluid level was a little low. I topped it off, but only to discover that now it burns a fuse on the way up AND the way down.

I can still get the top up and down by increasing RPMs - but it burns a fuse each time, each way.

[tlivingd]

this maybe a dumb question but have any of you oiled the hinge points of your top? there are about 30 of them or so.... it could make a huge diffrence.


also the previous owner of mine put in a self resetting breaker. though I have yet to trip it.

Nate

also check the rods for the pistons to make sure there smooth.

Nate

[flynbuick]

As I stated above I concur with Nate the rigging and freedom of movement of the top is to be checked first. Then I would check the grounds in the circuit that supplies current to the top motor. If they are compromised the circuit will act as if you have added a resistor in series with the voltage supply-- which is what you are describing as observed.

[12 Volt Man]

Grounds check out. Rods and pistons are clear.
I oiled the hinges and it went up once or twice before blowing the final 20A fuse I had left.
Just to get it back up - I snapped in a 25A and - knock on wood - it's moving up and down with ease and not blowing the fuse.
Although it's a band-aid fix, I'll stick with the 25 until I can get this resolved.
Thanks for all you help so far, guys.