Stripped carb. fitting

[70 Skylark Conv]

Need any and all ideas on how to fix a stripped 1" fuel line fitting that goes into my stock Q-Jet. The fitting AND the carb threads appear to be stripped. Tried teflon tape but no luck. Still leaks. What other ideas does anyone have?

Thanks!
Dee

[68 LeSabre 4dr]

Dee, I would start by trying a good local auto parts . See what they have to offer ya.:TU: :TU:

[baking]

There is a self-tapping oversize fitting made for the inlet repair. I picked one up at Napa a few years ago. About $10 I think.

[Carl Rychlik]

I have a kit made by Helicoil that is made just for repairing Quadrajet carbs.I know at the time it cost a considerable amount of money,but when you have a rare carb to save,it is sure worth it. I still have quite a bit of Helicoil inserts,so if you are interested,I can repair it for you.

[70 Skylark Conv]

Carl Rychlik said:I have a kit made by Helicoil that is made just for repairing Quadrajet carbs.I know at the time it cost a considerable amount of money,but when you have a rare carb to save,it is sure worth it. I still have quite a bit of Helicoil inserts,so if you are interested,I can repair it for you.

I put the oversize fitting into the carb with tape and it still leaks a little but doesn't drip. Can you still Helicoil it even though I've used the oversized fitting? My last resort is to pull the carb off my GS engine, clean it up and see how it works. How much are we talking for repair?

Thanks
Dee

[dcm422]

Carl Ole Buddy,
We need to talk. :Brow: Have the same problem with a 71 carb I have.
You've been holding out on me there pal as I asked this question in another thread. :grin: Just kidding here.
Wanted to find the heli-coil kit and fix the carb.

Thanks,
Mark

[Chris Cornett]

A Helicoil is the only real way to fix it but, if you can find one of the old expanding O-ring type repair inlets it will do the trick. The threads on my brothers carb were wiped out completely and the O-ring inlet stopped it from leaking.

[Carl Rychlik]

No problem guys(and girls).I'll be happy to help.This is the only real way to fix this problem. No leaks and everything looks like it did before the fitting stripped.Bring the carb with you at the picnic,Mark. If you're still interested in getting your carb repaired Dee,you can send it to me and I'd be glad to repair it for you.

Let me know guys.:)

[70 Skylark Conv]

Carl Rychlik said:No problem guys.I'll be happy to help.This is the only real way to fix this problem. No leaks and everything looks like it did before the fitting stripped.Bring the carb with you at the picnic,Mark. If you're still interested in getting your carb repaired Dee,you can send it to me and I'd be glad to repair it for you.

Let me know guys.:)

It's still leaking, but driveable. If I had another carb. to stick on it, I'd probably think about getting it fixed, but can't right now because I've started another project on it I've got to finish first. Thank you for the offer. I may take you up on it after I get my interior back in. Just got to keep it driveable right now.

Thanks!!!
Dee

[Carl Rychlik]

You are welcome!:grin: :TU:

[David Butts]

70 Skylark Conv said:It's still leaking, but driveable. If I had another carb. to stick on it, I'd probably think about getting it fixed, but can't right now because I've started another project on it I've got to finish first. Thank you for the offer. I may take you up on it after I get my interior back in. Just got to keep it driveable right now.

Thanks!!!
Dee

WHOA right there. There is no thing such as its still leaking but driveable. I'll give you two guys names who had their buicks burn to the ground because of fuel leaks at the carb, fuel line area. All you need for fire is 1. air, its all around it. 2. fuel, Enough said. 3. Ignition. uh huh your distributor and plug wires are right there on that one too.

I cannot stress how important it is to correctly repair the problem before the car is driven. Napa still sells the thread inserts and you could check to see if there are any carb shops in your area, they will have expertise in that problem but for now Please use your back up carb and do yourself and us a favor. Dont drive it till its fixed.

Our beloved buicks will be extinct eventually so we dont need to hurry them along with a little flame job:stmad: :Comp: :Dou:

[GSElis]

This things worked for me.
I don´t recommended it, but here in Sweden, carbs and parts is expensive..

The threads was gone inside the 1" fuel line fitting, but all the treads is not used inside.

The threads in the deepest parts of the inlet was as new.
Perfect! i cut off 3/8" of the inlet and then i carefully turn in a brand new fitting.
With a very little of the "red silicone" on the middle
of the threads.

Voila! The new fitting was using the deepest threads inside the carb.

But don´t use TOO much power when you turn it in.
Don´t do anything with the carb in 3 days.

And DON´T forget to use the second wrench when you are putting in the next fitting, else it´s loose again.

This was done 1981 and today....? No leaks, only
one problem, i can´t change the fuel filter inside the fitting.
I have to use another filter on the fuel line.
But I can live with that.

And the silicone was the "red, heat resistent".
Hard to find here in Sweden, but it really works!
____
Elis

[70 Skylark Conv]

David Butts said:WHOA right there. There is no thing such as its still leaking but driveable. I'll give you two guys names who had their buicks burn to the ground because of fuel leaks at the carb, fuel line area. All you need for fire is 1. air, its all around it. 2. fuel, Enough said. 3. Ignition. uh huh your distributor and plug wires are right there on that one too.

I cannot stress how important it is to correctly repair the problem before the car is driven. Napa still sells the thread inserts and you could check to see if there are any carb shops in your area, they will have expertise in that problem but for now Please use your back up carb and do yourself and us a favor. Dont drive it till its fixed.

Our beloved buicks will be extinct eventually so we dont need to hurry them along with a little flame job:stmad: :Comp: :Dou:

Yes, I know, I know. I have beaten myself up over this for years now :spank: and have tried lots of different fixes. Driveable = the car runs without being able to smell the gas. :Dou: (Just kidding-I know better.) The other carb has been sitting for 15 years and is full of dirt. I've seen carbs rebuilt lots of times, but don't want to attempt this carb. myself because it's my original GS carb. There are no good carb shops (or ANY that I know of) around here to take my convertible's carb to and am very leary of sending it out anywhere. The NAPA boys here didn't have anything but the oversized fitting, so if anyone knows the part number for thread inserts, believe me, I'll try that route too.

Also, all the threads are stripped, not just at the start of the connection. That's why I don't take my car in anywhere, even for something simple just because I don't have time to do it. I didn't strip it out, the shop did it years ago. :gt:

Yes, I am quite guilty of driving just a little bit with a fuel leak (not a bad one though). But a leak is a leak I know, so I'll take my punishment. :spank: :moonu: Gotta give me credit that I'm trying to fix it though!! :grin: I have a very deep love for Skylarks/GS's and don't want to do anything to hurt my baby (car). :Dou: Already lost one to a drunk driver (probably just had a little bit to drink) and don't want to loose another due to MY ignorance. :blast:


Dee

[Dan Healey]

I removed the filter and epoxied it in place. :shock: Then cut the fuel line and install an in-line filter. Cheap, fast and you won't have to to worry about it leaking again. Certainly a lot easier to change the filter in the future, but you will not have the original "look". :Do No:

[70 Skylark Conv]

Think I'm gonna JB Weld it in place since I went ahead and put an in-line filter on it. Like things done right but $$$ hold us back sometimes.

Thanks! :beer
Dee