Anti-roll Bar

[Robsbuick]

Anyone using Dick Miller Anti-roll Bar, or similar set-up?
Looking for pics.

[offbrand Racing]

Rob,

Todd Miller, board name toddsgs, is running one w/ BFG drag radial in the 10.50 range with full exhaust. He tried to post seveal pics for me but they came out to dark.

[Robsbuick]

Thanks
I will try to contact him

[Shayne Dillinge]

I'm using a piece from Wolfe Racecraft. No pic's but you can get some info at their web site: www.wolferacecraft.com

Totaly changed my car. I would recommend an anti-roll bar on anything in the 11's or quicker. It really leveled up my front end when lauching and needs very little preload. I went from having 6 inches of air under my left front to having 4 inches of air under both front tires. An added benefit was added stability past the traps under hard braking.

Good luck

[Robsbuick]

Thanks for the info, the site offered a lot of information.:beer

[Bruce Hunter]

HRpartsNstuff, in kent ohio is in the process a producing a bolt on style, anti-roll bar. most others are weld in types.
Shaynes car did improve dramatically sfter the install of the wolferacecraft bar. I 'm waiting for my bar now from Paul Ferry(HRpartsNstuff)

Bruce

[Robsbuick]

Thanks Bruce
I am in the process of manufacturing my own right now. I will post some pics in a week or so when it is complete.

Rob

[Robsbuick]

Just installed an anti-roll bar that i manufactured myself. I will get a chance this weekend to try it out. I will post the results.

[Robsbuick]

pic 2

[Robsbuick]

pic 3

[65Lark]

what is the bar size? Diameter and wall thickness that you used? I just got all my stuf from Wolfe Racecraft, so I can meassure for comparison for you.

[Robsbuick]

1 1/4" dia 4130 w/ .094 wall.

[Shayne Dillinge]

Rob,

Double check that tubing size, it seems pretty thin. I'm not saying it's too thin or anything because I'm no expert. My Wolfe bar is 1 1/4" with a .375" wall. Maybe mine is overkill. It sure works though.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Robsbuick]

thanks for the concern, I believe that .094 wall chrome moly should be thick enough. I will be checking it for twist periodically.
I will find out this weekend.

[Bobb Makley]

The anti roll bar I made for my car is made of 1/4 wall chrome moly. I spoke to one of the guys at PRI about their bar and told him what my car was doing with d2 axle steel and he told me all could be corrected with 1/4 wall anything smaller would flex to much in a heavy high HP car. so that is what I did and it appears to be much better than before.

[MikeM]

Realizing this is a juvenile remark, but here it comes anyway.

I like the idea of an anti-roll bar as opposed to a roll bar. An oz of prevention is worth a pound of cure, as somebody's mother once said.


How is this different than a roll bar that is intended to keep you alive after a roll? Obviously I'd prefer to stay straight up versus rolling over in the first place. One of my projects is to get the front end of the 72 in my av off the ground.

[Robsbuick]

Mike,
The Anti-roll bar we are talking about is the bar installed between the "roll cage" which is attached to the rear end, and desinged to limit the amount of twist in the car on a launch keeping equal load on both rear wheels rather than most of it on the right rear.
Hope I explained that right.:Smarty:

[Jim Weise]

Mike..

To further clarify, here is the anti-roll bar in the Tube Chassis GS we built here at the shop.

It's the bar mounted above the rear at the very top of this picture, between the frame rails, with the alumium arms and links that go to the rear end housing brackets.


JW

[Robsbuick]

Well I got to try my anti-roll bar yesterday, and the verdict is.......WOW!!!!. The car launched straight and even. Consistant 60' times between 1.53-1.55. So far so good.:TU:

[D STAGE 2 455]

Your car leaves very nice now Rob, very good job with the rear sway bar setup!

[offbrand Racing]

Bruce,


How did that HRpartsNstuff anti-roll bar work? What are you thoughts on it verus one that attaches to the roll bar, like Wolfcraft?

Thanks,

[Bruce Hunter]

Jim, the hrPartsnStuff bar is not yet in my car but should be ready this week. HR's bar is a bolt in style and requires no welding.
the Wolferacecraft bar is a weld in piece, though it doe not attatch to the roll bar, it is welded in between the frame rails and attaches to the rear axle.
the won like Robs and Bobb's is welded to the roll bar inside the trunk, which is the best? I don't really know. but they are based on the same principal, just a little change in design i suppose.
I will be installing HR's bolt in piece and report the results as soon as possible, I like the fact that it can be bolted in fairly easy, they have been testing this bar with very good results on a chevelle, and a few turbo cars as far as I know there just finishing the details of this system and getting ready to ship them out.


Bruce

[Robsbuick]

The only reason i installed mine in the trunk was because clearance issues with stock gas tank and exhaust system.

[BQUICK]

I have the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar on mine and it leaves level. 1.41 60 ft. I now need to get more weight transfer by getting rid of the Southside bars.
This is a very nice product and is easy to install.

I spun REAL bad in elims at Etown this weekend but the track was not being maintained very well.
Also, one guy ahead of me did his burnout BEHIND the water then burned thru it!

Bruce

[Skyhawk]

The track conditions weren't that bad! A bad racer can get down a good track but a good racer can get down a bad track. Dave Saye with the clone GSX ran better this weekend then we ever did with the 850 Holley. 10:74 @ 125 with a motor with over 725 runs. That motor is amazing since the pistons and bottom end was done back in 1981. Scotty from PG did rings and bearings back in 1995 I believe with some head work and since then over 725 runs!! Best run we ever had was at Cecil thru the exhaust with the Dominator was a 10:66 @125.

[Robsbuick]

I am with you John, best 60' ever 1.51 w/ a 10.97 ET @ 120 MPH.:TU:

[BQUICK]

It was bad when I went down in elims. I'm just saying they didn't clean it after a spill or whatever that well.
When you hook perfectly on the first two runs then go sideways on the third there is a problem.
I've been spoiled lately running the NMCA and PRO Edelbrock races at Cecil, Pittsburgh, Maple Grove and of course Norwalk had fine traction.
Rick Miller wasn't hooking consistently either.

What was with that Olds guy starting his burnout BEHIND the water?????

Very fine event nonetheless, John!!

Bruce

[BQUICK]

John
Is that Scotty's old motor from the Electra in Dave's "GSX"?

I remember seeing it run 11.50s on spray at the Nats....what like 1984?

Bruce
10.29/129
stock rods and a bad racer:pp

[Butch]

robsbuick, i really like the set up that you just installed. i need a anti roll set up for my ride and i like the idea that you could keep the tail pipes. i have a terrible problem with body roll and was told by a member on rop (scott smith) that you buick guys have a grip on this and that maybe i could get some soild help here.
any info that you folks would be willing to share with me would be gratefull.

I have a few questions i would like to ask you guys if its ok
Butch

[Skyhawk]

Bruce that motor is the original motor out of my 73 Stage 1 4 speed car but we put 71 heads in place of the 1973

[Scott_Smith]

Jim Weise,

I was wondering if those aluminum arms are splined or bolted?

[Jim Weise]

They are bolted.

JW

[Scott_Smith]

Jim,
You have a nice looking chassis there and I would strongly recomend you loose the aluminum arms for some weld on steel arms.
Those aluminum arms will never be tight enough even from day one. And after that they will only get looser.
The only aluminum arms that are currently working well are on the 4 link dragsters and they have large splines.

Just trying to save you some grief while you can still make changes.

I dug up a picture of a C/M setup.

http://69.1.17.230/test/antiroll.jpg

[Scott_Smith]

http://69.1.17.230/test/antiroll2.jpg

[Bruce Hunter]

I installed the HRpartsNstuff anti roll bar with the help of the owner and his brother paul and chris ferry, last weds evening, and made the trek to Indiana for the Midwest Buick Challenge.
I set the bar as Paul and his friend Dave England recomended, and set of for the staging lanes, all I can say is WOW!!! the car squatted downnice and even, the front wheels about 4-5 inches off the ground, and absolutely dead straight launch! every pass!!
This is a bolt on system that can be done in a couple hours, they even supply the drill bit and all needed hardware, so you could actually bring a drill to the track with a tape measure and marker and install it in the pits.
HRpartsNstuff has put a ton of time and engineering into this project, and it clearly shows in the abillity to stop the car from twisting so violently at the starting line.
congratualtions to Paul and HRpartsNstuff for a top notch product.

Bruce

[sailbrd]

Bruce,
How does this work on the street?

[Bruce Hunter]

Doug, probably a question for HRpartsNstuff, as my car is set up for the strip moreso than the street, I do a little street driving from time to time , however not yet with the bar. I would assume it takes out almost all body roll.

Bruce

[BQUICK]

I drive mine on the street....no problem. Handles alot better.

One thing I'm noticing is that the bar seems to be trying to shift in the poly mounts toward the driver side after 10 runs and 20 miles of street. Trying to contact Paul about it.

I'm thinking of possibly drilling the bar and putting a bolt thru with a washer to keep it from trying to shift and also keep it properly aligned with the vertical "heim" joints.

Bruce W.

[Butch]

do you have a phone # or web address for HRpartsNstuff. sounds like a sweet set up.
thanks butch

[Bruce Hunter]

Butch, www.HRpartsNstuff.com phone# 330-678-0899
owner is Paul Ferry.

Bruce

[Robsbuick]

Looks nice, but big $$$$ for what it is. Then again isn't everything.

[Bruce Hunter]

Robsbuick, I agree it's pricey, but what it does for the average racer is far more the value than what it would cost to dial in your car from race to race, this is a bolt on system, and you get emediate results. Just my .02 worth, Paul has become a good friend of mine in the past year, and when better products are built , I will promote them. I appluad your effort to build your own anti roll bar, and it seems to work well, congrats to your efforts!. I purchased the HRpartsNstuff bar becuase of its simplicity and the ease of installation. and the fact that I will probably return the car to local duty
in the next year or so.

Bruce

[Buick]

I think I understand how these things work, keeping the pass. tire "pushed" onto the track, but doesn't the creation of an additional pivot point create bind? :Do No: I know the advertising specifically states it will not bind the suspension, so I must not have the right understanding of how these puppies work. It would seem that that 3rd set of links would make the car "unsprung" if you will...

I can visualize and build stuff, but I've never been able to figure out rear-end geometry :moonu: (no not that kind of rear) in motion. Sigh
:ball:


Hey Bruce (H.), I wish I had more time to talk at the Midwest Challenge. How did your 60 fts., ET, and MPH fare after you installed the bar?

Ramin

[Todd Borland]

Well, My HR bar came today YEEEEEE HAAAAAA !!!!!!:laugh: I will be installing it this week and going racing on Sunday so I will post my results. Anyone want to join me at Scribner Ne. on Sunday ?

[offbrand Racing]

Todd,

How did your new sway bar workout?

[BQUICK]

Hey Bruce H.
Did you get your pics from Cecil up on HRPARTSNSTUFF site?
I couldn't find em.

Do you know if Paul got some shots of mine? My son said it was pulling both tires about 6 inches but I haven't seen a pic to prove it.

I'm very happy with it! My reaction times are now more consistant due I believe to smoother more consistant rollout and just coming out straighter.

Bruce

[Bruce Hunter]

Bruce W, no I don't think Paul has updated his website yet, and your car should be the one to show off the ability of this bar for all to see, I have been very happy with what Paul has supplied me, And will be heading to the GSCA Georgia (reynolds) meet to give the ole' swaybar another test.
I was very happy with the luanches at cecil, straight and true, no complaints whatso ever.

Bruce Hunter

[grant455gs]

This thread is some REALLY good reading gentlemen! Very, very informative!:TU:

I have a question though, for those of you using the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar. I am questioning the rigidity (strength) of the crossmember, where the bar is mounted. Are you guys experiencing any problems in this area at all? Or does it have to be specially braced/reinforced?

thanks!

[grant455gs]

Is anyone still able to run TA's 3" tailpipes thru after installing either http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/ or http://www.wolferacecraft.com/ bars?

[Robsbuick]

Jeff,
If you look back on the first page, you can see that the anti-roll bar I installed in the trunk, allows you to keep the stock gas tank, as well as running 3" exhaust without any problems.

Rob

[Paul Ferry]

Thanks guys for the great feedback!

For those that are not familiar with our new anti-roll setup, we have info on our site under the PRODUCTS section, bottom of the second column. We have similar info/pics in our catalog as well. Just e-mail us with your name & mailing address & it's free for US 48 states.

This system is VERY street friendly. It takes out practically all body roll, swaying, and that "sloshy" feeling taking corners. With it installed, you instantly go to a feel like a slot car or Indy car. If you change lanes at 70 mph, it does it instantly, with no swaying/control/sloppy feeling at all. Normal turns on the twisties is VERY controlled feeling, usually allowing 10-20 MPH faster driving & feeling more controlled (Not recommended for legal/safty reasons, just passing on feedback from customers).

It simply bolts into place (approx 2 hrs with simple tools) and allows dual 3.5" exhaust, doesn't come near the gas tank, and can be taken to another car with ease if the time comes to get a new car. It also has a nice "stock-appearing" look to it, which people find out real quick doesn't work anything like the stocker :grin:

These "anti-roll" systems naturally increase resistance/bind from their general operation & design. On the weld-in styles, if it isn't lined up perfectly, it will bind & slow the 60ft time. It is also too rigid & metal to metal (with clearances) contact. This adds road noise and vibrations as well. We decided to get away from the weld-in style for those reasons & a few more. Using HD Poly in the mounts, it allows the bar to move freely even under the most extreme loads. It's plenty stiff enough for 4000# + cars with 1500+ HP levels. We found on 3800# car & approx 750 HP, it flexes only .040" (40 thousandths or just over 1/32") on the launch with wheels in the air, using a T-brake. This may sound trivial, but that much movement would bind & either slow up 60ft times or not get the benefits of being able to launch harder. It would be level either way, but not faster. Our setup compared to others is usually the same or better 60 ft time because it doesn't bind. Because it evens traction out to both tires, it helps keep the car consistant & not "fall-off" when the track gets slippery & others slow down. MUCH better in MANY aspects, but not like a 200HP NOS kit :) Actually it's about as dramatic change as that, just not all in the E.T. dept. It's designed to help you run quick more often or win more often, rather than just go faster. If you are holding back on the launch because it seems the car (or track) can't handle it, this allows you to put it on "kill" & let it rip.

PS- We fixed Bruce's issue with the bar sliding side to side. The brackets were positioned just slightly inboard too far, allowing movement. Simply widening them took the extra clearance away & kept it in place. He did a VERY good job installing it without any instructions! We didn't have them ready in time for his install (my fault) which made it a bit harder. We now have 3 pages of very detailed instructions so a teenager could do it with ease. Now if I can just build them quicker :rolleyes:
Speaking of... Back to it :(
Hope that helped answer some questions.
Also, no time to update web yet with pics, and didn't get any real good ones from Cecil. Anyone with good pics, please send original files (if possible) to me so I can get them on the website.
Thanks-

[grant455gs]

Robsbuick said:Jeff,
If you look back on the first page, you can see that the anti-roll bar I installed in the trunk, allows you to keep the stock gas tank, as well as running 3" exhaust without any problems.

Rob

It cool Rob, I've been following along. Your bar looks.. um.. very professional. What do you do for a living? Where did you source your parts from? Or is that the Wolfe bar installed "right side UP"? This is very important to me so sorry for all the questions.

I decided to stay with the stock fuel tank with a sump kit, so all of the fuel system stuff is behind the tank. The exhaust system is TA 3" with Walker super turbos. I had problems with the tailpipes wanting to hit everything if they weren't twisted just right! The back edge of the turbos is right even with the u-joint. There is very little room in there, hence my concerns on spending many hundreds of dollars.

[Robsbuick]

Jeff,
The only thing I bought was the chrome-moly tube for the torsion bar, and the rod ends. Everything else I machined from solid material.

[Robsbuick]

BEFORE

[Robsbuick]

AFTER

[71GS455]

After reading this thread, I'm thinking that the picture I took of Jerry's Buick (gotbuick) would make another good "before" picture!

[71GS455]

In the picture above, I'm pretty flush with the surface of the hood. That would be fine if I were at ground level, but I was standing on the top of the bleachers at the track, looking downward. It should pull that gap out of the left rear wheel well too.

[Robsbuick]

Steve,
Is Jerry using No-Hop bars? The way the ass-end of his car is lifting, it looks like he is. I have no luck with those.

Rob

[grant455gs]

Robsbuick said:Jeff,
The only thing I bought was the chrome-moly tube for the torsion bar, and the rod ends. Everything else I machined from solid material.

Rob, I am impressed! So you are saying that unless I do this in the trunk area, neither of these bars will fit in my case??

I really am leaning towards the Wolfe setup. I'm not skeered of welding at all. Plus the cost of the HRPartsnStuff bolt-on bar ($459) + the additional parts that I need; upper control arms ($309) and lower control arms ($229); will run me a total of $997. I can buy the entire setup AND upper and lower control arms from Wolfe ($750). I really want to upgrade my control arms from the stock uppers and Southside lowers.

Is the Wolfe kit a poser, for real, only for race cars with no gas tank or exhaust, what?

:Do No: :Do No: :Do No: :confused: :confused:

[71GS455]

Robsbuick said:Steve,
Is Jerry using No-Hop bars? The way the ass-end of his car is lifting, it looks like he is. I have no luck with those.

Rob

Hey Rob,

I was just rereading his post on the last race of the year (where that photo came from), and he has the Lakewood no-hop bars on it along with 25 psi in the right bag.

I'm also following this thread pretty closely as I'm trying to set forth a plan for my next project (coming to a garage near me soon). I want it to launch very straight and consistent, and it looks like most of what's needed is in this thread. I won't be running that quick at the beginning, but I want it to be consistent for brackets. But as time goes by and the wallet allows quicker ET's, I don't want to have to go through the suspension over again to handle it.

[Robsbuick]

I am not saying that the other bars "won't" clear everything, all I am saying is that, the set-up I have "does" clear. I got the idea of mounting mine in the trunk from Dick Miller Racing. I just made my own, because I could not did deep enough in my pockets to spend $400+ for a kit.
From what i saw from Wolfe Craft, thier kit welds to the frame right where the gas tank is, so a fuel cell is needed.
If you are not afraid of welding, then just box your stock lowers, and just buy adjustable uppers.
Rob

[grant455gs]

Robsbuick said:
From what i saw from Wolfe Craft, thier kit welds to the frame right where the gas tank is, so a fuel cell is needed.
If you are not afraid of welding, then just box your stock lowers, and just buy adjustable uppers.
Rob

S@#t! That's what I was thinking also!:mad:

The stock lowers are in the landfill, gone. I just was hoping the "complete kit idea" would work.:(

Thanks for responding Rob! LOVE your car!:TU:

[Robsbuick]

here are my 60' times 12 passes 2 different days thirty-six thousandths of a difference.click here (http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27877)

[Shayne Dillinge]

Hey guys,

The Wolfe bar will work with a stock gas tank. However I have my pump and filter mounted behind the rear bumper. There's no way the pump would fit in front of the tank with the Wolfe bar. As far as tail pipes go, I'm not currently running them. I'm sure you could make it work, but it might take some cutting and welding.

Rob, nice before and after pics!!!! My car responded the same as yours. It looks like our cars are pretty similar. I think if I go with a stage II scoop our Et's and mph would be close.

[grant455gs]

Shayne Dillinge said:Hey guys,

The Wolfe bar will work with a stock gas tank. However I have my pump and filter mounted behind the rear bumper. There's no way the pump would fit in front of the tank with the Wolfe bar. As far as tail pipes go, I'm not currently running them. I'm sure you could make it work, but it might take some cutting and welding.

Hi Shayne, do you have or could you take some pics of your instal?

[Robsbuick]

Shayne,
Stage 2 scoop sealed is good for about 2 tenths.:TU:

[Shayne Dillinge]

Jeff,

I don't have any pics right now. I'll try and get some tonight. The car is up on stands as I'm pulling out my old wore out motor for a fresh one. I just borrowed the work camera but someone will have to hold my hand on getting the pics posted. I'll get with you tomorrow.

[grant455gs]

Thanks a bunch Shayne! I'll be more than happy to help with the posting of the pics! Give me a hollar when ready, either thru PM or e-mail directly, jefferygt455gs@msn.com

If you can e-mail them to me directly I can resize and post. If there are different pixel settings on your camera like there is on mine it GREATLY helps to set to lowest setting before taking the pics.

Let me know..:TU: :beer

[Bruce Hunter]

Jeff, I have a brand new Wolfe Racecraft bar for sale, never installed, cost new $418.00 to my door. will sell it for $300.00 + shipping.
Shaynes car responded very nicely to the WR bar, and is relatively easy install for a welder, I just did not want to weld more stuff on the car becuase I will probably be returning the car to street use in the near future, and felt the HR parts bar was a better fit for me. Paul Ferry has been great to work with, and very helpfull in getting parts to me. I think the cost of HR's bar will offset the installation costs to those that do not have the ability or access to a welder, his kit even comes with a drill bit! and ALL hardware, plus some of the easiest instructions Iv'e everseen.
The WR bar comes with no instructions but the guys at the shop will tell you how to install it over the phone? (that's what they actually told me) however, if your fairly mechanical and can weld upside down it's easy to figure out.

Bruce H.

[grant455gs]

Thanks Bruce, I'm undecided as of yet...

[Bruce Hunter]

No problem Jeff, Just thought I'd advertise it hear as well as the parts for sale section,
I will be changing over to the HRpartsNstuff uppers and lowers soon, or this winter, and will have a set of Metco adj.uppers and lowers for sale if you might be interested, they have been on my car for about two or three years and have been very good, I currently have about 2 flats of preload in the pass. side upper and thats it. They are solid aluminum and very good quality.
Why the switch? I believe in HR parts and am going to use there complete rear end set-up, as well I will install there 1/4" longer lowers to give that little extra room for the tires, if you have any interest let me know, no pressure here.

Bruce

[Bruce Hunter]

I am posting this for Paul Ferry from HRpartsNstuff, (he's having a few computer issues)

We have an "un-published" Buick guy package special:

$40.00 OFF uppers+lowers+swaybar/anti-roll system, PLUS FREE SHIPPING to US 48 states.
even at our regular price,there is way more value with our package than anything else out there.

We know quite a few that think they saved 10% going to our competetion, untill they find out it doesn't work as advertised, poor performance,extra noise, hassles to install,and worn out or broken parts from racing. When you look at the TOTAL picture, you don't save anything that way.
We all look at price, but I never heard any complaints from anyone that bought the best available. (with any product) :)


Thanks, Paul Ferry
HRpartsNstuff

NOTE: new address & phone/fax numbersgo into effect 11-03-03
New address:
2002 Industry rd.
Atwater, Ohio 44201
customer/order phone# 330-947-2433
Fax # 330-947-2977

Old address:
3709 Duffield rd.
Kent Ohio,44240
website: www.HRpartsNstuff.com
HRpartsNstuff@aol.com

Fax# 330-678-8244(anytime)
Phne# 330-678-0899
9am to 8pm est. Ohio, Mon-Fri
10am to 5pm Sat.

[Shayne Dillinge]

Ok, this is my first attempt at posting a picture. If it works I'll post the ones I took last night. This is a shot that Paul Ferry sent me after a Norwalk test and tune. The Wolfe bar was installed and the 60' time was around a 1.52.

[Shayne Dillinge]

Well that seemed to work. Keep in mind that instead of installing elec. in my new garage, I'm building a new short block. So I was in the dark, upside down with a flashlight in my mouth.

[Robsbuick]

SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!:bglasses:

[Shayne Dillinge]

another:

[Shayne Dillinge]

here's another:

[Shayne Dillinge]

I think I got a kink in my neck :)

[Shayne Dillinge]

You have to type something differnt here or it will just overwrite your last post.

[Shayne Dillinge]

just a couple more.

[Shayne Dillinge]

Ok, last one. I think. Hope this was helpful.

[Bruce Hunter]

Nice work there Shayne, hope your neck gets better soon, care to elaborate on the new motor? you can PM me if need be, I can keep a secret. plus I need to know what to do to keep ahead of you year to year, only in times, you allways beat me in the Race, but I have so much fun hangin' with the boyz! and girlz!
Please say hi to the family!

Bruce:grin:

[grant455gs]

Thanks a bunch Shayne, for taking the time to take those pics and posting them! That was very helpful. :beer

It appears that there is almost no way that TA's 3" tailpipes will fit thru the area over the rearend with the Wolfe setup.:Do No:

[Shayne Dillinge]

Hey Bruce,

No secrets here. No big deal eather. Just a fresh short block. It has a girdle, short fill, long eagle rods (stock stroke) and short JE pistons. My compression will be up there over 13:1 though. Might be enough to dip into the 10's in some good air. My current short block has been around since 96 so it's pretty tired. I'll try and get out a few more times next year. Only raced 3 times this year, did bring home some cash each time though. :Brow:

Jeff, If your doing much street driving at all I'd go with Paul Ferry's bar. It looks a little more forgiving. Not sure if tail pipes fit. My car rarely sees much street duty these days.

[462 GILLEY]

hey all

This is a great post.
I was wondering is the HR bar.
Is it adjustable? By playing with the upright connections at the Hyme joints? Will it help preload one side?
Is the bar that goes forward parelel to the ground?
Is the bar solid, or hollow?

Thanks for everyones help.

Mike

[BQUICK]

Mike
Yes, it is adjustable. The instructions walk you thru setting it neutral (preferably with a driver's weight in the car).
There is really no need to preload since the thing works so well!

It's a tubular piece so it is relatively light for it's size.

It worked so well on my car I want mo power!

But....I'll probably leave it as it is....for consistency.

Bruce
BQUICK

[Shayne Dillinge]

Bruce wrote:
"There is really no need to preload since the thing works so well!"

Guys, I just wanted to hi-lite Bruce's quote as I think this is a very important point that everyone's looking past. I do have a little preload in my bar, very very little. My bar was zero'd out with the driver in the seat and then I put just a quarter turn in it. The fact that you don't have all the preload lets the car track down the strip without scrubbing off speed. When you have a lot of preload, even with an air bag, your placeing things in a bind. The preload will get you off the line straight, but you'll lose MPH on the big end.

Another part I use to keep my rear suspension out of any bind is spherical rear housing bushing for the upper control arms. I also got this from Wolfe. I'll try and post a picture.

[BQUICK]

Shayne
Those bushings look interesting.....is that a nut? Do they "bolt" in??

Bruce

[Shayne Dillinge]

Yep, one side is just a nut. The treads are nice and fine. I think I had to use a big pair channel locks since I have no wrenches that big.:Dou:

[462 GILLEY]

Can those bushings be purchased seperatly, how much, and through whom?
Can no hop bars be run at the same time as a roll control bar? What happens ?
Mike

[BQUICK]

The idea with this system is to get squat and weight transfer rather than separation by changing the instant center as the Southside and No-Hop bars do.

The only negative (minor) that I have noticed with not running the Southside bars and air bags is that the car squats down in the rear more that before making it slightly less stable on the top end and probably pushing more air.

Bruce