PDA

View Full Version : rusted battery tray help needed



chrisc1541
03-22-2011, 07:14 PM
tried pulling out the rusted battery tray out of my 68
standing in front of the car right hand side closest to engine bolt came free with little pressure but the nut came off with it from underneath
same thing happened on the left side also. i can't reach the nut under that one though so its still together but everything seems rusted together .
my question is what do i do now leave it until i can get the core support repaired or is there a way to remove it so the rust doesn't spread any further than it already has?

SteeveeDee
03-22-2011, 08:26 PM
I have used the thin grinding wheel in a Dremel kit to slice those things (among others) off. If it's loose at all, jam something under it to hold it off the tray and cut the bolt. If you have a die grinder, it'll go a lot faster, just rip the head off the bolt. But I don't know what kind of surgical tools you have.

chrisc1541
03-22-2011, 08:32 PM
I have used the thin grinding wheel in a Dremel kit to slice those things (among others) off. If it's loose at all, jam something under it to hold it off the tray and cut the bolt. If you have a die grinder, it'll go a lot faster, just rip the head off the bolt. But I don't know what kind of surgical tools you have.

yes on cutting off the bolts
but the nuts that are welded to the core support came off
and i don't know what lies underneath if i continue to take the last bolt out and there is nothing left there i have no way to secure the battery in the car besides bungee cords

Redmanf1
04-09-2011, 02:11 AM
You could always use a temp piece of metal or fender washers depending on how bad is. Keep the old weld nut as when you get someone with tools you can get the old bolt out and reuse the weld nut.

dynaflow
04-09-2011, 01:03 PM
...if...there is nothing left there i have no way to secure the battery in the car besides bungee cords

If nothing there, battery wasn't secure before...and "bouncing" batteries don't last long. Get tray out and assess. Chances are can fix using washers or metal as suggested...depending on how "correct" you do it. You will need to get to underside.

And...I feel your pain. What started as simple tray de-rust and change from top to side terminals, is now core support resto...it's spring, do I slap it back and cruise, or do it right...decisions...

Houndogforever
04-09-2011, 01:36 PM
Here I was so excited that I got to show my battery tray rehab. But this seems to be more about the mounting of said battery tray rather than the tray itself. I had to drill out most of the bolts holding mine in, now I need to figure out how all to fix the inner fender and radiator support.
It's always something.

I'm still going to show my repairs tho. :laugh:

Before:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/190283_10150112617349333_506014332_6078667_3507027 _n.jpg

After
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208230_10150147121399333_506014332_6267761_1602493 _n.jpg

dynaflow
04-09-2011, 02:32 PM
...It's always something...

My tray didn't look as bad as yours, so...just take out, electrolysis derust, put back, and swap cables to side terminal...nope...corrosion around core mount, plus someone had been in there before. Welded nuts gone and put back w/mix of nuts/bolts.

If not after correctness, you can use 5/16X18 body bolts with nuts/washers on bottom...

chrisc1541
04-09-2011, 09:54 PM
I've decided to put the bolts back in with washers for the season.
bought a battery tray mat to try and prevent any more acid leaching for the summer driving season.
I will revisit over winter.