Powder Coating Convertible Frame

[lcac_man]

Anybody done this? I've only looked breifly at my frame it's in great shape but while I'm doing everything else I'm gonna detail it, currently planning on having it blasted and powder coated, I've had real good sucess with a local outfit, just curious if anyone else has done this.

[Rick Henderson]

Len,
I just had this done to my 70 convertible frame, and will be having the core support, inner fenders, and some other small parts done. The frame turned out great.

[8587GN]

Doing the same to my 71 hardtop GS

[tlivingd]

Rick Henderson said:Len,
I just had this done to my 70 convertible frame, and will be having the core support, inner fenders, and some other small parts done. The frame turned out great.

Rick, did you pull all the rivets out of the frame or did you do it with all the pieces connected?

Nate

[lcac_man]

I can't imagine removing the rivets, I've had my hood hinges done completely assembled and they turned out great, I was more worried about any nylon bushings that might be in the frame, I haven't seen any yet. Plan to remove it this afternoon.

[lcac_man]

Rick,
Did you have any trouble getting the tacking strips reinstalled afterward?

[Rick Henderson]

tlivingd said:Rick, did you pull all the rivets out of the frame or did you do it with all the pieces connected?

Nate

Nate,

I don't know of any rivets. I took everything off the frame, and cleaned the weld slag stuff, and had it sandblasted, and powdercoated. It was very quick and simple, and I would have done it years ago, if I had known how easy it was to take apart. The fun part is putting it back together:)

[Rick Henderson]

lcac_man said:Rick,
Did you have any trouble getting the tacking strips reinstalled afterward?

I am not sure what the tacking strips are?

[462CID]

The tacking strips are the actual cork or plastic strips you staple the top fabric/window curtain to at the header bow, rear bow, and also on the rear trim stick there is a tacking strip, too (not really a part of the top frame, but it still has a tacking strip).

[Rick Henderson]

I had the frame of the car done, not the convertible top frame done. I miss read your post and thought you meant the frame itself.
:spank:

[462CID]

Rick, don't feel bad.:grin: I thought it was the heavy duty frame for a convertible myself until I read about the rivets...:Dou: TOP frame, lol, threw me for a loop

[lcac_man]

After looking it (top frame) over there's way to many nylon bushings, I would have to remove about a dozen rivets. Looks like a plastic media blast and paint project instead of powder coat.
-
Thankfully I'm past the chasis frame part of the project.

[1965 Gran Sport]

I also wanted to do this to my top frame. I take it the bushings would disentegrate when they went in the oven? Any other folks with convertible top powder coating experience?

Thanks,
JM

[lcac_man]

Yeah, I talked to the guy at the powder coat shop, no way those bushings will live through the cure (400degrees). I'm just gonna go with a media blast then paint it satin black.

[TimR]

Can't you disassemble the convertible top frame down to bare metal pieces and have them done and then reassemble??

I don't see anywhere where there is a nylon bushing that couldn't be popped out....(my top is currently in a big box though so I could be wrong). Powdercoating is definitely the way to go if possible.

I plan on powdercoating my convertible car frame as well, I had a friend do his chevelle in a black that had teflon in the actual powder, stickers won't stick to it!!!LOL Personally I am just shooting for correct gloss...
later
Tim

[lcac_man]

Tim,
There are a bunch of solid rivets that would have to be ground/drilled out, if all the pivot points had threaded fasteners then I would have disassembled it and had it powdercoated, I'm just not willing to fight those rivets :blast: .
Maybe some of the later models are different.:Do No:

[TimR]

the solid rivets shouldn't be a problem, no different than painting over them?? Make sure they are free before installing top??

There is a coating that they use on bolts, etc...it is so thin that it doesn't cause problems even on bolts/nuts....it is a semi glass black, I think they called it an industrial finish but if its that thin I couldnt' see it affecting the solid rivet pivot points...

Just a thought.

later
Tim

[lcac_man]

Tim,
There's nylon bushings on all those rivets, so they will all have to be ground out and removed, way to much work in my book.

[TimR]

OK, well I guess that ends that!!!

I agree with you on the rivits, best not to mess with them unless they are toast.

later
Tim

[lcac_man]

I'm still bummed about it, I was really wanting to have that thing powdercoated. I'm spending about twice as much for plastic media blast, primer and paint, knowing full well that it won't last as long.

[TimR]

yeah len, you and me both. I had never looked that close and assumed those rivets were simply metal to metal connections.....

later
Tim

[r72gs]

I was planning on doing the same thing this winter.

Are there any other options other than blast/paint?

[wlund]

I decided against powder coating mine because of the plastic bushing issue, i had it painted with a good satin epoxy. It looks pretty good as a box of parts.... I have never disaasembled a top frame before. I removed the top assembly as a unit which was no picnic. My plan was to reassemble the top piece be piece in the car, but i havent got their yet. This is an area where even the internet has scarce info. Have you seen the price for a repro header? The next time i see an A-body conv. in the junk yard i'll probably scavenge the whole top.....

wlund