Tanks for EFI 65 Skylark

[CTX-SLPR]

Howdy,

I'm kind of precariously balanced between this board and the turbo Buick board because I'm probably going to be dropping a turbo 6 into a 65 Skylark. I know many of ya'll have done somesort of EFI in these A-bodies so I was wondering what ya'll used for fuel tanks? Right now the options are the Aeromotive bolt-in baffled and sumped tank ($639.95), Competition Engineering weld in sump and homemade baffling ($61.88 plus fabrication costs an questionable baffling design), Turbo Regal or Roadmaster/Impala SS tank retrofitted in (~$350), Custom made EFI tank or conversion($???), or the final option a summit 20 gal sumped fuel cell temp mounted in the trunk till I can afford something better ($169.95). What do ya'll think is the best and more cost effective option? I can't weld well enough myself to seal the tank up so that would have to be outsourced and I want to keep the trunkspace useful so the fuel cell is only a temporary measure. I would also prefer to run a submerged pump if I can but if I need to use the external one I can, just have to figure out how to sound deaden it without over heating it.

Thanks,

[bobc455]

Speaking as someone who has used an external pump for years, all I can say is avoid it at all costs! I think I've burned up about 15 pumps since 2001.

My next step will probably be to a Rock Valley tank, or maybe the Aeromotive setup (probably Rock Valley).

-Bob Cunningham

[CTX-SLPR]

Well its turned into a 67 Skylark... long story but I am still needing advice for the tank issue.

Thanks,

[bobc455]

Ctx,

The "best" way to do it is an in-tank pump as I described.

HOWEVER if you want, you can try for an external pump. The system on my car (although it is not too great) uses a Holley Projection pump (see http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D12%2D920 ). Depending on your HP level, you may have to double up on the pumps- run two in parallel- in order to maintain pressure. The second pump could come on with a WOT switch. (When the pump is not running, it will prevent fuel from flowing backwards, so you don' t need any sort of check valve). Of course you'll also need a return-style regulator and a return line.

And, you might want to carry a spare. I do.

In order to make these last the longest time possible, I have recently changed to NO inlet filter on the pump- I protect the engine with a filter, but the pump is unprotected. These pumps can push great, but they cannot pull very well. The inlet filter was causing such a restriction that it was burning up pumps- even though the gas was clean. Just be sure to fill up with "quality" gas (i.e. ExxonMobil, Sunoco, etc.) and not junk.

Make sure the pump is as low as possible, so that gasoline feeds the pump by gravity. Also remember that in order to keep the pump cool, it is always flowing full volume, so your return line may need to be sized accordingly.

A good idea on any car like this is a low-pressure switch in the supply line. I think Nitrous Express P/N 15718 will do the trick- even if you just hook it up to a buzzer or something so you don't go lean and lose a headgasket.