Conv Switch [Archive]

Marco

08-02-2002, 08:04 AM

Hello Stranger, and welcome to the V8Buick board!

We're all pretty friendly 'round these parts and we would appreciate if you sign your posts with at least a first name so we know who we're 'chatting' with.

I've never heard of the top switch spring doing that that quickly. It doesn't take much pressure to work the switch. Keep it gentle and the switch should last fine. Maybe the second switch was on it's way out? If you lightly press the switch, you should be fine!

I should know - my wife was 'helping' me bleed the hydraulic system by working the top switch while I was filling the reservoir. Well, she apparently thought she was going for an Olympic record and basically put so much pressure on the switch she ruined it. :Dou:

bmcmillan

08-02-2002, 09:39 AM

Marco,
Sorry about not having a Signature.

The switch just lost power on the DN side,
Then lost power on the UP side
Could I have a ground problem at the motor?
The switch before like melted, on opposite side of the
three prong.
I have notice that the top switch gets really
warm when I use it.
Jim Weisse helped me put this last switch in.
The switch we put in, seemed like a good switch.

Brian McMillan
72 Buick GS Conv 455
BPG #1077

Marco

08-02-2002, 10:11 AM

Hi Brian -

Do you have a chassis manual/Fisher body manual?

The switch does get hot, but you definitely need to check your wiring if you think it's getting so hot it's ruining the switch. That's not good - I'd hate to hear you had an interior fire.

You can easily check the ground in your trunk since I believe it's in plain sight, but I think there is also a ground in one of the (3) wires going to the back of the switch.

Your best bet is to look at a wiring diagram. If you can't find one, I can look in my manuals and see if I can find this info. Sorry, but I probably wouldn't be able to get you this information until al least next week.

Let me know if you need any help.

NvrDun

08-02-2002, 06:20 PM

Hi Guys,

I have been looking for a convt switch for a while and have not found one. I have most of the parts manuals Y1, OPGI, Poston and CARS and I have not seen it.

Any help locating one would be very appreaciated.

Thanks

Marco

08-02-2002, 07:11 PM

Rich -

When I needed one, I put a 'Parts Wanted' post on this site and the BCA (http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?category=2) website.

You'll definitely find one this way!

PS - get a spare if you can...

Jim Weise

08-02-2002, 07:54 PM

Oh sure, I give you a perfectly working switch, and ya' fry it..:laugh:

Seriously, since you have a history of this problem, I would suggest that you may have an issue with the motor, or the top mechanism itself may be binding, causing the hydraulics to overload, and working the motor harder. We need to remember that a DC motor draws more amperage the slower it runs, so if excessive Hydraulic pressures are required, the motor may slow down, drawing more current than normal, and frying the switch.

Until you track down the problem, make sure that next time you wire a 30 amp relay into the circuit.. that way, you use the hard to find top switch to do nothing but activate the relay, and if the problem perisists, then the worst thing you have to replace is and easy to find $6.00 relay.

I never did see the top go up and down, I guess I should have had you run it thru a couple of cycles while you were here, but we were frying bigger fish at the time.

When I am out and about, I will look for another switch for you, and can send you a pre-wired relay assembly ... and for the rest of you ragtop guys, it is not a bad idea to have something like this, as the switch on the dash is carrying full motor current, and will eventually wear out. I know when I put my ragtop back together, I will definately not run all that current repeatedly thru a 33 year old switch... running just a fraction of that current thru the old switch will extend it's lifespan dramatically.

'Ya know, while I am thinking about it....

If you guys are interested in a kit for this, let me know, as I have a stage ragtop that will be in the shop in a month or so (ya Cole, that's you!) and I can put together a kit, should be an inexpensive one, that will be easy to install. I will design it so that you don't have to cut the harnesses up, but just add another harness in, and then indiviually wire the switch terminals.. should be no biggie to install, worst thing will be getting behind the dash to get at the switch connections, which is no biggie, if you pull the pad, and access it from the hole above the radio. AC guys will have to take out a couple of screws, and remove the center vent duct. Prolly gonna cost about $25.00, for a nice 30 A relay setup, with a molded plug for the relay, and all the wiring and connnectors required. Pretty cheap considering the trouble and cost of finding a switch.

Interested?

JW

David Gramlow

08-02-2002, 08:08 PM

Brian,

Great to see you on the board! If you're interested in having one of the pics I took of your 'vert re-sized to use as an avatar(pic), let me know, and I'll get it emailed over to you. Or maybe I can upload it from here, then I think all you need to do is browse the available avatars from the "user cp" choices.

John W

08-02-2002, 08:26 PM

I sure would like to get one if you decide to make them. Let me know when and I will send the cash.

NvrDun

08-03-2002, 02:24 AM

Jim,

I did not know the switch handled all the juice, so what you are planning is making the switch more of a basic switch and have the power handled by the relay behind the switch, if that will extend the life of the switches that would be excellent.

I would be interested in this for atleast 2 maybe 3.

Thanks

bmcmillan

08-05-2002, 07:12 AM

Marco,
Thank you, I do have all the manuals.

JW
I will buy the conversion kit. I will try to find out what the
problem with the switch is this week. Maybe it is something else.
I noticed that I lost power first on the UP side, then it quit
working on the DN side. It seems to still have the self center
on it. Not like the last one I had. I need to get that working
again.

Dave
Yes, please send some pictures of my car.
If you could, make them a little smaller.
I am using the car show one as a screen saving here at work.
I like it.

Brian McMillan
72 GS Conv 455
BPG #1077

Marco

08-05-2002, 07:59 AM

Jim Weise said:... 'Ya know, while I am thinking about it....

If you guys are interested in a kit for this, let me know, as I have a stage ragtop that will be in the shop in a month or so (ya Cole, that's you!) and I can put together a kit, should be an inexpensive one, that will be easy to install. I will design it so that you don't have to cut the harnesses up, but just add another harness in, and then indiviually wire the switch terminals.. should be no biggie to install, worst thing will be getting behind the dash to get at the switch connections, which is no biggie, if you pull the pad, and access it from the hole above the radio. AC guys will have to take out a couple of screws, and remove the center vent duct. Prolly gonna cost about $25.00, for a nice 30 A relay setup, with a molded plug for the relay, and all the wiring and connnectors required. Pretty cheap considering the trouble and cost of finding a switch.

Interested?

JW

Hey Jim -

Good idea! I'll talk to you at Duane's house about it. I'd like to get a little more info, in addition to what I would need to take apart.

Thanks!

PS - Is Cole's GS a factory Stage1??? (Cole, you out there???)

Jim Weise

08-05-2002, 09:46 AM

Nope, Cole's is a GS455, but I do have a 72 STG 1 Convert here in the shop, not sure about documentation on this one, but it does have the correct engine code in the VIN.

I will relay your info on the STG 1 Registry to it's owner.

Too many ragtops around here... to keep them all straight..:Dou:

I will get to work on a kit shortly, I have that Stage car here for a complete driver resto, so it is all together now, so I can build the kit, and then write the directions based on doing it with a completed car.

Yes, the kit will use the factory switch to simply activate the the electronic relay, so the current flowing thru your 30+ year old switch will be just a fraction of what it is handling now.

I will get back to you all on this in a couple of weeks, after I put together the kit, and install it on one of the ragtops in the shop here.

As always, I will be doing daily testing of the system, to prove it's function and dependablity, before I offer them for sale, and the kit will include very complete instructions, and the relay will be wired up, all you will have to do is make the wiring connections that are required in the car. I am going to try and make it, so all you have to do is pull off the dash pad, and possibly remove the center AC Vent ductwork, if so equipt. It will be a bummer if you have to pull the dash cluster... that is not fun.
But I don't think that will be required.

Off to the drawing board.....

JW

Marco

08-05-2002, 09:59 AM

Jim Weise said:Nope, Cole's is a GS455, but I do have a 72 STG 1 Convert here in the shop, not sure about documentation on this one, but it does have the correct engine code in the VIN.

I will relay your info on the STG 1 Registry to it's owner...

JW

1972 VINs are good enough for me :cool:

Thanks for the info relay Jim, and God willing I'll see you in two weeks!

TimR

08-05-2002, 06:06 PM

Just some info here, as useless as it may be. If you have a top switch that is physically broken (attach point, etc), you may be interested to know the case and the the switch knob itself are the same on the rear defrost switch. Only the little plate inside with the current transferring mechanism is differerent..and that only amunts to different pin arrangement and the little tabs bent further out so the top switch will return to center when released.

Thought it might help someone out. Also, I think JW's idea is a very good one, I find it hard to beleive they actually ran all that current through that little switch (pry the clips off the side and look at the contacts....30 amps???LOL).

later
Tim

pakual

08-07-2002, 11:35 PM

Hello all:
Another idea, The wiring runs close to the steering column. My switch did the same thing because I lowered my column and when raising it back in to position I pinched the wires. As Jim said there is a lot of juice and the wires cannot be crimped.
Freeing the wires up was all it took. I originally thought the motor or switch was bad.
I think the rear window switch in a Station Wagon is the same as the top switch. Another place to look.
Good luck
JA :)

bmcmillan

08-09-2002, 12:51 PM

I went back and tested the conv switch. I do have power at the
middle prong. When I try the DN or UP side of the switch, No
power. The switch has failed.
I know JW is working on a relay for the Conv Switch.
So I was wondering if you mounted a relay back by the conv
motor to take up the amperage from the switch.
thinking that you would not be running the amps all the way
up to the back switch. The juice would still be minimal at the switch and through the wires from the relay.
Would that work JW.

Truzi

08-09-2002, 02:18 PM

I really like the relay example, and your idea of the relay at the motor should work. If Jim's kit puts a relay at the switch, it makes installation easier.

However, if your car fried the switches so quickly, I'd still check out the wiring to make sure something isn't wrong before putting in a relay.

r72gs

08-09-2002, 04:50 PM

The ground goes from the pump/motor to the brace that the rear seat back attaches to, may be that simple and it's easy to check. The relay is a great idea, I'm going to add one to mine before I get the dash back in.

TimR

08-09-2002, 07:36 PM

I've already been looking at the relay idea as well....I think it would be best to mount it near the fusebox for easy access....couple of old harness GM wiring connectors and can plug the whole thing into the stock wiring harness, no cutting needed.

Problem with putting the relay setup at the back is you will still need to run power from the front (unless your battery is mounted in the trunk) capable of operating the pump and without excessive line loss, AND the control wires to control the system(relay), so it just adds wire. The stock switch harness plugs into the middle harness right by the fusebox, so you can access the power needed easily, less wire to run as well.

The pump motor is a reversible motor so you can't just interupt the ground side, it has to be directional (which is too bad, it wuld really make things easy).

The contacts inside the top switch and the defrost switch are the same as well (I've been playing), just the two prongs in the middle for the return (or not) are different, and adjusted just by bending them (thats how GM did it)...so if your contacts inside the switch are pitted, you can use the element from a defrost switch which didn't carry much current, usually very nice shape (whereas the contacts in my top switch element were burned right up). It compounds itself since the pitting causes more resistance which in turn causes heat buildup and more pitting and the cycle continues....

later
Tim

r72gs

08-09-2002, 09:33 PM

Tim,
I agree the relay should be as close to the source of power, I meant to check the ground as a possible source of burning up switches.

There is a place in New England that rebuilds top switches, with a lifetime warantee. I'll see if I can look them up.

TimR

08-25-2002, 10:56 AM

Just as an update to all this, was at the wreckers yesterday and found several helpful items. Was pulling the dash out of a 70 skylark with rear defog and noticed it also had another connector in the defrost instrument panel harness..it looks just like the ragtop harness connector but the wires are only 18 gauge. Not sure what it was for (what else would be there that doesn't need big power??)but its perfect since there will be no splicing needed into a switch assembly for a relay setup.

Also, mid 90's grand ams have a whole whack of relays in them, even come with weatherpack connectors and a nice little bracket they slide onto. they are located behind the passenger side strut tower...one input and output to control one power in/out contact rated at 30A, 12V. Also, all kinds of cool relays and cool connectors on those cars. Guys at wreckers threw them in, beats 20.00 each I was quoted for new ones at local electronics shop.

One other thing, this 70 instrument bezel had only the lower level vents..the one in the dash to the LH side is actually filled in and has a buick plate in it just like the RH side usually does when no options speciifed. Odd.

And I FINALLY found a door!!!! It appears to have be reskinned at one time since there are small weld marks around the perimeter inside door edge, but excellent shape, no rust at all, very straight.

Just some useless info.

later
Tim

69customskylark

09-09-2002, 04:50 PM

Hey fellas,

I'd also be interested in an alternate to the built in convertible switch. The spring in mine is shot, and the top no longer lowers all the way.

Eric

225Ragtop

09-17-2002, 02:29 PM

Jim, a while back you had a post on making a relay kit for convertible switches. I have two Electra ragtops and the switches still work, but you never know....so I would be interested in a couple of kits if you decide to make them.

Sandor

Jim Weise

09-17-2002, 03:12 PM

Hi Sandor,

How have you been? It was good to meet you and your wife out at Duane's party... And you have a really beautiful Electra ragtop.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Guys, allow me a few words on the design/testing philosophy here at Tri-Shield, to explain why this kit is not yet available..

I have not forgotten about this project, but we are really in a push right now, to finish the race car in the shop, and handle other small restoration and performance projects, as they come in. Not to mention my time commitments to the BPG, and this BB.

As with everything I develop, I have to put a new product in a car, and prove out the product, before I will offer it for sale. Often times things look great on paper, but put into practice, we uncover issues that need to be dealt with, before we offer it to the rest of the Buick crowd. And although I realize that this is not the best way to make money selling parts, it is the best way to insure our potential customers, that what they purchase from Tri-Shield, will perform as advertised. This starts with the major turn key race and street cars, thru the complete motors/transmissions/converters, down to the smaller kits that we offer for sale.

To look at it another way, basically what I offer for sale, are parts of the complete cars we do here.. lets take for example one of our street performance engines.... if you buy our level 1 performance street motor (known as the convert motor) then you can be assured it is the right motor for your application.. as I have not only designed, personally built, and proven the eingine on the dyno, but have also put that exact combo in a complete car, and operated the vehicle. This gives us the rare ability to competently tell a customer what they need to compliment that engine, in the areas of trans/converter/gearing, and can give an educated testimonial on how it works.

It's a "been there, done that" type of thing.. And that filters down to even the smallest of parts or kits, like this convertable top relay deal. I have a pair of convertables that will be in the shop this fall/winter, and both cars will get that system, to prove out it's merits. Once I am satisfied that the system works properly, installs easily, and is durable, then I will offer it to the the rest of you guys.

Yes, I could certainly just whip something up, throw it in the car, and say... let's take this to market... but I don't believe in doing business that way.

This system is on paper, and I have sourced some very high quality parts for it, but actual installation and testing will not occure until this winter/next spring... the kits should be available at the start of "ragtop season" (at least in the northern states) next year.

So hang on, we will have a proven product to sell you, in the not so distant future.

Thanks,

JW

225Ragtop

09-17-2002, 03:24 PM

Hi, Jim. Nice of you to remember. I like your design philosophy - after all your reputation will rest on it. So we'll wait till you're ready.
Another question - We talked about building up the motor in my 70 Electra, with the 455. Right now it has posi rear with 2.78 gears. One of the fellows on the board has a 3.08 rear end that's supposed to bolt right in. Would that make sense with your switch pitch tranny, or would there be enough torque for the 2.78 rear end. Since the car would be mainly for cruising, I kind of like the low (numerical) gears. Also, would you go for a different/better axle? Say 30 splines or whatever/

Thanks,

Sandor

Jim Weise

09-17-2002, 05:19 PM

Mmnnnn...

If you had a 2.56 or so, and had to chance to get the 3.08, I would say jump at it... but right now your talking about only .3 of a turn, and your typically not going to notice that a ton..

On the flip side, it certainly could not hurt.. and it's never a bad idea to have an extra rear laying around.

Now, if your really out to build a stormer.. then I would prolly recommend a 9" Ford unit.

Yes, our 12" VP converter would really "wake it up", with very little/no loss in "cruisablity"... and mileage.

I always have thought that it would be fun to put a big inch motor in that type of application, with a short duration cam, and focus the design concept on torque, in the 2800-4500 rpm range. I know we discussed this briefly, but since then I have been doing some thinkin..

And.... hang on to your hat's boys.. I would top off the combo with a custom set of 1 3/4 inch primary size headers, with 3 or 3 1/4 inch collectors headers....:eek2:

We need to not accept the "status quo" when dealving into these unique applications. It would certainly be an interesting project, albeit an expensive one.

I am not sure if that is what you had in mind, budget-wise, and we can certainly work with you, for any level of engine you desire.

But I tell ya' it has always bugged me that we are putting the same primary size/ collector size headers on all these iron motors... from the "warmed over" 425 HP street motors, to the 650 HP race motors.. Just doesn't seem right, from a design point of view.

And it's not, but the big equalizing factor is cost... you can get into a good set of mass produced, and coated headers for around $550, custom stuff can easily be twice that, or more.

And the fact is, on motors from 500HP on up, then the 1 7/8 header is the right choice.

We may test this theory out on one of the current cars being done in the shop, a '72 stage convert, for which we are builing our "convert" motor.

JW

225Ragtop

09-18-2002, 09:45 AM

Jim, given that my Electra will weigh about 5000 lbs with full tank and driver, let alone passanger (even though she only weighs 115 lbs), it is a heavy car, and I guess I would be looking for low-midrange torque and power (like you said 2800-4500rpm). In this case you would want high air flow at low rpm, so you would have smaller ports and smaller diameter headers. Is that right? At what point you transition into bigger ports and fancy heads? What cam do you have in mind? How heavy is the convert you are working on now?

Sandor

69customskylark

09-18-2002, 12:06 PM

About the convertible switch, is there a good way to bypass the switch with a seperate battery/wiring or something to test my motor/hydraulics? I'm not sure if my switch is burned out, or if it's something more serious. when I engage the switch, it starts to run, but stops short of lowering all the way.

Eric:Do No:

bmcmillan

03-13-2003, 02:40 PM

Jim: (JW)

Remember you talked about building a kit for the convertible switch. Well, I have purchased a different switch, and I would like to buy that kit you talked about. Is it still possible for you to put it together?
I don't want to loose another switch. And most of all, I want to Drop the Top.
Thanks
:beer

lcac_man

03-15-2003, 12:17 PM

Sounds like it will be next year before TSP gets this to market, my car is pulled down now and I'm in the process of reinstalling the harness' for systems check before it goes out for body/paint. I'm going to use a relay control for my top motor, haven't decided whether to use two standard SP/ST or go with a single double.
I'll forward details and pic's when I get to that point.

lcac_man

03-17-2003, 11:50 AM

Looks like two singles will be the way to go, anybody got an idea of how much the pump draws? It's 12ga. running back there, I'm thinking a 40 or 50A relay setup. I'm going to run a 6ga lead back there and split it for my stereo amp and the pump so I'll have a total of three relays back there, will install a fuse/fusable link up front at the source for saftey.

Jim Weise

03-21-2003, 12:06 AM

lcac_man said:Sounds like it will be next year before TSP gets this to market, my car is pulled down now and I'm in the process of reinstalling the harness' for systems check before it goes out for body/paint. I'm going to use a relay control for my top motor, haven't decided whether to use two standard SP/ST or go with a single double.
I'll forward details and pic's when I get to that point.

He's right, I'm a ways away from having one of the ragtops done, and as with everthing I sell, I will not rush any new product, just to get it to market.. I have to prove to myself that it works, and is durable..

I am about 2 months behind on the car schedule in the shop, partly due to the explosion in the engine business in the last 3 months, and partly due to the race car fabrication project from hell..

Mental note to self.. next time you quote a tube chassis race car, add 30% to the estimate.. then you might break even on it.. :Dou:

JW

flynbuick

03-21-2003, 03:35 AM

NvrDun said:Hi Guys,

I have been looking for a convt switch for a while and have not found one. I have most of the parts manuals Y1, OPGI, Poston and CARS and I have not seen it.

Any help locating one would be very appreaciated.

Thanks

Hello:

Try www.thepartsplaceinc.com. It is sold on page on page 13 for $129 with a 50 dollar core charge.

smellypants

03-21-2003, 06:03 AM

Do you have a core? Greg Becker just rebuilt mine. I believe he warrenties it for life???

69GS400s

03-27-2003, 10:01 AM

Jim....put me down for one of the Relays - definately - when you get a RoundToIt

Ummmm......thinking of it - I guess putting all 4 windows down at the same time could be the reason the power lead in my 4-way power window switch module fried:Dou: :Dou:

Jim - I need one of those thingies too while you have your eyes open - the module that connects to the 4-way drivers switch. Thin....lots of leads.

Would like the whole harness but a few feet of wire attached to the module will do (I know how to solder)

tlivingd

03-31-2003, 09:22 PM

question... what is the factory breaker rating on the fuse panel for the convertable pump motor? (I don't have my manual or car near me)

I'm looking at figuring the parts and wiring diagram's to set up a convertable top switch relay setup from a major electronic mail order supplier and it would be a DIY project. (simple soldering) and i'd post wiring diagrams

also this kit would require cutting and splicing into the factory system in the dash (asuming your factory wires are fine)

It could be possable to do with minimal cuttting of the factory harness (if any cutting) If you were to run a new positive wire into the trunk. (I'm pretty sure this will need to be a #10 or #8 wire.) again if factory wires are fine but they would cary much less load.

what would you guys be intrested in?

buickman70

12-01-2003, 02:08 PM

I thought I would bring this post up to the top, as I am interested in a relay also. Any progess in the testing, JimW?

tlivingd

12-01-2003, 02:15 PM

hey guys, how would you like to see it. there is the good way to do it where it all fits under the dash. (requires cutting and splicing off of current wiring harnesses and uses old wire to carry the current)
or there is the completely added way that requires re running a 12-10 awg line from your battery to the trunk. and the old lines will carry milliamps.

Nate

TimR

12-02-2003, 09:30 AM

I came up with a system that will use two relays, plugs into the factory harness with no splicing, no mods...the switch will carry small signal current and the factory wires will carry the main current as per original back to the pump.

I have no doubt it will work fine, but can't really say much more until I can install and test it. Be a year or more for sure...only thing I am struggling with is where to mount the relays so they are out of the way and accessable at the same time.

No way am I gonna run30 amps through that tiny little switch with its tiny little contacts. I am shocked GM did it that way!

later
Tim

tlivingd

12-02-2003, 09:33 AM

but your running a new wire to the relays right for their power source.

Nate

I can draw up what the wiring connections would be if anyone else is intrested it will work and if you size the components right for the power draw there will be no problems.

ahh.. though, is there a plug between the plug on the back of the switch and to the harness that goes to the rear of the car?

Nate

TimR

12-18-2003, 11:37 AM

Yes you need a new wire for the main power feed but that is easy to do with factory connectors. the original harness is still used, but now what used to be the power harness is the signal for the relays, the rest just plugs into the factory harness connectors.

I even found a perfect source for the relays, 40amp bosch units, set of four with bracket cost me $4.00 at the wreckers...connectors are all ready to go, just need the car to put it into.....I also have all the diagrams and part numbers ready to go, didn't want to put it online until I can try it myself....case somebody burns their car up and then blames me.

I can post diagrams if you wish.

later
Tim

gscalifornia

12-18-2003, 12:03 PM

Tim,

I'd be interested in the diagrams. I've got the dash tore apart on my '69 convert so this would be a good time to add the relays and replumb the wiring.

Thanks!

Ken

TimR

12-18-2003, 04:25 PM

ken, you have mail!

Tim

TimR

12-20-2003, 10:39 PM

Ok, I've had so many requests for this that I added it to my website.....remember, it is untested as of yet and although I have no doubt it will work fine, I cannot be responsible if you electricute yourself, get crimped in the wire crimpers, burn your car up, hit your head on the dash or whatever....

All I ask is you give credit where it is due, and if you have suggestions, I'm listening...the idea is to improve all our cars...

http://members.shaw.ca/timcr/elec.html

Remember my car is that the shop so still some details to be worked out but the wiring diagram is there....

later
Tim

tlivingd

12-21-2003, 09:21 AM

you may wish to decide to relocate the relays into the trunk. not to have high currents still running under the old dried out wire (if you haven't changed the harness) and put about a 12 awg wire to the trunk. its as simple change.

if anyone is intrested in doing it with new parts DIGI-KEY is a source for 40 amp automotive relays, nice mounting bases, and new crimp connectors.

Nate

TimR

12-21-2003, 11:45 AM

Well as I said in the post I have not decided on the final location of anything. Also, the page is under construction not all the info is there....and of course you can buy new anything if you don't want used parts.

I like the weatherpack connectors as they are easy to change realys for troubleshooting (unclip old relay, install another one)..the bosch relays run about 20.00US each, so pretty hard to beat $4.00 for four relays plus a bracket you can use to mount them.

Putting the relays in the trunk would also save weight as can make up new signal harness with smaller gauge wire. Inside the rear seat support would be the best, could hide the whole mess in there....hmmm...

later
Tim

edit: I have added your suggestion to the page but won't change the diagram for now, until I actually do the car and finalize everything....

lcac_man

12-22-2003, 07:30 PM

I'm gonna run a 6ga. wire back to the seat tower and install a terminal strip, (I'll put a fuseable link in up at the battery connection for safety). I'll be able to power the top motor, trunk release, and stereo amp with a series of relays back there.
It will also be a good place to power my in tank pump when I go to fuel injection.

TimR

12-22-2003, 10:46 PM

maybe you should put the battery in the trunk too!!!:Brow:

later
tim

lcac_man

12-23-2003, 11:24 AM

I considered it, but running 1ga all the way up front just didn't make sense to me. Plus I spent so much money rebuilding the inner fender for the battery tray area that I was determined to get some bang for the buck outta it.

lcac_man

01-01-2004, 05:09 PM

Took a bit of what everyone was offering and got mine installed and working today. I took a trip to the local yard and pulled a few bosch and hella relays with the weather pak connectors and a mounting bracket along with a nice bulkhead battery terminal connection (89 Olds I think), I ran a 6ga. lead from my remote starter soleniod line side (with 70a fusible link) through the frame back to the rear seat tower where I mounted the battery terminal connection then mounted the relays inside the seat tower also, used some spare matching connectors from an old wire harness I had lying around so I didn't have to cut the original harness. About $14 total, and it works like a champ.
Wiring is the same as Tim put together with the exception of the new 6ga lead going all the way back and the relays being back by the pump.
Having the heavy power available back there will also allow me to power my trunk release relay (for keyless entry/alarm system), and stereo amp.
definately a worthwhile project.
I'll see if I can get some pics up tomorrow.