View Full Version : T/A Stage1 350 Intake Question
71ConvtSkylark
09-10-2002, 06:59 AM
Has anyone had problems with the TA Stage1 Intake not sealing with the heads? I have a big vaccum leak coming in from somewhere on the thing. Havent found it yet, but can hear it. Its not a port, and its not the carb, cause I have tried several and same problem. My guess is the Intake. I have heard some Chevy<shiver> guys talk about having to torque their intake more than recommended specs to get them to seal. Anyone had similar experiences?
Thanks,
-Jon
sbbuick
09-10-2002, 07:35 AM
I have never had that problem, and I have even reused the steel shim intake gasket before!
Try the soft intake gaskets. They should definately solve the problem.
furiousgoat
09-10-2002, 09:25 AM
I've just recently installed a T/A Stage 1 intake on my '69 Lesabre. First, I'd like to say that the Stage 1 intake is an very quailty piece. Initially, I couldn't get the water crossovers to seal, when only using the steel gasket. I called T/A and they recommended using a black RTV around the water crossovers, and the yellow weatherstrip sealer around the ports. I used Blue RTV and was completely successful reusing the steel gasket that was already torqued once. Apply the sealant to the block, lay down the steel gasket, and apply another layer on top of the gasket.
Matt Gartman
71ConvtSkylark
09-10-2002, 11:16 AM
I initially used the Black RTV, but used it sparingly. Maybe I will use a bigger bead this time, and see if it seals. Never tried re-using the steel gasket before. Ever had any trouble reusing it?
Thanks,
-Jon
Mike Atwood
09-10-2002, 12:47 PM
I used only copper spray gasket, the kind you use on head gaskets and intakes....... no leaks at all..... I was very impressed with the intake....very nice piece.
Mike
gearhead434
09-10-2002, 02:00 PM
If the heads have been milled at all, the surfaces of the intake and bottom needs to be milled as well to restore the proper fit and alignment of the intake to the heads. If not, go the RTV route, use black on the intake ports (thin works best) and blue around the water ports. Apply the RTV (Loctite is the best) and let it skin for 10-15 minutes before putting any additional gasket material on top of it, apply your gasket, add another skim coat of silicone and let that skin as well before setting the intake. If you still have issues I would check out how straight the intake and head surfaces are. Hope that helps.
David Butts
09-10-2002, 06:32 PM
I did have a problem several years ago with the soft gaskets and this intake. Two ports had pulled the gasket into them and two had squeezed the gasket into the valley creating an unusual oil usage problem. I went back to the standard valley pan and no more problems.:confused:
furiousgoat
09-11-2002, 02:42 PM
I had absolutely no problem with reusing the steel gasket. It was already a new one, it simply didn't seal the first time around. You might want to reevaluate your own situation because you already have some silicone on it. Although I'd say you should have no problems as long as you remove all the old stuff before attempting to apply a new bead, and don't bend it out of shape.
When I removed my gasket, because it didn't seal the first time, the raised ridge wasn't even compressed. I think part of the sealing problem happens because aluminum is being mated to cast iron, and the expansion/compression rates of the two metals are different.
Good luck!
Matt Gartman
'69 Lesabre 400
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