Hello Everyone, I have some experience in sheet metal repairs and paint but have only done full cars and not repair work. I currently have a 72 survivor that has good original lacquer paint with the exception of a bad fender and trunk. I'm looking to replace the fender and trunk with clean used metal that I've already acquired. My question is two-fold: How will the job look of I paint the panels separately then bolt on? And Currently the suppliers tell me that they can only get enamel paints and that they can color match it to the original to adjust for fade. How will this look? The original paint should be lacquer to my knowledge. I would like it to be a clean driver and in no way shape or form a show car. Just looking to get rid of the rust and make it nice. PS - It now lives in the Garage with the other Hard Top and Rag Top. Thanks Chad
I would lean strongly toward painting the whole car. You will pretty much negate the "original paint" value with that much "touch-up." Even if the color match is spot on, it will still probably be apparent that some panels are new paint and some old paint. Lastly, it's not gonna cost much more to do the whole car than a couple of panels. I believe that by 72 new cars were enamel, but not sure... JMHO
i run a dupont paint store, i know they have done away with laquer for the most part other then primers and such, i will have to agree that matching the color can be dam near impossible do to the age of the car. the only posible way to match it would be to have a paint store use one of the color analyzers and do it in base coat clear coat like all the new cars have, if u decide to repaint the car i highly recomend doing it this way also. especially if it is a metallic color because wetsanding and buffing a metallic enamel color can be difficult sometimes. it is a little more costly, but worth it for depth of color and shine.dan
You will never ever ...ever match a 33 year old paint job! Lacquer and enamel are obsolete paints ...today most are Urethane . To come close first buff your old paint than try to tint is it as close as possable.
Thank you all for the input. The car is non-metallic sandlewood. It looks like the correct thing to do is a complete re-paint. The cost is not a driving factor. It is the time to do the job and the size of the car. (72 LeSabre) Just want to get rid of the ugly rust. As the saying goes, "If your goning to do it, do it right" Regards, Chad
Do it in Lacquer Duracryl acrylic lacquer is still available. I just bought some. Lacquer is what the car came with and will make the car preserve its classic look. The other paints make it look well. repainted, changed, updated, modernized etc. Lacquers is easy to touch up, and rub out scratches that you will get if you drive the car. Gary
There is a guy on Ebay who sells Hawthorne "Rayflex" Acrylic Enamel for $35 a gallon. Its a single stage paint but he also sells clear coat if you want to go a step farther. Newer paints are 'better' but they almost look to good. Like dude was saying above. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZpaintforcars
Back in the day (1987) when I still had my GSX I got the crazy idea that I could fog-over the rock-chips and door dings that had accumulated over 150k miles of daily driving and less than TLC. A little research produced a company selling R&M Acrylic Lacquer in Q-Q Saturn Yellow. Without even a color-match the color was perfect, even after 17 years in the hard California sun. After the fog-over and a little rub-out (like lacquer needs) the crazy idea didn't seem too crazy afterall.
Lacquer Rocks! Yea, Im going to try it on my 73 lesabre, there are some spots that need touched. Im confident Ill get similar results as you had. Heres another thread weve been talking lacquer. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=78024
Thanks again for the data. Where can one get Lacquer Paint? What is a good primer for Lacquer? In areas where the factory paint is still good do I need to strip to metal or can I rough it up then prime and paint? Sorry for the basic questions, but my experience is with 2 stage catalyzed clear coat finishes. The old school stuff intrigues me, and gives a classic look and appeal. Thanks Chad
http://autocolorlibrary.com/cmg/cmg.html Duracryl Acrylic Lacquer Primer is Kondar primer surfacer. 1. Wax and Grease remover 2. Wet sand 320 grit 3. Kondar where needed and 320 4. Wax and grease remover 5. Tack cloth 6. Shoot 2 coats let it dry (5 min) wet sand 400 repeat 2 or 3 times.... 7. Thin lacquer and shooot final coat, wet sand 600 or 1000 8. Rubbing compound 9. Swirl remover Done
Great! How much paint to shoot a 72 LeSabre using the method outlined above? Would do a repaint including door jambs. The color is Sandle Wood. Thanks Again. Chad
I would say a gallon, thinned a little thinner than normal. Since you are shooting over the old paint you only need to put maybe two coats on. Make sure the paint is not checked or spider webbed or you should strip it in those spots. You cant go wrong with lacquer. If you make a mistake you just let it dry, sand it and shoot it again. Same if your car ever gets scratched. Wet sand, shoot, wet sand, buff. No need to strip and paint a whole panel like what I hear is needed with modern paints. Only thing if its metallic paint, make sure you keep the paint well mixed in the gun and overlap your passes good to avoid striping. Lets see a pic of your ride Gary
Thanks for the info. Here is the LeSabre (350-2) and the 72 Skylark coupe (350-4). Behind me is the 71 convert(350-2). And the 455 on the stand is targeted to go into the ragtop. Lot of fun. Thanks Again! Chad
At work now. I can load a high res image of same shot if you like. Has a good amount of detail on both cars. You can see the cancer on the LeSaber. Have a new fender and can do light metal work on quarter. Passanger side is the bad side. Just don't want to slow down the post. Let me know. The green is a Old Jaguar color if I remember. Used Sikkens 2 part system. Chad
Hi There , lacquer paint are not dead and probably the better for older version cars. there are a few people selling what they call lacquer paint but most of the paint sold is not laquer.we have the original lacquer avilable for all cars .
Opinions on this stuff? Paint Shop Finish System gives you everything you need to create a high-quality DIY finish primer, color and clear. Its a high-quality lacquer system designed for automotive and motorcycle applications. Paint Shop is easy to apply, dries quickly and can be buffed to a brilliant smooth finish. Paint Shop is a ready-to-spray system, so no mixing or reducing is required. And with no re-coat window, additional coats can be applied at anytime. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html ElectraJim
some one on another Buick site had used this with fair results....I did research it...laquer is one of the easiest paints to apply and if you make a mistake...you wait 15 mins wet sand and re-shoot...Draw backs are...no chemical resistnace...prone to chipping...fades...cracks over time...a gallon on laquer paint only contains about 20 % solid material so 80% of what you spray evaporates...that product is ready to spray so that contians only about 10% solids.....laquer also has to be sanded and polsihed...where a 2 stage urethane shot in dust free condition I can get to lay out smooth wan require no buffing or sanding...even on a Black car
