What are you guys using to stroke you BBB, what crank, rods pistons ext. also how many cubes dose it make it, I understand if you dont want to share you combo, I was just looking around today and every thing seemed really pricey, even for a buick so I was just wondring if you have and combo that are good, thanks Gary
My Block is bored to 4.350 My Crank is a custom billet from Moldex w/ 4.25 stroke This makes 505ci. Rods are Aluminum GRP 6.80 long and Custom Venolia pistons.
525 w/moldex 1/2 stroker 494 w/stock crank offset ground to chevy sb rod small lournal 482 w/stock crank offset ground to chevy sb rod large journal 470 w/stock crank offset ground to chevy bb rod we have them all and in a light car I think I like the 482 with 6.8" al rods best. a heavy car ,like 3400+, I like the big moldex with al rods I run the 494 in Scat w/ steel rods but it would be just as quick with the 482 and the rod journals are fatter for more strength gary
Thanks for your info. I heard that Moldex is not to easy to deal with, also how much do they hit you for a crank. I should have also mentioned that I want to run steel rods and not alum. No much street driving for that, Thanks again, Gary
I wonder why they offer these with a SB Chevy rod journal and not BBC?Isnt small block rod journal too small? Thanks
I had a 523" built by AM&P. It is for the street,a pumpgas engine (compression 10.4:1). I used a Moldex 4.4 strok crank and went .038 over bore. We used Eagle steel 7.1 rods(Chevy), with JE pistons. I haven't finished the car yet,but it made very good numbers on the dyno.The engine is on AM&P's website under dynoed engines. Mike Nussell
I believe they are now around $3k. You just have to allow alot of lead time,Or contact TA Perf. They have been known to stock a few Billet Cranks. Steel rods are no problem,Just a different application. What are your plans? Racecar?Street/Strip?
George the csb rod journal is only 2" there fore you get a 1/4" stroke,the cbb rod journal is larger giving only a small stroke increase,yes 1/4" stroke may make the stock bbb crank too weak with a 2" rod journal,but I haven't had any problems relating to this.Others have some concern.Thats why I think the csb large end journal may make more sense since it leaves the bbb crank bigger and still yields 482 inches. gary
Ok now i understand it i was alittle concerned when someone told me about the small rod journals thanks for the info.
Mine would be a street peeler, that would find its way to the track from time to time. I would like to use the stock crank, but if you do that it looks like your looking at custom rods, if you offset grind the crank is there any rods that will go in it, or is it going to have to be custom made?
No more so than a 2.250,Using the Stock Crank has it's risks. But,There are many guys running 494's for years now. If done right the smaller Journal could theoretically end up stronger,You can get a really nice radius on the journal when it's turned. I would guess that many failures w/ Stock Cranks happen when something else goes wrong. That said,Billet/Aftermarket will always stand up to more power/abuse than the Stock piece.
Not stupid at all. Just think of the outside of the rod journals/bearing surface where it transitions to the counterweight. From the factory there isn't much radius which is more prone to fatigue/cracking. As you offset grind to gain stroke you can also improve strength by leaving a larger radius.
I have a used offset ground buick crank with 2" rod journal, .010 under mains with Carrillo rods for sale. I believe the rods are 6.8" long. It's internally balanced. Email me directly if you want further information.
Its a csb,and for steel I'd use crower,for al. I use Bill Miller.You'll need custom pistons and rods for pin placement on the piston and rod length,I like to use long rods,better rod angle and the piston is at TDC slightly longer. gary
If you are building a new engine and need new rods and pistons anyway, are there any good reasons not to stroke? I realize that coin spent on heads is of utmost importance, but if you alreay have that, wouldn't a few hundred dollars spent on a 482 or 494 be worth some "easy" power numbers? o No: Anything wrong with a local competent machine shop offset grinding a good crank, and purchasing some bolt-in aluminum rods and JE pistons from TA?