I shot my 72 with Black epoxyprimer yesterday, results were good. Went over the car 3 times and used about a gallon. Used a Devilbiss Starting line gun with a 1.8 tip. 30 psi regulated into the gun. If anyone can lend their experience here, I would welcome any advice because I am learning as I go. Driveway job. 1) I notice that the primer is going on just a tiny bit "textured", and dries not Entirely smooth. Is this normal for epoxy primer? I did not reduce it at all, I wanted it to build a little to cover imperfectons. Would reducing it a little smooth it out? Should I even worry about it? I was thinking of maybe sanding prior to applying the topcoat. Maybe I am moving too fast, not laying enough in a pass? 2) The epoxy has dried overnight and looks great. However I do notice a difference (slight) in the appearance where the epoxy lays over filler or bare metal or primer. Is the cure for this simply more primer? Or will the color even out when the topcoat is applied? (single stage, satin black) Would sanding before another coat of epoxy help? I will have more questions I am sure.... thanks in advance Ken G.
1) scuff it up slightly and go.... 2) the slight scuffing will make it blend with the rest no worry the body filler sucks the primer up a bit .. imo if your going black color I dont think you will have any problems with the differ shade where there is filler or if you want you can lightly zap those areas with the black before you start ballet dancing with the gun and watch your wind direction :TU: oops ..I seen you mention 3 coats of primer ...yea scuff it with scuff pads
epoxy primer is not used to fill or hide imperfections. It is used for its ability to stick - and is a foundation for other body work. If you want a quality finish I would recommend using a primer/surfacer over the epoxy then block sand that down. The surfacer will bridge the gaps (if they are small enough) between the metal and filler.
Bingo. Before sanding the primer-surfacer, dust a very light coat of a contrasting primer color over the primer surfacer. The contrasting color will remain in the scratches and low spots, showing you where more work needs to be done. This is called a "guide coat": http://www.ehow.com/video_2200685_apply-guide-coat-car-restoration.html Devon
For best results the mixture needs to be the right viscosity, and the gun settings need to be optimized. Reducing the mixture will help the paint to flow out once it is applied to the surface. The paint gun settings will also affect how finely atomized the spray is. Turning the fluid control out further, or increasing air pressure may help. There is a great series of articles called the 'basics of basics' here: http://www.autobodystore.com/martinsr.shtml And an article about gun settings here: http://www.autobodystore.com/ms6.shtml
Hit the nail on the head. My compressor and lines werent providing enough psi to the gun over a longer spray. And the gun was set "not quite right". I bumped the compressor regulator to 40 psi which achieved a 40-25psi spraying range at the gun inlet, and made basic adjustments to the gun. But first I sanded smooth with 150 grit, got rid of runs and sags, and paid attention to where there was some contrast. Shot the last gallon of my epoxy on there and results are a vast improvement. verry little texture, no contrast at the bodywork, very smooth. I will sand smooth again and I'll be ready for my topcoat. Three last questions: 1) In some places I can see a difference in "sheen" between two spray strokes, ie directional "lines" that indicate the strokes. Am I not overlapping my strokes enough? Whats the cure? 2) Any suggestions on how to best spray the roof? I have been spraying one side then moving to the other and completing the spray. This has tended to leave me the telltale stripe from #1 down the center of the roof. I was thinking a stepladder might help me reach? 3) what is it about this stuff that brings the insects in hordes? I swear theyre trying to drink my paint. Thanks all for your posts. PS thanks for the links
Either the coats are too light, or the paint is drying too fast. I would add some reducer to the mix. That will slow down the drying time and allow each pass to blend in with the previous. 50% overlap is the general standard. Each coat should look 'wet' after you do the overlap. To get a smooth coat, a thicker paint mixture will need to be applied heavier than a paint mixture that has been reduced. Experiment a little till you find the best balance. One more thought... if you are spraying outside in the sun, the cars surface will get too hot and paint will dry too fast.
Thanks. I was trying for a 50% overlap but I bet I was closer to 30%. Also the 80 deg temp was on the high side of the range for my stuff. Maybe that helped it dry quicker. I was in the shade, no direct sunlight at all. I think the topcoat will be a bit thinner. I will keep an eye on it and adjust as needed. Basically what I am understanding is I need it to stay wet a little longer to let me finish my sprays.
I would never spray epoxy on with that kind of film build. When it's applied like that it never fully cures. It's best to use one med. wet coat, then follow with a 2K urethane primer or sealer. To tell if it is cured, hit it with some dry sand paper, maybe around 220 or 320 and if it balls up bad that tells you it's still kind of green.
My topcoats are now complete and I thought I would give the rundown. Acrylic Urethane mixed 4:1 sprayed thru a 1.3 tip at 50 psi regulated at the compressor. I had hand sanded the whole car with 220 prior to topcoat. Nice and smooth Testing sprays led me to reduce my topcoat 10% to get it to flow together better. The 1st coat of topstuff went on ok, but with some of the same texture I had occurring with the primer, and with some of the "spray lines" I mentioned as well. I think the abraded surface I was spraying onto "soaked up" some of the coat. I was within the 18 hour recoat window so I did not sand prior to my final coat. This resulted in a much wetter final coat, much improved texture and very little spray lines. 20/20 hindsight being what it is, I can see that my undersized compressor and lines were just not supplying enough air to the guns to achieve proper atomization, thus my "texture". Thats ok I have learned a lot doing the job. So I am pleased with my results, they were what I expected for my driveway job and just fine for my car. WOW is it ever black! Look for my post in the coming weeks I will post pics of my results when I get the car back together. I hope to be on the road in time for the Aug 15 Marcus Dairy Cruise, and some of the August cruise nights at Marks Used Auto. Hope this thread helps someone trying a paint job in the drive. :3gears:
