I thought Swarf was that Klingon guy on Star Trek.... I've gotten swarf in my hands before. Takes a nujmber of days to work itself out and everytime you touch it .......oh I don't even like to think about it...it hurts and you can't see it to go get it out.
Here's the swarf-maker: 1" at a time, offset-grinding a 455 crank to a 2" pin: Line hone: Like most machine shops, BBC's and industrial stuff are a staple. The comments from the peanut galley about a BBB included that the torque plate that I supplied weighed more than the block, and the block was like a tissue box. :laugh: Balancing is next, we'll install the cam bearings and assemble the short-block. Custom SRE aluminum pan is being built, and then it will be off to the dyno. Chris, by the time this gets back into the car, it WILL be next year. :beer
Geez... I didn't know there was a contest taking place! I need to visit here more often, I could've won! Anyway, that pile is 8 or 10 inches across, probably an inch deep. Back when I used to do more of these offset grinds, I found it entertaining to weigh the crank before and after... I didn't this time. Don't do too many offsets any more, the import market seems to have most of the bases covered for the common stroker combos for SB/BB Chevy and Ford. Buicks... well, that's another story. Bob's project is coming along nicely so far. It'll be interesting for me to play with it on the dyno. My niche is big inch marine BB Chevys, but it's always fun to do something out of the ordinary. :laugh:
Nice Radius, did you get 4.150 stroke? Nice pistons and rods, is it going to be int balance? It won't take much mallory. You also might want to consider dowel pins for the main caps. In the pic I attached you can see the dowel pins. Chris
You can't install a girdle after the main line is done, it has to be installed after block fill if used, and before any machine work is done. Chris
No girdle or fill. I'm hoping the light reciprocating mass (ie aluminum rods and custom JE pistons) will help this live. It's not going to be seeing too much track time or more than 6000 rpm. I'm going to run an oil balance line from the pressure switch area to the right rear lifter galley. For every positive there is about main saddle grooving, doweling the mains, etc, there seems to be negatives too. Given the intended application, I think (hope!) it will be just fine. Besides, with Jay's expert machine work, what could go wrong? I just have to wait for a sandstorm to assemble it. :grin:
No, the 350 trans in the red convertible broke. The only things that broke in the white car so far have been the bronze distributor gear and the BG 400 fuel pump.
Radius is about .125". Turning down the journal that far, and increasing the width to obtain proper side clearance leaves enough room to increase the radius nicely. Bob will be running a narrowed rod bearing to accomodate the .125 radius. Stroke wound up at 4.146. When offsetting any crankshaft, you're working from the existing stroke. You can only increase the stroke by an amount equal to or less than the amount by which you're decreasing the journal diameter... .250" in this case. That being said, any deviation in the existing stock stroke must be accounted for when the offset work is performed... ie: if the stroke of a given a journal is 3.896" to begin with, you're increasing stroke by .254" to obtain 4.150" ... can't be done by removing .250" from the journal diameter. Also, any wear on the existing journal plays into this equation in the respect that it decreses the amount of material you are left to work with to obtain the desired stroke. The first step in the offsetting process is to measure the existing diameter and stroke of each journal, and pre determine a stroke which we know is obtainable at the desired finished journal size. In Bob's case, his crank displayed only minor deviations from the stock 3.900" stroke, but it did show some existing wear on the rod journals. The full 4.150 stroke would have been obtainable at a .010" undrsize, or 1.989" diameter. Being that Bob had already purchased standard rod bearings, we "cheated" him out of .004" stroke to make it work with his standard bearings. I don't think he's going to feel it in the seat of his pants. Balance is external. The crank would have required two 1" diameter slugs of tungsten in each end. The rear counterweight is especially difficult to install tungsten in because of the size/height of the "shoe" on the flywheel flange, which would require additional machining. Machining the flange also removes additional weight which will increase the amount of weight which needs to be added to the counterweight. In the spirit of keeping it cheap and simple, we opted to keep it external.
