Hi there! The TSM shows cast rockers oiled through the rocker shaft mounts and single valve springs (no inner springs). The heads I removed have stamped steel rockers oiled through the pushrods. The heads I am building have the oiling ports in the shaft mounts. My question: is one system better than the other? Single or double springs? I'm swapping heads because this motor blows head gaskets every two years, always at the long rear water jacket ports, even after decking. Thanks!
I prefer the later style pushrod oiling system, I also prefer the valve springs with the dampers. They made these changes for good reason, the later 350s have many upgrades. Just make use you use all the correct lifters, pushrods and rockers for which ever style you pick.
If you har having head to block sealing issues can I a couple of questions? You say that you have decker the block, but have you milled the heads to asure they are flat a well? What head gasket(s) are you using? What head bolts are you using and are you torquing them in the proper sequence? Is teh engine in the rig or on an engine stand? How many miles do you travel in those two years?
Currently I have a 1970 Buick 350v8 block with 1972 buick heads that I had modified to plug the smog air tubes that I didn't need. The 1970 blocks on had a better oiling system through the rockers and push rods than the 1969-69 Buick v8's. If your heads are built right and trued, you shouldn't be having issues with blown head gaskets, it's always that extra buck that cures the rebuilt heads. Also ensure the new used heads are magnafluxed for cracks. Friend in Oakland just blew his head gasket on his original engine this weekend in his 1969 J-2000, I need to get him into this forum as well. Mac
yeah, tell us what gaskets you are using... I have never had a leak with the fel-pros but the steel shim have caused me issues...
Thanks for all the replies! Yes, the block and heads were milled last time I had the motor out, four years ago I think. The machine shop told me they were warped. Fel-Pro gaskets, not the steel shims, torqued in pattern to spec, OEM bolts. Using a different set of heads this time, retained the later steel rockers, pushrods, and damped springs. Haven't started it yet. While the Jeep was down I swapped out the front drum brakes for discs, added a four barrel intake and Q-jet with manual choke, rhino grill, finished the headlight wiring upgrade, made mounts for the foglights and an extension for the hood release. Firing it up today.
Well, that was weird... Between Easter prep at church and the wet weather, the jeep has been sidelined. Tried to check compression and the gauge kept getting blown out the hole, like something was igniting in there. Pulled the intake, same thing. Will antifreeze ignite under pressure, like diesel? I will try again today after pumping out the water jacket and putting in new head gaskets. Heads look flat.
Hey, how's the proj going??? One thing-- be careful if you switch to the '70 and later oiling-- you may need different lifters as well, I can't remember if the older ones have holes in the plunger for sending the oil up the pushrod.... Also, you need to plug the holes in the block which send the oil to the valvetrain on early engines when converting to later oiling... Do a search on the small block section to get the scoop...
Way too many distractions this summer. Still working on getting decent brakes. The engine runs great, unreal how smooth it idles. Blocked the oil feeds in the heads. Reworked a junkyard steel fan shroud to fit and added a 19" flex fan. Rewiring the dash with a Caddy fuse block and replaced all the wiring at the back end. Took out the slop in the tilt column. It's getting there.
