This is a 1970 Jeep Wagoneer, 42K original miles, 3.73 Posi dana 44 Turbo 400 Auto. Start up was perfect. fired on the first try, -4 degrees then bumped to +8. The Holley rebuild Rochester ran perfectly and idlemixture screws were perfect. I am very impressed with the Holley Rochester 64-7778, Choke performed perfectly. OH MY GOD THE POWER! Unbelievable. Scared the living daylights out of my wife who drives daisy on a daily basis. This lil old Buick motor coughed and sputtered when we first floored it, rev'd hard and had power through out the power band. After about 1 hour of driving and "blowing the carbon off the pistons" Diasy was smooth as silk. I am shocked what this conversion has done the throttle response. Oil pressure at start up was 75 and settled to (see pic) at temp after idling for some time. I used 15w40 rotella for this first start to make sure I had good pressure. I do have good pressure and if this pressure is any indication I will be dropping to 10w30 in a week. Oil pressure while driving is 75lbs. Pics removed I dont have enough posts o have that previ yet ZERO LEAKS! Not a single one anywhere. We flushed lots of crud out of the radiator, installed high silicone heater hoses. The 195 thermostat. I did take a dremel to the water pump and smoothed edges and casting flash off the empeller. Dont know if it helped but I removed plenty of junk off an otherwise Top end style water pump. Interesting, hopefully helpful hints to others that do this up grade. Holley carb was 253.00 through summit Gates radiator hoses LOL the bottom one fits perfect on top and the top one can fit the bottom, But if you use the TA performance steel plate and the TA performance oil pump cover and gears then it will reposition the oil filter directly in front of the lower rad inlet. SO this forces you to use a shorty style filter and the generic all purpose radiator hose. Oil pump clearances: My clearences ended up being about .00165. DOnt forget to fill your gears with vasoline! My 18 volt cordless handled the priming like a champ. Not a single problem. Get new bolts! I bought the 99 dollar bolt package from TA performance! I cleaned every bolt hole! I also used antisieze on every bolt. I also used a torque wrench on every bolt. I painted and baked every piece. Remove the guide pins! otherwise it will force you to drop the oil pan. You dont need them I also used Ultra black RTV sealant. front and back of every gasket except the oil pump. I used Xylene to clean every part and mating surface. I just couldnt be more pleased with the results. Whats left: I want to go factory look air intake. I bought a junk yard intake from a 430-4 barrel and the snorkel run in to the a/c compressor. I cut the tip of it off to fit but it looks like hammered doo doo. I have decided to remove the snorkel all together. and will cut another oval on the passenger side so it will look like a factory performance style air cleaner. I will post pics of that later.
By null at 2011-02-06 By null at 2011-02-06 By null at 2011-01-30 By null at 2011-01-30 By null at 2011-02-06
I am running royal purple now 10w30. Right off the highway to idle I am at 30lbs down the highway 73-75lbs She only has 42k miles on her
Where are you located? I have a stock air cleaner assembly (455-4) that just needs some paint that I could give up cheap if you're local. Just incase the custom one you're making isn't the way you hoped in the end.
So convert it over to the Buick style :bla: Just messin with you. It should be interesting to see how you get by without just switching to an aftermarket. I'd probably go with an open element cleaner just to make it easier, but I am the lazy type :laugh:
Technically speaking we can run both the Original Buick style Air Cond. Compressor and also the additional Jeep Buick York Compressor on the Drivers Side. I converted my Jeep York Style compressor to an On-Board-Air with a pressure switch and an air tank for inflating tires or camp equipment after wheeling in the Sierra's and rock crawling in my 1970 J-3000 Gladiator. With your additional cast pulley on top of the harmonic balancer, all pulleys can be used for the both air compressors. Do you still have the original idler pulley attachment that attaches to the coil and water pump dealer installed bracket. BTW nice Buick RED engine! I just finished replacing my engine 3 weeks ago with a new TA Perf RV-12 Camshaft and lifters, runs good, just need to adjust my original spec Rochester 2 bbl. Carb. adjust float levels etc.. Mac
Yes I have pics I will psot tonight of her. yes I have all the original pulleys etc. I just rebuilt the two idler pulleys with new bearings. After fourty years she still has r-12 freon and pumps cool, I will install some more r-12 to top her off.
holds pressure well and considering i started off with a spotless 40k miles motor, it does very well. I tore my front crank seal installing the TC, so I have to redo it in a few weeks. 35-45lbs at idle hot and 75 lbs driving I use royal in my 911 air cooled engine. Does very well in all i know
Very nice ride. Should you run across another set of idlers and the plate that runs across the front of the engine I could use it for my pickup. Jim
