They're still out there waiting in the back corner of a Barn near you

That's Cool!! IMHO, it needs to have the trim put back on and left alone/ran as-is.

 

Agreed - looks like someone was getting ready to paint it...glad they got stopped.

I'd love to know how the 425/400 setup runs, or how it's set up - no engine pics...

Hell, a CA rust free 52 Olds Club coupe with NO drivetrain or race history has to be worth all of 5400.00, at least to a rust-belter like me....

 

new brakes

 

blasted,turned,painted,and I machined them for 4 3/4 bolt circle

 

and the wheel/tire/drum combo

 

I'm not sure that the paint you used on the drums will dissipate heat properly on a (or several) hard stop(s). Something to think about. You've got a nice looking car.

 

Its o.k., then they will match the rest of the car. That's the beauty of building something like this, nothing has to be nice or it doesn't "fit" the car.

 

That wheel/tire combination is perfect.....what are you doing for the rears?

 

Steel wheels painted the darker green(cove color) with the white wall cheater slicks.

 

They were somewhere in Ohio as I recall seeing license plate frames with the Remlinger name on them when visiting my brother in the Cleveland area. Never took the time to look them up.

 

Here are the motor mounts.
I *just* got done welding the motor mount perches to the frame.
Someone asked me to post photo's,so here they are.

I mocked the engine up with Ram Air Restoration RAIII manifolds, and they clear the steering box,but it's tight,and I had to trim the upper control arm near the bushing on the passenger side just a little.

The mounts on the block I made from 3 1/2" C channel, and trimmed 1 side off, making it look like a letter "P" when looking down, or a reversed "P" on the driver side. They are 9" long and will have a dual bolt pattern drilled to go on both old, and newer blocks.

The frame perches were made from 3" C channel, and I rounded the front near the rubber mount.
The rubber mounts are some core support bushings I had for an "A" body, and I made a hardened steel bushing/sleeve to go between the block mount and perch. If this rubber is too squishy, I have some hard durometer rubber at work that I can make some new ones from.
That's all for today, making the trans mount/cross member is next.

 

Remlinger was Canton Ohio, some 60 miles south of Cleveland. We moved there in 1957 or 58 from Michigan.

 

Tom - Are you sticking with the 370, or going later model 389/400/421/455?

 

I believe Tom was thinking 400 or 455

A 364 LS with custom valve covers and a carb would be cool, but I've been on a LS kick

 

Little something for everybody here: Not quite a stocker, but I still think it makes the cut.....

http://bangshift.com/blog/gasser-ba...-air-dgas-426-max-wedge-mopar-power-epic.html

 

Bought some Sanderson headers for a 67-69 Firebird, and had to modify the steering column just a bit for clearance, along with the upper A arm on the passenger side with a mild depression in the first tube.
Made the trans cross member, and made the original shift linkage work with a custom lower shift shaft bracket.
Made the transmission cross member.
Modified the inside of the trans tunnel(X frame car) and installed a 1 piece Drive shaft.

Time to pull the engine apart and get it ready to run.

These Sanderson headers are the first set of Headers I've bought in over 15 years:eek2:

 

Nice work, Tom.

Are you gonna get that other yellow car ready for June?
With your mild depression and custom lower shift shaft, it could be a challenge.
You can do it.

 

"They're still out there waiting in the back corner of a Barn near you"

God I hope so cause that's where I left em'

 

Hoarder :bla:

 

My folks have the barn, but it only has a Model A stake bed dually hiding in it.ou:

Tom, you have a problem...... a good problem, but still a problem!!!! At least you have them in shelter!!!:TU: