Hello to all! I am sure this is a repeat question but...... I'm looking for the best way to drop my 65' GS . Front now and maybe rear later. Drop spindles or coils? I cruise the car a lot, no ralley driving Thanks for the vast wealth of knowledge and opinions !!! Jim
If you're not looking to make it a handler, just go with the lowering springs. You'll save a ton of money that way and get the look you're after. Pair them with some decent shocks and you should be fine for a cruiser and still have money in your pocket. If you're after better handling, you can go as mild as tall ball joints, or completely all out. The sky and your budget are the limits.
X2. I have 2 inch (front) and 1 inch (rear) drop coils from OPGI in my 69 GS convert, and they work great. Relatively inexpensive too. My 61 has air ride, not so inexpensive, lol. Not sure if you have drum or disc brakes, or what bolt on kits are available in dropped spindles for the 65 GS, but springs were easy.
Well.... If I could I would go "all out". But I think I'll try the lower springs and take it from there..... I am waiting for 17" x 8" Year One cast aluminum Magnums w/ 255 - 45 at the rear and 225 - 45 at the front to arrive. The springs will be later...... I do have discs up front but may have to do the shocks when I do the springs.......Thanks for the advice ! :TU: Jim
Depends on how lucky you are. I got the 2" dropped spindles and stock springs. Attached everything lowered car..it's still to high. ou:Tear up front again, cut one coil...too much.:af: So I just got the qa1 and set height..perfect. :beer Now the last car I lowered, cut springs and it was perfect. Thought I could do the same with this...nope.
Money aside, the best way to drop is using spindles first because the geometry doesn't change and ride quality remains the same.
I say stock spindle tall upper lower BJ (usualy half inch drop) spc tubular arms (lower = 1inch drop) drop spring if your choice (1 to 3inch drop) ontop of all that drop you made your car handle extremely well compared to stock
X2 with your choice of Ridetech, Speedtech, SPC or DSE upper arms to correct geometry. You can stay with your lower arms with new bushings and boxing if you desire. Depends on your budget.
Even less $$$ than drop springs...................... Cut one coil off your stock springs. This will also increase your spring rate a bit, which would be good for old springs. Only cost is for new cotter pins.
any spindle worth its metal will change geometry afx spindles by speed tech changes both camber and bumpster within the spindle The L&H Kustom spindle just changes camber while their steering arm changes bumpsteer stock spindle has stock geometry add tall ball jointd and your close to the afx and L&H Kustoms spindle but fraction of cost Tall upper balljoint gains camber Tall lower tall balljoint reduces bumpsteer If you swap to lets say a B-body spindle you possibly made your bumpsteerand camber worse (as its geomtry for B-body and not A-body) and also have a chance of tierod to hit A-arm? and or hit wheel depending if you have wider then stock rims or certain backspace ---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:01 PM ---------- DSE makes you buy their arms with their spindle..cant buy seperatly also i ve read(how to make a muscle car handle book) they messed up the geometry within their spindle(just a-body) which is why i have DSE rear setup and not DSE for front