I have been thinking of doing this for a while after I bought my Regal. I have a 12 Bolt for the Skylark. I was wondering if any of you guys have done this? I know I will have to change the spring mounts and might have to bring in the lower control arm mounts. If I can swing it I will go coil over and mount them to the tubes. I would rather trade it for a 10 Bolt 8.5 GN rear but that is hard to find. I would like to find a good used 4 spring 3 series posi carrier so any way you guys can help with your used parts would be appreciated. Give me some ideals and let's work together to do this the cheapest way possible. I know this rear is wider but that should make 4.5 back spacing rims fit perfect! The stock rims are 3.5 BS.
Upper control arm ears are at a different angle also, so ive always been told and read,you'll need the conversion arms or use the sperical bushings to correct that
UMI uses adjustables with sphericals http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_60_68&products_id=77 or Baseline http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm
Yea I've seen those but I was thinking about welding a bar across there and welding brackets to it which would give it more support. So that 72 rear should be an 8.5 gear and parts are available for it?
anything and everything is available, I wouldn't go trying to reinvent the wheel tho, just go with that Baselinekit that reinforces the upper mounts or get one of the many kits out there for the g body TRZ has a nice UCA and LCA reinforcement setup, a bar tying the upper pockets together is standard procedure on G and A body for heavy strip duty
I was looking up gears and seen they showed 8.2 from 64-72 so by the cover can you tell if that's an 8.2 or 8.5? If it's an 8.2 i will pobably look for an 8.5 or a 12 bolt.
By the look and the pinion nut 1 1/4" it's an 8.5. The code on the axle tube is LK B110 2 as far as I can read and haven't found that code yet on any site but still looking. Where are the build codes in the car?
LKB is a peg leg 2.56 according to the 72 Buick Chassis Manual. Stock rear is an 8.5, should have straps and bolts holding the rear u joint to the yoke.
Yes straps with bolts. The guy I bought it from gave me a copied manual and I can't find the chart with LK on it anywhere. I have a page that shows where to find it but no chart. But the chart I do have shows all with 8.5 in 72. Does that one have bolt in axles?
I found 2 pages but none with Skylarks so I copied yours. I just tacked to a friend that said he thinks he can get ahold of a Trans Am Posi unit so he will see tonight. I will just use stock axles till I start racing it more.
Yeah, that will work. When I was building my 1971 8.5 out of a GS350, I contacted Monzaz as he builds a lot of 8.5's, and he gets the axles from Moser. He gave me an invoice number and I called them, told them to reference that invoice number, then said, "give me a pair of those":grin: Ordered a new Eaton 30 spline posi, 3.73 Yukon gears, and a TA cover.
Helical? You mean cone type? No, it uses clutches. It works just fine for me. Why not use a spool if this is a Racecar?
It's a driver. You see in my signature Regal with a 307 and needs a 455. I want a nice street car for now and am working on a 455 to build for it and a 2004r. GS Fred Just put a GN rear on here and I have ask him for a trade.
I can build that LKB for around that or less and have a strong axle. Do you know the right way to build a support to hold the axle housing straight when welding the tubes?
Unless you plan on doing more than 3 rearends youd be better off to send it to a chassis shop, otherwise your gonna spend $500 to buy the kit or at least $300 to make one due to the material cost and machine work involved, I put together a true bar using 1.250 STAINLESS bar and stainless bushings if I wasn't very good friends with a machinist who made the bushings and provided the material my setup would have cost $500 in just material let alone the machine time, the kits you buy use cold rolled 1in bar with aluminum bushings which will work cheapest I found was $485. Chassis shops charge $125 to weld tubes but if plan on doing it do yourself a favor and put 9in ford ends on it with the GM bolt pattern