I wanted to post this for anyone needing a stock type replacement for a 455 clutch adjuster. I cannot take credit for this as the idea was given to me by member Paul Massicotte. I did add the jam nut however. All you need is NAPA 732-1129 Spherical rod end, a 3/8" exhaust manifold stud. Fine thread on one end and course on the other. I tried several different stud lengths. I ended up using a 3" and cut 1/2" off the fine end. You need to tailor the length to your clutch. Some of the trunions out there may have fine threads as well. In that case you need to get a stud with all fine threads. Make sure the stud you get has a thin blank section in the middle not the thick section like I show in the picture for comparison or it will not work. I am not sure when the clutch wears if I will need to thread the stud out or in to adjust. Now it is threaded all the way in. If it needs to go in more you can just cut it some more. You could also try a 2 1/8" stud. All adjustment will need to be at the Rod end near the clutch fork. It is too bad they do not make the studs with a long course and short fine. I use the jam nut to tighten with two 9/16" open end wrenches to keep the stud from moving on its own. I am not sure if it will but it cannot hurt. Also My clutch pedal appears to need more effort to push now. Maybe because there is no rubber bushing anymore. Tell me what you think. This could solve a lot of problems for some guys. Thanks again to Paul M.
For all of you spelling weanies out there I know I spelled adjuster wrong. I have happy fingers.:moonu:
Thanks for posting, I was just talking about this setup today. Yeah, Paul Massicote is very knowledgeable when it comes to 4 speed Buicks and a helpful guy to boot.
Been running this setup for years; very smooth engagement;very adjustable; no rubber to go crappy on ya.
Brad, My rubber went crappy like you said. Do you need to turn the stud out from the rod end to adjust or in (tighter) with clutch wear. Not sure on this.
Dave, Thanks for the plug. I must say, I can't take credit for the part. It goes to Brad and Mike Prybell back on the board before one of the crashes. Just glad I was able to help. And I wanted to let you know, mine had the jamb nut. I was under there last weekend and noticed it. It definitely is required, as mine had backed off and increased the free play at the pedal and loosening the engagement at the clutch.
Thanks to Brad and Mike as well.............I thought the jamb nut was a good idea to be safe. Even if it was not needed it does not hurt anything.
Hey: I was reading this post and thought to myself, this is the answer to my problem that i've been trying to figure out what i was gonna do. I went to my local napa and bought a spherical rod end and it will fit and work perfect from what i can tell so far. I am wondering since a few of you guys have done this before if someone has or would take a pic or 2 of theirs installed and post it I would be mighty grateful! Have a great day! Keith
Keith, Here is a picture of the adjuster that I put together ~7-8 years ago. Like the other guys have said, it works well and has better "feel" in the clutch linkage.
Dave, did you ever figure out the answer to this? I do this adjustment about once a decade by trial and error 'cuz I'm too dumb to remember what a pen and paper are for. In Scott's photo above the only thing I see missing is a bit of lubrication on a few of those steel-on-steel parts. I've run a longer spring all the way back to the fork, which is where Buick did it.
[/QUOTE] In Scott's photo above the only thing I see missing is a bit of lubrication on a few of those steel-on-steel parts. I've run a longer spring all the way back to the fork, which is where Buick did it.[/QUOTE] Brad. I used KANO (Kroil) Penephite on the pivoting parts. Good stuff!
I made a similar arrangement for my Suncoupe's clutch. I also used a modified z bar from a 66 lark, and used parts from a 71 4 speed car. :3gears:Works good.
Hey: I was studying the pic you posted, looks simple enough to adapt to my car. I am wondering how you adjust the clutch when needed? I am assuming the rod swivel is threaded as is the spherical rod end? Have a great day1 Keith
Not to derail the thread, but where do you guys attach the return spring? On mine, the one end is going through the hole in the clevis so it eliminates the hair pin clip. The other end goes in a frame hole just above the engine cradle. The spring is on a bit of an angle
Mine also replaces the hair pin clip. Service manual shows a "bracket" for the spring to clip to on the end of the fork, which was probably held by the pin. I've not seen that alleged bracket after owning two four speed cars. I would imagine it being lost by the transmission monkey long ago. I run the other end of the spring (with a long leader) through header primaries to that hole in the frame you mention.