Anybody replace the bushings in their door hinges? At least one of mine is shot and needs to be replaced. The pin in there now is staked, would it be better to cut it or grind off the staked part. I do have new pins too. If I use a new pin any reason not to put it in 'upside down' (opposite of how the factory did it). I wouldn't have to worry about staking the new pin.
This is on my list for tomrow. Just pulled my fender, because I need to do some hinge work, adjust door, etc. Cut or grind doesn't matter. You don't want to put the pins in upside down, because they can fall out, unless you tack a spot weld, use a retainer clip, or something else.
Be sure and get the spring tool. It will help for a safer operation. You can get it from Hazard Fraught if you're only doing it once. I used my 460 Channel-Locks and a screwdriver. I'll never do it that way again.
I had the hinges, pins and bushings replaced on my GS this past summer at the same bodyshop that painted my car. It cost me $300 for both doors - upper & lower bushings and pins. Well worth it to have it done by pros. The fenders were not removed in the process.
Just did it a few days ago on the POS 86 F150. Piece O cake. sawzall'd off the top crimped end of the old one, drove it out and old bushings. tapped new ones in place then dropped in the pin. It came with a jesus clip to hold it in place. 15 mins in and out.
One of the door pins is upside down from the factory. It has the machined ears on it so it will not fall out. I have done several sets of hinges with big pliers. Then I borrowed the press and could not believe how easy it was. Change the roller on the lower hinge as well if you can find one. The drivers door hinge roller is always cocked.
Also if you use the big plier method put a wire in the spring and tie it off. False teeth are expensive.:TU:
Heh, when I did this to my driver's door hinges, we had those monster Channel-Locks and what I call the "Pry-Driver", a monster screwdriver. Both my son and I are fairly strong, but we dropped the hinge. It was shoe soles and elbows time then, as I was sure that thing was gonna grenade, given the strength of that spring. But it stayed together. I count myself lucky.
I used a roller from full size gm pickups you need to open up the holes a little and cut and weld the bottom but it works perfect and almost looks factory
I tried to rebuild and they needed to be welded and redrilled. Got some cheep chinese junk and they worked perfect. :grin: not a real complicated part.
Thanks for the replies but nothing is still coming up on the HF website. I'm gonna take a trip to one of their stores to ask. Thanks for posting the manual, that will help.
They are definitely in the stores, I bought 1 a few weeks ago...they had a ton of them! I would bring the pic with me, it's easier for them to see it than to describe it.
NAPA shows 2 of them listed on their web-site. One from Dorman, NAPA #NOE 7002581 (Dorman #38384) and a S&G Tool Aid Corp sold under the Balkamp brand, NAPA #BK 7703818 (S&G #87675).
