1964 Buick Skylark Convertible - Turbo LS6 Swap Build

Good deal, nice to see an empty bay for a clean slate... I used simple green, a stiff brush and a pressure washer to clean my engine bay after I got the old engine out... Worked well.

 

Spent about an hour on it yesterday with the pressure washer, and got it moved over to the heated garage for surgery. Planning to get it up in the air, and start on engine/trans mounts, and any associated firewall/trans tunnel mods before I pull the body from the frame and have it media blasted.

 

Along for the ride :TU: Love the new suspension too.

 

I'm following! :grin:

 

Following.

 

Um...Houston....we have a problem....





I figured there would be some bondo in this car...but I didn't figure the whole fender would be made of it...

So, in search of a new driver side fender I go.

Got it up on stands to make working on it a little easier.



Spent a good amount of time with the needle scaler getting rid of what appears to be undercoating or something, and the loose rust. More holes to fix.







I already have the front floor panels, and the trunk panels. Waiting on the rear footwell patch panels to arrive and then I guess I'll dig into the rust repair. Joy...

 

Been putting off starting the rust repair. So I decided to start trying to fit the engine/trans into the chassis.

Didn't get very far on that, either.



Here are the motor mounts I'm using. Dirty Dingo sliders. I've used them before, and they worked great.



CTS-V pan



Nope.



CTS-V pan doens't fit....for me at least. I have an F-body pan I need to try next.

 

Subbed!!!

 

Finally got started on the rust repair.





I've also come ot the conclusion that the factory Buick engine stands are in completely the wrong location for an LS engine. The options are either to buy a chevelle setup, or make my own. I'm gonna make my own.

 

I used the Chevy set up, tall and narrow. I also used the Dirty Dingo sliders.

 

Re: Project VerTTigo - 1964 Buick Skylark Convertible - Turbo LS6 Swap Build

That's good to know because I will be installing an LS in my 67 sportwagon.

 

So the Chevelle tall and narrow setup worked with the same sliders I'm using? Edit: I just saw your thread on Tech. I see that you Dingo sliders are a bit different.

If so I may do that, or possibly just weld extensions to the crossmember and move the buick mounts out to the approprate location.

 

Found a fender on ebay! Came all the way from Utah. Good part is, it's in GREAT shape. Bad part is, it's now the best part of the whole car. haha.

 

Re: Project VerTTigo - 1964 Buick Skylark Convertible - Turbo LS6 Swap Build

Awesome! Time to get back into this build!

 

Yea, i've been lazy on this lately. Got the rear floor pans finished up, and all the welds ground. Got a good start on the front pans as well, and finally found the right oil pan to fit exactly how I wanted it to. Now I have to decide on what FEAD to run. I'll post pics of that stuff soon.

 

So much awesome in this thread

Is there an engine stuck to the turbo on that Blazer? cant see it in the pic:laugh:

 

LOL thanks. It's fun.
Upgraded to a billet wheel...among some other things



This is the newest pic I have. Don't have one with the aluminum downpipe, turbo blanket, and inner fenders back in yet.

 

I really like that Blazer. Have you seen http://www.sloshtubz.net/ ?
I'm sure the Buick will be equally nice. Keep up the good work.

 

Yeah, I see the slosh tubz guys post on the 67-72 truck forums pretty often. I currently have factory inner fenders installed. Just took a little trimming for the coilover setup and turbo stuff.

Thanks for the compliment. The blazer is decent, but the buick is going to be way nicer....after all, it's not my money. LOL.

 

Time to accessorize.

Planning to run an LS1 F-body power steering setup, along with a custom passenger side alternator deal I found. This allows the acceccories to sit pretty tight to the engine CL, and will allow a bunch of room for turbo plumbing options. I wasn't able to fit the F-body alternator, with as far forward as I have the engine sitting.

I'm also running the Holley swap oil pan, which fits GREAT...tons of room, and no cutting or boxing of the crossmember required.




Alternator sits kinda high, but will clear the hood easily.