I haven't worked on the car, been bogged down with school and sports. I just was driving and enjoying the car for the summer and fall and wanted to post some pictures. Hoping to bring it back out when the rain goes away for my last year of highschool. I also wanted to see if anybody had considered doing any smoothing of the license plate recess on the front bumper. I want to do some small body work to make my car visually unique, I want to keep the element of a sleeper, but want some small hints to the observant eyes. Currently the only hints really towards anything is the front spoiler, stance, and the 17 x 11.5 Rears. I was thinking of an on/off switch, but I drive in a highschool parking lot and don't like the idea of kids with that. Any pro touring style suggestions?? I want to bounce around some ideas. The car will likely sit for my college years, and then I plan to go back and build the car that I really want to build either during summers or after school. Thanks!
You mentioned in one of your posts that the car stopped pulling at about 4000 RPM. I doubt, since the motor has been rebuilt, that your valve springs are the culprit but, I have another thought. You installed an MSD HEI distributor which probably has a rev limiter built into it which is adjustable. Is it possible you have the limiter set to cut the ignition off at 4000 RPM? Just a thought.
We have found that the previous builder didn't always use new parts or do a complete job, and therefore it would not surprise us if it were the original valve springs which would likely need to be replaced. The MSD HEI Distributor does have an adjustable rev limiter, but it was set at 5500 RPM, but in gear the engine will struggle to even spin that high. I appreciate the tip, but that was something we had already looked into. The car also has developed a strong electrical charge/current drain, where after sitting for a while the Car will need to be charged till it can start. I believe it might have originated from the cars Clifford Security system, which I removed most of it from (I was hesitant to remove all of it because some was attached as a kill switch to engine). Is there any other areas which we could receive a strong electrical drain? Additionally I am debating on whether or not to rebuild a Turbo 400 core that we have... Thank You Tom
I had an old Clifford alarm on my Buick Turbo T. The only drain it should experience is a little for the circuitry in the main box and a little for the LED light that flashes when the alarm is set. It should be very low current. My Buick would sit for a month or more on occasion and it would still start without a charge. And, that included a small drain on the battery from the car's computer.
Rkammer: You're right, it probably isn't the alarm. But I am just not really sure what it could be at this point. Thank you for the expertise. Did you ever have any problems with the alarm randomly being triggered? Also as an update, I put a post into the Street/Strip 400-430-455 section regarding a potential engine rebuild. Link: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...tion-for-Engine-Rebuild&p=2549058#post2549058 "Hey Guys, I am looking at rebuilding a new 455 and turbo 400 over break using some spare parts that we have. I am not satisfied with the current drivetrain, as the engine seems to have some problems as it won't pull past 4,000 RPMs and not sure how well the previous person built it and the transmission shifts are quite soft. In conversing with my Dad we are considered pulling the running drive train and keeping it aside as "Back up" and then building a more satisfying combination. This here is the "Build Thread on the car" http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?279311-1970-Pro-Touring-Lark We would be building a new 455 with some parts that we already have in order to keep costs down. We are planning on keeping a stock bottom end, but boring it to 0.030" and putting in some pistons that my dad has which would lead us to a 10.2:1 compression ratio. The heads will be mildly ported stock iron heads with stage one valves and springs, and the rockers and pushrods are being planned to stay stock spec. The intake would be a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (I think) and the exhaust is cast iron manifolds (although I am looking into T/A Shorty headers). For the turbo 400 we would rebuild a short shaft turbo 400 and use a race shift kit. Just a question based in my own curiosity, does anyone know of a manual pattern shift for automatics? I have been driving a 5-speed while the Buick sits in the garage, and I think I enjoy the shift pattern more than just the ratcheting shifter. The car spends a majority of the time on the street, and uses power brakes and power steering, but will likely see autocross and strip time. I would prefer it to have a lopey sound, and obviously out perform the stock cam. The car has 4:11 gears." Thanks For Your Time Guys, -Tom
In the over 20 years that alarm was on the car I can't ever recall it going off randomly. The only time I recall it going off was if the battery was disconnected in order to work on the car and then, when it was reconnected again, the alarm would trigger. You then, had to turn it off with the key fob. But, no random triggers otherwise.
Well... 4 Years Later and I'm back! Trying to guess my 15-year-old created password was a bitch, but after being locked out a couple of times guessed it right. As I'm starting to finish up college and having the car sit for a couple of years, I've started to reignite my interest in the car. Of course, the car has been sitting in the garage for a while and it's about time to start wiping the dust off and figuring out where everything lies. The goal is to get the car to be something that I can drive 3x a week and on any whim I choose. As an additional update, I was gifted billet aluminum 17" Buick-style rims, and put a 245 tire upfront, with 315s outback. What that means... (another todo list that might never get done): 1. Fix the electrical problems. -We are still getting an unexplained battery drain. I took out the Clifford alarm and still was having issues. Thinking about buying a painless wiring harness and just starting from scratch and redoing all of the wirings. 2. Fix the heater/defrost behind the dash. -The controller on this was broken, can't really remember how, but in Seattle weather defrost is always pretty essential if this is going to be a car that can get caught in the rain. 3. Rebuild the engine -I am looking at rebuilding a new 455 and turbo 400 over break using some spare parts that we have. Thes engine seems to have some problems as it won't pull past 4,000 RPMs. planning on grabbing a new block, boring it to 0.030" and putting in some pistons that my dad has which would lead us to a 10.2:1 compression ratio. The heads will be mildly ported stock iron heads with stage one valves and springs, and the rockers and pushrods are being planned to stay stock spec. Actually was able to get wildcat 455 headers on craigslist (with the helpful eye of dad), and plan on installing those with minor modification. We will have to get them coated as well. 4. Bucket seat conversion I took advantage of the Black Friday offerings for Jegs.com and picked up some new seats: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/70245/10002/-1 5. Update transmission Heres the real kicker. Still using those 4.11 gears, I was really hoping to get overdrive. Thinking an SST Transmission kit: https://shiftsst.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQi...wii9XV624xwVEFW8XLHtmEq6uFWU4CpIaApxZEALw_wcB but having a hard time justifying dropping that much money. The goal is to make some headway on all of these steps and finish up by September 2020, as that's when I'll start full-time employment. Hope to hear your guy's thoughts and excited to rejoin the community!
Welcome back and glad to hear you're restarting the project! I'm curious to see some of your feedback regarding those seats. I'll be starting an autocross build in the foreseeable future and those look like they may fit the bill for me as well.
They're arriving back at home this week (I'm currently at school) so hopefully I'll be able to check them out in a week or two and let you know. Thank you!
Well, I did it. After being offered $300 off and free shipping, I ordered a TKO 600 install kit from SST for me to install this summer. Excited to get the .64 overdrive which should lower my freeway speeds to 2050 RPMs which is somewhat manageable. More updates to come, but I really enjoyed my ordering experience so far, and I am excited to provide more updates. The seats are good, but not great. I really had some struggles in being shipped seats that were not damaged in shipping, I would call in and have the order be double boxed. The value is great, but they are a little tight on my shoulders. If I were to lean back into the seat, the bolsters dig into my shoulders. For sizing sake, I am 6 foot, 200 Lbs with a 42-inch chest. I think because the price was so low I was happy to take a shot, but I would also consider upgrading to a medium level like a Procar Rally. I think they are a temporary seat for me but not the long term solution.
Just a few updates After having my place flood, I am able to use the money saved on rent to upgrade from a TKO600 Trans to a 6 speed Magnum for SST. Does anyone have any thoughts/experiences with either? Looks like I'll have to cut the floor pan a little more, but I'm thinking if I'm gonna do it, I'm should do it right. Planning to get the car back out over spring break, get her running again, and get a few photos before taking it all apart. Trying to get those seats in for the end of March, and start looking into creating a harness bar. Also with the pending engine rebuild, I am looking to pick out a new camshaft, with very little knowledge to work with. The car will be a power brake hydraulic clutch car, and I'd like to have a pretty solid lope. She currently has a Poston 112A, which is a bit too much of a sleeper cam,with the gearing on the car (2.66 first gear, 4.11 rear) a lopey high revving camshaft would be the right call. Any recommendations? Thanks, Thomas
Hey Thomas, I installed a TKO600 in my 70 Skylark. Does your car currently have the TKO and you're looking to change it to the magnum 6 speed, or have you not yet installed either? Let me know, hopefully I can help you out with some pointers on how much tunnel to cut out. Any pictures of the floor/ tunnel hump? As far as the cam goes, heavy lope and power brakes don't usually play ball together. All depends on what future mods you plan on. If you want AC and fuel injection down the road, then I would avoid getting to aggressive on your lobe separation angle. You don't want to lose too much vacuum at idle. You can still have a high lift cam, with a wide LSA and plenty of high rpm power with better street manners. Cam specs all depend on your engine build, heads, intake, compression ratio, etc.
Hey Joe, Thanks for the input. I have yet to purchase either transmission but have just made a down payment at SST, I'm still choosing. I don't have any pictures and won't till the end of March for spring break from school. How have you liked your TKO600? In regards to the cam, power brakes were something I was concerned about. A/C and FI certainly would be nice, but I don't see them in the near future. The new 455 would be built with some parts that we already have in order to keep costs down. We are planning on keeping a stock bottom end, boring it to 0.030" and putting in some hyper-eutectic pistons that would lead us to a 10.2:1 compression ratio. The heads will be mildly ported stock iron heads with stage one valves and springs, and the rockers and pushrods are likely to stay stock spec. The intake would be an Edelbrock Performer Intake (I think) with Dual Quads, and T/A shorty headers. Thanks, Thomas
I have really enjoyed the tko600, especially with the hydraulic clutch. All depends on if you want 1 or 2 OD gears. I personally am use to a 5 speed, however I will say going from 4th gear 1.00 to 5th 0.64, is quite a drop in rpm. Definitely just a cruising gear. The magnum is definitely a bigger transmission, but the TKO also required cutting of the tunnel. So in all, really comes down to your preference. I've only heard good things about both.
Terrible about posting regularly. Some updates: After about a week of obsessing with a level, cut off wheel, torch, and flux core welder, I was able to get both seats in. I used flat 3" 3/16 stock steel to make mounting plates and then used 1.5" x 1.5" square stock to make vertical supports. The seats look great and are much more comfortable than I originally thought they would be, took the car on some curvy roads, and was really pleased with how they hugged you in, even with just stock lap belts. Bench Seat is for sale, and potentially am willing to part with back seats. I also installed some more modern style headlights, by drilling out the original headlight buckets to accept the newer housing, and was pleased with the modern look that they provided, as well as better lighting at night. Headlights Installed Left Side New, Right Side Old Always a work in progress
For some photos of the seats Before: After Again for the low price of the seats, I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. The slide rails function well, and the tilt wheels, while slow, do the job. As for the next steps: 5 Point Harness: -I'm looking at installing a 5 point harness, and therefore need to get a harness bar set-up. If anybody has any in their car I'd love to see how they did it. Passenger Mirror: -Ordered a chrome passenger mirror from DieCastMuscleCars, excited to get that in for the next few weeks Heater Switches: -Looking to get the heater set up, but the switches in the dash are broken, any idea on if replacements are made. Saw this listing but wanted to see if anyone had other places in mind: https://www.ebay.com/i/401728883495...drudRrCzwvR0Xn5jp2wBrapcTSRPSmqxoCs7YQAvD_BwEhttps://www.ebay.com/i/401728883495...drudRrCzwvR0Xn5jp2wBrapcTSRPSmqxoCs7YQAvD_BwE Dash Tachometer: -I would like to replace the column-mounted tach with either an original or aftermarket in the dash cluster where there is an empty slot. Engine Rebuild and Transmission swap -We are bringing a spare 455 block to the machine shop to complete a long block with parts we have, then need to figure out the top end, and camshaft selection. -I am still paying off the SST transmission kit, and have decided to upgrade to the Magnum 6 speed. I hope everyone is safe, and let me know if you have any questions!
Great pro touring build! You must have had the coolest car in high school! My son and I did the repop in dash tachometer. The illumination level doesn’t quite match the stock instruments but aside from that it fits in pretty well. Think we ordered it from OPGI. I like the way your bucket seat conversion turned out, looks really good.
