The MS-III supports EGT inputs but you have to add an extra board to tale the thermocouple inputs. That's my plan. I have the MS-II up and running and I have the MS-III parts for the upgrade, but I haven't bought the EGT board yet. DIY autotune has an 8 input module but it costs $299. It will also accept 8 O2 inputs at the same time. Jean Belanger at JB Performance has an 8 input EGT board that I believe fits in the MS-3 case. I need to contact him for price and availability once I've saved up a few more nickels. Jim
**Edit** I see now Jim already mentions it. I want to get one of these eventually for my Firebird when I put a turbo on it. It can input eight EGT sensors into the MegaSquirts 2 and above. It also has outputs to send the data to an external gauge as well. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/can-egt-8-channel-thermocouple-interface/ $299 +EGT sensors. Interestingly enough, a new upgraded version of Tunerstudio that is going commercial next month (it's available as a trial run to register users now), has a set up where you can use a single O2 sensor to Auto-tune/trim each cylinder by doing each cylinder one at a time. For a few years there has been an ability to trim them individually, but this should make it even easier and not need to have 8 sensors hooked up.
Well things are coming together with the car hauler project it is 95% done I just need to finish up a few details like fine tuning the ramps, and then adding some air bags to help carry the load when hauling. There are spare ramps secured at the rear of the deck as well to help with low cars. And the 88 Daytona is QUICK! The boost is raised up on the turbo and it is a nice little car! Going to sell it though once I have it fully fixed up: And the 75 Regal is running well... It has a SP code 10:1 350 in there and a 200R4 right now, makes a great highway hauler:
Do you need to mount a roller to the rear of the deck between the ramps, to keep a winch cable from dragging? Your other mods look good.
I traded some crap I had laying around for my old engine and trans that I sold with my other Skylark last year. The new owner had it making good power but blew the head gasket due to a bad tune up and then he dropped in a LS engine with turbos and it is now 1000 rear wheel HP street car with 6 speed and 4 wheel disks. I had bought this engine from Jay 3000 a while back, nice setup well built and the short block has handled the turbos well: Balanced engine with some mallory metal: 74 capscrew rods with ARP: It sat for a while and then I sold it with my old car: I sold the car with the second turbo kit which I also got back! And as tough as it was to let go the nice single plane intake went with the car too so its nice to get that back! These ported heads came with the engine from Jay but I never did let them go, I gave him some stock rebuilt heads instead. This 200R4 trans was $3600 originally was happy to get it back. CK Performance rated for 800 foot pounds of TQ: Here was the results of that good bottom end with some stock un-ported heads with 10 PSI and this is rear wheel HP. He had some air/fuel distribution issues and it looks like it went lean on cylinder 3 as it blew that head gasket a few times. It ran 11s in the quarter at almost 4000 pounds and 3.42 gear.
Hey Sean, I was talking to Dave yesterday and mentioned your number 3 cylinder head gasket failures that you and the new owner of you other car have been having and he may have answered why. He mentioned an LS build that was getting sprayed with a dual stage 600 HP shot, that is not one but 2 shots that equaled 600 HP each, anyway the #3 cylinder was being riddled with detonation, come to find out the pulling from the motor mount was the culprit for some reason, go figure. o No: Dave said switching to motor plates cured the problem, something you may want to consider? Not sure what they did with this build to handle the HP here but then again they might not of been boosting as much as you; http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200499-the-dyno-numbers-are-in&highlight=1021 Perhaps you know if in they used motor plates or motor mounts? With the amount of torque you are making it makes sense that the block is flexing and that flexing is probably distorting the deck making #3 cylinder blow the head gasket? Not sure but that IS the side and area right by #3 that has the motor mount is. Worth investigating. GL Derek
Thanks for the info that is VERY interesting, I should do an engine plate anyways as the chain that is holding the engine down may not be enough.
Well today I picked up a cool car! I am going to put a Buick 350 with forged pistons and a single turbo kit in there and back it up with the CK Performance 200r4 trans and make it a street/strip car. I am planning to paint it all black myself and have fun with it and not worry about scratches or rock chips. The rear end is a fully built and spooled 10 bolt with 4.88 gears. With the gears and overdrive trans I will be able to launch it like a bastard and still drive the highway. I could not resist it and the price was right! I have been around this car for years, it was last running 10.35 in the quarter with a 6.0 LS engine and it hooks and goes straight so it should be a lot of fun!
Cool project that deserves its own thread. I used to own a '77 Nova way back when with just a warmed over old school modified sbc 355(a 350 bored .030" over) with a TH350 with a shift kit and a 2800 stall with 3.73:1 rear gears. That thing would do mid 12s with that combo in it because those cars are so light. It was so cool to shift that car because it would squawk 2nd and chirp 3rd at WOT! Good times. Looks like that will be a fun project, but I think with that car and a N/A sbb stroker you can get that thing in the 10s, no boost required. How effen cool would that be?!! A N/A sbb in the mid 10s!!! If you want more, a 250 HP shot of N02 and get in the low 9s! Come on Sean, lets see what you can make a sbb do without your crutch, you already have a fast turbo car, why not build something more challenging. Would be a great showcase for the TA heads if they ever get them done. Or is it that you don't think the sbb 350 platform can't be fast without a turbo? What kind of message would that be? Besides, a fast sbb stroker would be a good addition to your book. Sonic test some blocks, start with the older ones that don't look like they don't have any core shift that will take a .105 overbore. With a 3.905" bore and a 3.990" stroke you'll have 383 cid sbb. How cool would that be when someone asks what engine you have and you tell them its a small block 383, and when you open the hood they see its a small block Buick! Most would ask what make engine is that when they see it. LOL. A good chance to educate the public on what a sbb is and can do. Whatever you decide I can't wait to read about it. Derek
I am not into the stroker builds personally or large overbores I will stick with 355 cubes either boosted or NA... I have considered doing a mild NA build with so much gear it could still run well... Will likely go single Turbo though as I have the kit and it would be easy to get it to run fast. Plus boost is addictive. The sound is fantastic and no need for high compression big cam etc... This will be a low buck fun car no alum heads or expensive parts.
Well Finishline built a 370 cid with only a .040" overbore with a 3.990" stroke and that engine made 420 low compression HP N/A before they installed the Pro-charger and cranked it up to 750 HP! A N/A 370 with a set of AutoTec pistons, nascar take out rods like finishline used and the Sonny Seal heads you have instead of "slum heads"(whatever those are?) would make a great N/A build! Make it a 10:1 and still pump gas friendly with a solid flat tappet to keep costs down but a solid roller would be much better. With the nascar rods a '73 or newer crank you could easily internally balance it and spin the snot out of it to 7,500 RPM with a SP3 topping it off! Even if you didn't stroke it either but still used a set of light nascar take out rods for the 1.889" rod journals, internally balanced with your Sonny Seal heads setup to spin to win would still run great with the light car with those 4.88 rear gears in it wouldn't take much to get that thing moving! Boost wouldn't be so addictive if you built something that can run good without it. If 10s without boost isn't enough, add a 200 HP shot of nitrous and get kicked off of the track. You already have the 4.88:1 gears in it for a high revving N/A engine, wouldn't that be to much gear with a turbo? Sorry Sean, but to me making power with boost is boring and unchallenging, the me too swap people do it all the time with their you have an LS swapped in, me too, with a turbo yet! LOL Just because you have never built a N/A sbb 350 that runs good doesn't mean it can't be done. Its not like you're racing in a restricted class either, so you can do things that the stock class cars can't and they're running 11s flat with a N/A sbb 350 in heavier cars than you just bought! Its your car Sean, so I can only suggest what to do with it, but ultimately its all up to how you want to have fun with it. Just make sure you stay safe however you proceed. :TU: Derek
Anthony's motor did not make 750 HP. I think it got into the low 600's. And yes I do know, it had my carb on it when they did the dyno run. Only runs a P-1 and about 6 pounds of boost.
I have built plenty of good running 350s,old street versions with self done head porting, mild cans that kept the low rpm torque etc. And yes I may build an NA engine but not a max effort one. Yes Anthony's engine was 630 hp at 5 psi but they did raise the boost after that and that is where the higher HP estimate came from after they swapped to a higher boost level they never re dynod. I have a nice engine here that just needs 60 thou milled off the block (pistons are 60 thou in the hole) and it would be 10.5:1 with diamond pistons and hershe rods and I have 2 big flat tappet solid lifted cams new in the box. That would be a good combo and cost me nothing. This block is all blueprinted and align honed and internally balanced with arp studs in the mains. I likely won't ever use it for boost as it was setup to run iron heads and if it was zero decked it would be too high of compression for boost and the alum heads... And for the alum heads I want a zero deck piston like in my girdled engine. Or my other engine I just got back with the high compression TRW forged pistons would be 10.5:1 with some 48 CC ported heads I have and steel shim gaskets. That one is proven reliable bottom end with 74 rods arp etc. It may not have stayed reliable under high boost but it handled the abuse fine at about 580 crank HP on low boost. It only has about 500 miles on it, most of them about 120 mph lol!
Here in post # 73 Sean writes; "I hear the car ran at the trakc the other day but the converter was too loose.... Looking forward to an update with a good converter.. This thing is about 700 HP with the boost raised past the dyno test." http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200499-the-dyno-numbers-are-in/page3&highlight=1021 And I remember Sean writing that they cranked it up past 750 before as well some where else. Derek
We don't know exactly what Hp it makes on high boost we are making educated guesses. Bob did say that it did not seem to pick up as much gain on high boost as they were hoping and that they needed a larger charger. So if it made 630 hp on low boost and then they doubled the boost i sure hope it made 750 hp but who knows...
That's cool. Thanks. Is that engine still in running condition with no breakage? And does anyone know if it is still being driven? Whatever happened with that build, does anyone reading this know? o No: Derek
I just asked Bobb through Facebook will let you know what I find out. A few months back I know they had pulled out the engine for some reason not sure if it's back in. Doug (Sailbird) is freinds with them he likely knows the scoop.
What I meant by writing "good running" I meant you have not built a N/A sbb 350 that has ran 12s or faster. Yeah, that Herche rod engine with the Sonny Seal heads you have would be a great combo with one of your solid cams! I still like the nascar rods because of how light they are though. I tell you what, you buy the nascar take out rods, send them here and I will bore them out and hone them to 2.125", narrow them and put the Buick tang in them for you, no charge if you build an sbb N/A with them. Get a set that is the 2.015" housing bore though so there is less material to take out so they don't lose much strength. Would only be .055" per side so not that big of a deal for a rod that use to handle 9,000+ RPM with over 850 HP. I don't think the stock rods would like much more than 6,000 RPM and the Herche rods are probably the heavier ones, unless you have the 500 gram version, if not they're around 650 grams each. Steve said that the AutoTecs he has were 2.8 lbs less than the set of hypers he took out, not sure what your Diamond pistons weigh though? The cheapest and most dependable if you only wanted to choose from the 2 you have would probably be the engine with the Herche rods. I wouldn't trust the stock rods not to blow a hole in the side of the block and close down the track if you want to run the solid cam in its power range if you use the SS heads. The factory rod engine wouldn't be as fun with the 4.88 gears either if you couldn't spin the thing much past 6,000 without worrying about the factory rods breaking. You have to remember with a turbo, the engine is pressurized on the intake and exhaust side cushioning the factory rods When #1 is getting air forced in on the intake stroke, #6 is working to push exhaust out, so both sides are pressurized. Kind of like doing a brake torque instead of doing a neutral slam, you hold the brake while the trans is in gear to preload the drivetrain to lesson the initial shock off the line. That's basically what a turbo does because there is pressure on both sides, which is why a factory cast rod would stay in one piece making that kind of power or higher. If you do decide on the single turbo engine then you might want to change out the 4.88 gears for maybe a high 3 series gear so you can get traction or so you don't flip the thing upside down if it is setup already for good traction? Have fun but stay safe. :TU: Derek
