I do not think the volume on the charged side makes much difference or the great heads and exhaust. I run a big intercooler and the big Extreme Velocity hat. My motor seemed to like the big hat a little bit more than the small hat. I think Bobb Makely's (Mike Evans old car) has some really good Bulldog heads on it and only runs a D-1. Will check on the pulley ratio that runs when I put the FiTech on it this weekend. It seems to me that Mike dropped blower pulley a lot too. Since your motor seems to like more advance I would kick it back up to say 36 degrees until you see some boost. When I set up my boost timing curve did not pull any timing until after 3 psi. Then pull a lot of timing out of it. At 8 psi my timing would be 20 degrees. For me there is a lot of HP with more timing. I asked about the fuel pressure to see if there is any pressure in the hat. So you see some pressure advance and then it drops back? When I ran a carb (a 950 then a 650) you could watch the fuel pressure to get an idea of what was happening in the hat. When you run NA you want to see 0 inches of vac at full throttle. If you are still seeing 0 at WOT then the blower is not a restriction. Hope my ramblings give you things to think about.
Nah fuel psi will/has went to 12lbs and I drove it a good bit on the 38 which is in rite off the 1500rpm idle. But we'll see tomorrow, a 1in reduction is definitely gonna do something
So that shows 6 psi in the hat. That a least kills the volume question. What is the LSA on the cam? Most boost cams run at least 110 degrees, I ran a TA413 and that worked good. The Scott Brown is a 114 degree cam and works even better. Did not see any difference in boost between the two. Are you thinking it is blowing right through the heads because of the overlap? Just for comparison my crank pulley is 7.25" blower pulley is 3.25" with the 4:44 step up.
It's a 110lsa, I was thinking last night about the fuel psi, if I have it increasing now and I spin the blower harder to compensate for whatever is causing the whatever, I'm gonna have 20 or more lbs of fuel psi
I have came to the conclusion that too much pressure in the hat really messes with the power valves. My next step with a carb system was going to be add another bypass/blow off valve. But this should no effect on not showing any boost. Do you have an AFR gauge? If not I can loan you one. If you go on the net there is a ton of stuff on trying to make power valves work. Mine carb worked great with 5 psi. When I stepped up the pulley I could never get the power valve to come in on part throttle. Would open at WOT just fine. When FiTech came along I had to go with it. Do not expect more than 10 pounds of boost. With your motor if we can get it up to 6psi you should have a 10.0 car. If you can hook it up.
Just talk to Kit the fella who sold me the blower and he asked me if it sounded loud under hood while driving, I said yea, he said what BoV you got, I said Tial Q he said there's your problem , and it does make sense it working as it should sitting still but when I load it its just puking it out and I've read about guys having to run 7lb springs instead of the 2lb spring so now I got another thing do ha damn it's dollarin me to death. Wideband will have to wait till next month gonna go with the NTK setup on it
I am running an old ugly ProCharger butterfly style by pass valve. Nothing fancy and makes no fart sounds so will keep it until it breaks. That explanation makes a lot of sense to me. It is just about impossible to tune a blow through carb without an AFR gauge.
I'm not gonna lean on it hard till I can verify a few things of course, I just wanna see the needle get on the other side of 0 ha
Set the timing locked at 28 to be safe. Swap the pulley to the 4.5 inch. Based off of my setup you should be pretty close to 6 pounds. That motor and the 4 inch tubing and carb spacer are eating up the boost. Been down this road. You will make more boost above the carb and that's why the fuel psi goes up. The motor is just using the rest. I noticed this difference big time when I switched from a bone stock 455 to the stage 3 and aluminum intake.
The 4.5 pulley will be going on tomorrow, gonna roll the timing back just a touch more and see what happens. It felt kinda lackluster at 3lbs from a 40mph roll but then I looked back and seen 100ft of black streak ha, I never felt it spinning pulled straight but was destroying the 325/50 DR's
Man o man this thing is starting to drive me nuts,,..belt slip was/is the issue. If added an idler pulley to increase belt wrap and allow more tension to be applied via the tensioner, and now the tensioner pulley and the belt are trying to eat each other, the tensioner isnt staying parallel to the mounting bracket causing the belt to ride into the lip on the pulley. Gotta figure something out there now. It appears that I may need an even smaller pulley to get the 6psi I'm looking for, the 4.5in is only providing 3to4lbs, do at this point I will have almost $500 in pulleys and belts,....kinda sucks
Can you get us a picture of your belt system? I have an old ProCharger tensioner and it is not a great product. In order to get the belt to run true I have the shim the mounting points to "tilt" the idler pulley until it would run true. Not an elegant solution but it gets the belt to run true and have reasonable life span. At least since everything on mine was designed and built by me, so know one to blame but myself. Belt slip is a problem for everyone. I have a 12 rib and still have to get it damn tight. Don't think alternator belt tight. More like guitar string tight. Does not surprise me that the 4.5 is too big. Those pulleys are for small block Chevies. I don't know what Jake runs but Mike Evans had to go with smaller pulleys and I run a 3.25 pulley with a D-1. For some reason Buick's just eat up that air. My guess is you are going to need over 60,000 rpm's to get 6 psi.
Bolt for tensioner wasnt tight so that fixed the tensioner alignment issue, moved idler to another position and got a 1/2 in shorter belt, I can really crank down on the belt now, gonna fix the throttle cable issue this weekend so I can reach WOT , it's currently stopping about 3/4 from WOT, just got back from picking up the new Billet 10in UCC converter, it will go in hopefully next week, gotta order a Eliminator pump to replace the A1000 as it can't supply the volume needed. Hope to maybe dyno it sometime in the next 30days, 800rwhp would be nice to see,...wonder what the record is for stock rods and no girdle ha.....
