6.350, to slightly keep the kick out rotation away from my cam. I'll make it up with the pistons. Found a close crank grinder for $200. (rod jrnls only). Also going to run the HV oil pump setup.
Yeah, I gave a guy a set just like those and brought over my bore gauges and rod vise and he was amazed on how sweet they were when he seen that the entire set was within .0002" of each other after they were torqued and we checked them with the bore gauge!
Not yet, I'm going to instruct you while you are machining them so you can say you did them yourself! LOL
Can't see anyone buying/ using stock nut/bolt or cap screw rods anymore as NICE as these are! Something like $2,200 rods?
I was watching for a set for a couple months, when mine popped up. Starting price was $100. I didn't have any extra cash so I missed out on the auction. Couple weeks later they popped back up at $60, and I grabbed them. I couldn't believe it. They are brand new, never been used. I think you are right. Guys that want to do a stroker should start watching E-bay and be patient. I should probably try and sell my '71 rods with the brand new ARP fasteners that I bought for them.
Yup, before they are non-desirable anymore. Even if you don't offset grind, thought I saw rods with big end for 2" jrnls too...... Derek and I bore gaged this set big end with caps torqued, and they are amazing. .0001 to maybe,maybe .00014 from each other. Round,round,&round!
That's what I have been trying to tell everyone for the past 5 years! Slightly used and pay pennies on the dollar for them. $2,300 to $2,600 sets of rods for $60 to $300! The nascar rods can even be used for standard stroke builds, just get the ones with the 2.008" or 2.015" housing bore size to run the 1.889" bearings. The minimal cost to have the crank's rod journals turned down a bit more to use the better rods that can cost less than having factory rods reconditioned with new bolts is a no brainer to me. Lighter rods that aren't going to break if they're spun faster than 6,500 RPM is what anyone that gets the SP3 intake should have before they install that intake.IMO They probably kept the bolts for the rods they changed to is why the bolts weren't there I would guess. I have also seen some used nascar take out rods sold without bolts and see the same seller selling the bolts in a different auction. You have to get an AutoTec piston or a full custom to use those rods, BUT $$ can be saved from some machining operations getting those pistons. If you look at the build as a whole then the price isn't much more than getting the proper machining to run the crappy pistons and on the big PLUS side, it will run WAY better. You probably would of been better off buying a set of the used sets of Pankl or Carr bolts on eBay than buying the ARP ones. The Pankl and Carr bolts are a higher grade than the top of ARP's line the ARP L-19 bolts. Which grade ARP bolts did you get? Dave from Enginecraft said that he had to cut one of those Carr bolts before and he said he went through about 4 cutoff wheels on his die grinder before he got all the way through that sucker!
ARP 2000 I didn’t see bolts that would work in his other auctions at the time. Doesn’t mean he didn’t hang on to them though. It’s OK. I figured I saved so much on the rods that I could spend a little on the bolts.
No, the new rods(that you bought) that they didn't use they probably kept the bolts for the newer rods that they changed to? Anyway, I was trying to say there are used bolt auctions of the Pankl and Carr bolts that would of worked for you. I bought sets of both before and they were around $40 per set. Just something to keep in mind if you do another take out rod build or for others reading.
My rods are new. I will be doing another build with aftermarket rods. It’s going to be twin turbo. Maybe I should start watching Ebay again.