Correct Spring/Pinch Clamps - Early Build 1970 GS

Dripping inside the car? Time for a new heater core I would say.

 

It wouldn’t be fun if it was easy. Was it leaking in the car because of something you did or is the core leaking?

 

That’s a job I don’t wish on anyone. Good news is you have a non-ac car.

 

I would agree it should not be leaking in the car, you probably need a new core. But a couple observations...the clams are too close to the end of the hose/firewall. They should be at lease maybe 1/4" from the end (look back at the pic you posted before). Second thing is you may have the clamps crossed, because your clamp color (s) are different than the pic you posted. Finally...Buicks don't leak, they mark their territory to keep the other brands at a safe distance!

 

Brett, no need to remove your fender to change heater core. I have used the method below and it works fine. Remove passenger bucket seat for easier access.

The Old Guy said:Here we go again!! The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the core. When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.

 

Maybe not, the smaller clamp will seal both hoses, while the larger won't seal the small hose. You can see the tangs are closer on one clamp than the other (they should appear about even). If the hose is leaking, it could leak into the car and appear to be the core. That's a crap job you don't want to do if you don't have to. Take a real good look at the clamps first, maybe even try worm clamps to be positive it's the core.

 

I'd say the seller knew it was leaking, hence the caps he used.

 

I didn't see the post where you said it was "capped". If the heater core was capped, I'd bet A LOT of $ it leaks. A LOT of $$$!!!!!!!!! There's absolutely no other reason to cap it. In fact...heat in the car, or not, the heater is a great way to get rid of heat in 99 degree weather in the dead of summer if you get stuck in traffic on the expressway or something. It's nice to have it working for cold days, too. It actually increases your cooling capacity, too.
When I bought my car off ebay, the seller said everything worked. When it arrived, the drivers door wouldn't open, the moron said you just need to hit the door and it would work. The directionals didn't work, he said you just need to jiggle the handle like every few seconds while you are turning. The washers didn't work, he says you will only be driving the car in good weather, so you won't need them. And on... and on... and on...
Anyways, the only way to really test it is out of the car. But...if you believe the seller, or want to believe the seller, you can try what I said.

 

Brett, be careful where you get a core from as I changed mine last year and the cheap ones they sell today at most auto parts stores didn’t fit properly. I actually found a really good quality core from Heartbeatcity. Even though they focus on Camaro's they sell a nice copper/ brass unit for $89.00 for 70 Chevelle that fits perfectly. Most ones you find today are all aluminum. Here’s the link.

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/...ssembly-OE-Quality-Copper-&-Brass-Without-AC/

 

Yeah...that looks like a nice piece. Nice because it's not aluminum, and also because it has a brace for the tubes, You don't always see that.