Hello ditching the old alternator and going to a one wire. Other making sure the ground cable is connected to the base of the alternator bracket, and that the one hot wire goes back to the pigtail connected to the positive sideof the battery is their anything else specific that needs to be done?? I'm sure their is a post on this somewhere but I have not found it. Also other than blocking off the other wire that used to plug into to the alternator are their any special issues?? Should I take the regulator bolted on the firewall right out of the car ?? Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated !!
This video should tell you what you need to know. I left my voltage regulator on the firewall when I did my one-wire conversion because I want the engine bay to still look stock. You can cut the pins inside the regulator when you install the jumpers if you want.
I didnt do anything other than hook up the hot wire to the back of the Alt. Tucked the plug down behind out of site. Left the reg connected and intact. Alt light comes on when the key is in the on position and goes out when it starts.
The alt. idiot light might not come on if the alt. stops charging even though it comes on when you turn the key on. Is it possible you might already have a wiring harness modified for single wire alternator?
That video kind of confuses me ,maybe bcs he has no Gen light on his Chevelle /not sure and imagine the wiring would be same for our buicks ...and also other referenced drawings on the bypass for voltage regulator plug I have seen online and even here ..where the inside terminals are jumped and the outside terminals jumped I obtained a starter and si alternator from 65specialconver(Jamie) from over 10 years ago and not installed yet ....and the voltage Reg is bypassed differently
I followed this and it worked well for me! Can someone please explain to me the internal alternator conversion!!!!
I just hooked up the factor power power and added an additional larger wire to the battery. just pinned the plug back into the harness and left the regulator. plenty of volts. no warning light on the dash. I did it this way incase it went out at the track I could at least find a stk unit somewhere to have power
The directions Larry posted above is what I used 16-ish years ago. Alternator I bought is Duralast DL7194-6-3 and probably codes out to a '87-ish G body; is perfectly clocked right out of the box. This is 94 amps; $75 plus core charge and a pigtail or two; and available ANYWHERE. For mounting in a Buick bracket you need to grind off a little nub on the back and swap the serpentine belt pulley for your v-belt. Took me less than two hours rewire and swap. And it's pirty but not shouty. Plenty of juice for my ten amp fan, MSD box, and big stereo amp. Still has voltage sensing and idiot light. Wire it into the charging system with ten-gauge output.
I am using this https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/high-output-chevy-one-1-wire-alternator-105-amp-10si-se.html so far no issues at 6700 engine rpm
I obtained this 10si from Jamie here on the forum more than 10 years ago,also note it has a 12si fan on it ,didn't know that the fans are interchangeable..I first confused it for a 12si bcs of that fan ...all I need now is a motor to install it on
I also would (have) ditch a generator/alternator using a mechanical regulator. But put in an alt with internal regulator, then connect the GEN light and battery distribution point to it. This will keep the bulb warning you of bad output, and improve voltage regulation in circuits. It will probably reduce the need to rev the engine to light off the alt as well. Bruce Roe
