Here it is Derek, 3200 stall converter cam specs are lift- intake .477 exh 497 valve timing @ .050 intake open at 8 btdc, close 40 abdc exhaust open 52 bbdc close 4 atdc duration @ .050 intake 227, exhaust 235 intake center line 106 lobe separation 110
Thanks Larry. With a single plane intake and that cam you should still be pulling(making power) to 6,000. But to take advantage of that much more RPM you would need a different rear gear so you're going through the finish line @ 6,000 RPM instead of around 5,000 where you would be now in 2nd gear now. I went back through the thread and couldn't find where you mentioned what RPM you were launching your car at? If you are getting good traction, you should be brake torqueing to at least 2,500. One foot on the brake and one on the gas, get RPM up to 2,500 on the tach, wait for the last yellow light to come on, remove foot from brake and stomp gas, or if your traction isn't so good steadily press throttle until floored.
You need at least a 3000 stall convertor to get the engine up to 2500 rpm and the brakes still may not hold. Now if you can launch the car from 3 grand with the footbrake now yer talking. You need a 3500 convertor to do that, which puts the engine right where it needs to be to launch a 3800 lb car off the line with a good 60 ft. With that combo the 60 fts will be in the 1.70 range.
Hey Guy, he says he has a 3,200 stall a couple posts up, he should be able to hold 2,500 for the launch.
It's a stage 1 dual plane, will stock valve train handle 6000 rpm? 3200 stall, trying different rpm's to launch at, the problem is I take focus off holding my rpm's steady and try to cut a good light. I know I need to focus on what launch rpm works the best and then work on my reaction times. Going back this sunday to T&T and will just work on my 60' times and higher shift points if you guys think I should be still having power at 5500 rpm plus.
Why are you even concerned with reaction time? That has absolutely nothing to do with your elapsed time. Sit there until you are ready to launch and go. The only time reaction time comes into play is when you are bracket racing.
I knew you had the Stage 1 intake, your engine with that intake is done around 5,000 RPM, if you can(the TH400 might self shift into 2nd before then?) shift into 2nd around 5,000 to 5,500, see what the QM times like. If it likes 5,000 RPMs better, then try a little less until your QM times start going down. A manual valve body for the trans should help you stay in first if it is shifting to soon out of 1st. If you have 50 year old valve springs in there the engine probably won't like revving that fast? If you replaced the springs when you went through the engine, you should be able to spin to 6,000 with an SP3 intake.(the Stage 1 intake more than likely won't let you spin that fast, if it does it is probably not pulling anymore) Don't go to much past 6,000 with those factory rods though if you go this route.
I didn't catch that at 3200 it should be able to go to 2500 I have 3000 stall and i can just get to 2500 before it starts to push the car. I tell you what I liked that looser 3500 stall I had in there with the 350 trans That one did stall to 3000. To tell you how good the 200-4 trans is in low gear I run a 3000 stall instead of the 3500 with the 350 trans and the 200-4 trans makes up the time in the 1/8 yet the 60 ft time with the 350 trans and the 3500 convertor was in the 1.75 range. With the 200-4 trans and using the 3000 stall the 60 ft times are about 1.90 now. I do go about 1/10 slower in the 1/4 but very close times with the 2 transmissions. I did make power to 6200 with the TA stage 1 intake. But everything is balanced. We ran it to 6400 with that TA 510 cam and when I first took the car out way back when I had the rev limiter at 6400 and it hit that before I shifted. I was using the in dash tach and it was a little slow. I changed to a better tach after that. If he has at least the 212 cam or close it should be able to get to 5500. If it is that Comp Cam 268 it will go to 55oo because mine did and the valve train was all stock with the original springs in it. I ran that cam from 1985 to 88 then I ran it from 1990 to 1994 when the crank broke. I know I ran that to 5500. But the springs were not as old in 1985 either lol. I do see you have a 750 DP Holley you do have to play with the shooters and the cams to get that 60 ft time down.
I broke the crank in 1993 at the track started knocking. I was running this Thermoquad and testing it but it started to flood out on the burn out and at the end of the track it started knocking. The Thermoquad just happen to give me my best time on the old stock motor with the 268 Comp Cam in it. After I took the engine apart I found the crank had cracked in half at one of the mains. I couldn't believe I drove home and it was a good 25 miles from the track. BMF huh ! So you can beat the crap out of the 350 and still lives
Well I made it back to the track yesterday, changed nothing in the tune up. Density altitude of 7300ft Foot brake to 2500,(pushed me through the lights trying to give it more) 1-2 shift at 5500 through the lights in second gear at 5900 everything felt and sounded good. 17lbs in the drag radials these 2 runs were 1 right after the other. about 45min. apart best ET and highest MPH
I think that is pretty damn good for 7300’. Maybe try throwing more timing at it. Try 34*. That’s an easy 13 second car at sea level. Road trip? Have you tried just leaving off idle without getting up on the converter?
Yes it came out to a 13.19 at sea level. 2 wks ago I was leaving off idle and my 60' times were all 2.06-2.08. It was real windy so they shut it down to 1/8mi. I converted those times,(9.13 & 9.19) to 1/4mi and got 14.47 & 14.56. It gets really hot here, high 90's, and I'm sure the DA is well over 9000', with no shade at all at the track so I will probably not run it again till sept/oct I think I can get it down to the high 13's with the right tune up The car is now going up on jack stands to get the interior gutted for sound deadner, carpet, new package tray and speakers, removing all the side molding except the Buick louvers and the Skylark emblems and welding up all the holes and alot of small projects that I've been collecting all the parts for a year or so THANK YOU LARRY for the tip on holding it in 1st longer and leaving it in 2nd, it cut .23 off my time and gained me a couple MPH! Thanks, Keith
We have very comparable cars. Mines a 350 too. Here is my best runs Friday. Im considering headers and stall. I see your running those on yours. Not sure if the cost is worth it to me to pick up a couple tenths but that racing. I have to give thanks to Larry also on the 5000 shift points. 60'-2.235 60'-2.368 330-6.194 330-6.380 1/8-9.414 1/8-9.603 mph-76.11 mph-76.83 1000-12.244 1000-12.381 ET 14.660 ET 14.753 mph 93.19 mph 95.05 Im not sure why my speed was quicker on the second run yet slower ET.
You spun on the second pass. That lowers your ET. It also can give you more speed, sort of like more stall, or deeper gears, the wheel spin gives the car a better running start from the point of actual hook. I think that’s it. http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6842360
Ok, finally got the interior and small projects done and I'm now ready to get to the fine tuning. I've decided to go with every ones suggestion and get a air/fuel gauge. What is every ones opinion on the best ones out there? thanks,Keith
I just installed an AEM Wideband AFR guage from Summit Racing , one bung welded into collector. Just shy of 2 bills. Going to start tuning carb this weekend...Jim
This is the one I have. JW recommended it to me. I have it permanently installed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110
