206.8rwhp @ 5003 rpm (211 weather correction) 258tq @ 2781 rpm (263.2 weather correction). Stock Heads Stock Intake Stock Bore .042 gaskets (9.5ish:1) Stock exhaust manifolds, 2.5" dual through thrush chambered, exit behind rear tires. Crower Level 3 cam installed straight up at 0* with a TA 3 way timing chain setup, comp 942-16 springs. Everyday Performance 17057241 Qjet Vehicle is my '85 Buick Regal, Th350 with transgo 350-1-2 shift kit, GN 3.42 8.5 10 bolt Posi rear. I'd say these are pretty good numbers, what say you guys? The chart at WOT said my AFR was 10.8... the carb has an L hangar and CK rods in it. I assume I'd need fatter rods to alleviate this issue? Carb is decent in all other areas. Also, anyone have any guestimates as to what those numbers would be at the crank? I'm thinking around 275-290hp, and 350-360ftlbs. Me and the dyno guy were pretty surprised how much it put down being 99% stock.
Those are good numbers for what it is. Well done and thanks for sharing. Now hit the track and see what it will run.
The WOT AFR is 10.8... anyone have any insight as to what rods I'd need to go to to get it up about a point? It has CK rods and an L hangar.
I've been told that a rod that is .100 fatter at the tip is about .75 points, but that depends on your primary jetting, as long as that is jetted correctly.
It is expensive, especially if the shop doesn't use the dyno all that much. It was $80 for a test run to see if the dyno was hooked up correctly, and another run. Was a slow day, guy said what the hell and we made 1 more because power was still climbing.
I recall it $160 for one run with no adjusts here in San Diego. What do you mean by power was still climbing? Did you make any adjustments between runs? Cheers, Mike
Suppose to be a pic of the unfinished aluminum head for the 350, but its telling me it doesn't have a file extension. I can click on the link and view, but I guess I cant share it
Nope. Made the test run to verify dyno setup, made 1 run to 4500, said power was still climbing, so we made another to 5000. Peak hp was the previously mentioned 206.8 at 5003rpm. Didn't have the time nor money on hand to do more than that, they had a full schedule that day, and I scheduled for the "cheap" dyno option, which was a test run, plus a power run. The timing was a very conservative 8* base, 22* advance, all in by 2800. Vacuum advance on ported vacuum, don't know what it is. It's the way TA set it, runs fine. Next time I will bump the timing upto 10* (if the engine will tolerate it on 91), and hopefully have an AFR gauge and have better rods on the secondary side. No adjustments were made between the trial run and the 2 power runs.
Now you should just go back to the track Without doing anything to see what kind of time you run. Note all the weather conditions along with tire pressures and such. Pressure, humidity, time of day, what track and what elevation. I have a Ap called Drag Times and it is pretty cool you can go to any race track in the country and put in all the numbers and get a corrected time and et with power. You can also go back in time and check that day at any race track and get corrected numbers for that day. Plus it has a full weather radar with the Ap using Weather Underground. There are also ET times of just about every car made There is a lot of stuff on this Ap we should all have it. After you back to the track and make a run, then you turn up that timing and see what happens do that until the mph or time falls off then go back 2* then you can work on the fuel the same way. Then you work on the throttle response with the 60 ft time and once you get consistent you start to do the bracket race thing and you can win a few bucks on a Friday night Lots of fun. I put in your RWHP numbers in the ap and you should run 15.34@88.85 mph if your car and you total wt is 3800 lbs. My car weighed 3660 on the scale so with a body in there it is at 3800.
Whenever I can make it it will be colder than it was. Tire pressure was 35psi. Will check out those apps.
Yes, but the final readout was taken from 65mph to whenever the power started to drop off, in my case over 100mph, about 102, so it wouldn't downshift on the dyno and misrepresent the numbers. Plus with a Th350, 3rd (Drive) is 1:1.
