HINT: Those water pump bolts are 1/4" x 20's. Push a 1/4" roll pin into the hole as a guide, the use the drill that fits the INSIDE of the roll pin. Those threads will take a 3/16 drill and then the tap to clean out and if you can get anything smaller than a 3/16" hole in the bolt, yer home free. DO NOT try to drill it free hand! If you have a drill press do it after the cover and pump is off. Theres 2 dowel pins to keep the cover aligned in position. Two more pins on the cover to block fit as well. These are at about 9 and 4 o'clock from the cam gear. If the roll pin is too loose, use a drill (9/32") that just fits into the hole and bump a center point mark in the stub. Then start with a 1/8" for a pilot. The drill WILL FOLLOW the path of least resistance (aluminum). Get used to doing some finesse work now; youll need it later on! ws
About to lift the intake off. Though I do have less time on my body this won't be fun, wish my back luck!
Just bought a $60 Campbell Hausfeld 550 ft/lb capable air impact. My stepfather has a compressor and this particular gun had great reviews and a great price
These fuel pump arms are slightly different in that one has the metal plate. Will that become an issue if the new one doesn't have one?
No. The arm with the wear plate is an older pump. The older AC pumps used to come like that. They seemed to he eliminated that part in recent years. Doesn't affect anything. The new one will work just fine
Top to bottom: From the 67 From TA Performance From a 68 430 What was Gm doing? Or which car 67/68 ACTUALLY needed a timing chain during its life. This is sorta cool
Wow, and it was running right? Thanks for your thread and all the pictures by the way, i enjoy these engine threads
All that plastic is sitting on the oil pump pick up screen When that happens to an old poncho 389 or 400 they quit running. Usually happens on a start up. First check is to see the distributor not turning. Im surprised yours still is/was. ws