Hello again everyone, my 72 GS 350 with an auto transmission is starting to approach 220 degrees while driving on the highway. I'm in Florida and with the bumper to bumper traffic in the summer, I better fix the problem now. I haven't checked the thermostat yet, but I know my radiator seen better days. I'm planning on the car to be a daily driver and an occasional weekend warrior at the track in the future. Can anyone recommend a reasonable price radiator? Thinking about replacing the water pump too. Does a high performance water pump really make a difference, or should I just stick with a replacement pump? Thanks in advance for any help.
Where in the FL are you? I am getting ready to pull the 350 out of my 1968 'lark, and the radiator is looking for a new forever home. I am in the Panhandle.
Aluminum radiator ...... Champion or Cold case brand ...cheaper priced but many people are happy with em Higher end quality would be Griffin or Dewitt 2 rows that are 1"-1 1/4 " tubes ....1 1/4 " preferred and top and lower hose necks that are 1 1/2"hose I would also change the fan clutch and of course thermostat...TA performance has new water pumps for a bit more $ than rebuilt ones . High volume water pump....imo running coolant too fast through the system search the forum .....lots of talk on radiators
If your not worried about originality, you can run a 91-96(?) Park Ave radiator. It would be the newer, aluminum core/ plastic tank variety. Its a bolt in with no mods. Although Ive not installed one, Im told it works well. And you can get them for less than $100 on Rock Auto
Thank you rex362 and buick64203, I'll consider the options and make a purchase. TA Performance wanted $740 for one. That's too much for me! Does anyone know what degree thermostat would work best?
I have a $700 Ron Davis in my GS and a $200, 3-row Champion in my Skylark. The Champion looks just as good or better, fits better and cools just as well in everyday driving. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Champion for your application, especially for the price. Stick with a 180 thermostat.
Thanks ravensbud, I was just looking up the Champion radiators on the net. I think that's the way I'm going to go. There's lots of good reviews on them and the price isn't bad at all. Thanks again!
Of course, you could have other, more easily and cheaply resolved issues. How's that vacuum advance unit working?
The vacuum advance unit is fine. The radiator is in bad shape with a small leak. I'll try replacing that first since it needs it anyway. If the temperature is still high, I'll start to look at other possible problems. Hopefully the radiator will solve the problem.
I've got Champion Radiators in everything that isn't stock. Can't beat them for price, quality, or fit. They're amazing.
Cam, which Champion (part number) did you end up with for your 67 Skylark? I'm considering one for my 67 as well.
It was the CC571. Three rows of 5/8" tubing but its cooling a stock 400 just fine. It fit right into the rubber radiator mounts in the Skylark. If you had a GS I'd go with the 4-core as it'll theoretically cool better but also fit the wider rubber mounts better.
If it is aluminum and 3 rows, it's cooling is inferior to an equivalent brass copper radiator. Some engines can run fine with a stock type radiator, others have chronic problems and run hot. If you have an engine that has problems, you'll need a radiator that gets the job done. That's a 1 or 2 row aluminum with at least 1" tubes.
Larry, I was thinking about getting the Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (which I didn't buy yet), do you think the 2 row would be good enough?
a 2 core with 1.25 tubes would have more cooling efficiency than a 3 core and even some 4 cores champion 4 core ---Tubes: 0.63" thick 4x .64= 2.56" total champion 3 core ---Tubes: 0.63" thick 3x .63=1.89" total champion 2 core ---Tubes : 0.75" thick 2x.75=1.50" total champion 2 core--- Tubes : 1.00" thick 2x1.0= 2" total----->-champion Eagle others .......2 core ---Tubes : 1.25" thick 2x1.5= 2.50" total.... imo still more efficient than a 4 core bcs air goes through 2 core easier than a 4 core some pro shops can do 1.50 but pricier might be special order
Brass copper is relatively soft, so tube size is limited to 5/8”. Aluminum is stiffer, so tubes can be up to 1 1/2” long. More tube to fin contact, better cooling. With tubes that big, all you need is 1 or 2 rows max, so when you see an aluminum radiator with 3 and 4 rows, and small tubes, the manufacturer is completely disregarding the reason for using aluminum in the first place. Add the fact that brass/copper conducts heat better than aluminum and the 3 row aluminum radiator is actually less efficient than an equivalent brass/copper unit. Why waste your money? I have posted this probably a dozen times in different threads. One more time.