amazing how something like this can put a holt on a simple job . theres no reason why it couldn't be an 1" or a 1 1/16" size which most people have . thought this nonsense was only on newer vehicles
Ok I purchased the socket and looks like it should fit . Does this look like it could work ? Fitting on left will go in to the block , the one on the right is my new gauge sender and the bottom one will go to my factory sender
Yes, I would install it one piece at a time, not pre assembled. That way, you can orient it so nothing hits the block.
Yea just what I was thinking and I have an extension if I need to bring it out more . Use that liquid Teflon again yea ?
Got some time to put the oil senders in today . The tee worked pretty good . I have the factory sender pointing forward now near the top of the oil filter ,that way I could also keep the original wire , any other way and i’d Have to add a new piece on . (under hose clamp in pic).
Here, let me add my oil pressure stuff as well, hoping to fire it up tomorrow. Checked whether the light worked and it did, so now all we do is wait for a reasonable hour to light her off.
My sender works a stock in-dash gauge, not just an idiot light. So now I have two oil pressure gauges.
can anyone help ? so all the gauges work except for the tach . when I turn the car on it twitches ever so slightly but that's it . I have a 1amp fuse going from the tach to the ignition on my fuse box like is recommended
Check over your wires from the tach. make sure all connections are still solid and clean. Ground, Power, Distributor wire. Does your illumination bulb light up when you turn the lights on? Pretty sure most gauges have those. Most i have seen have a green wire for the distributor hook up. Check that one for sure and if still clean and solid connection let us know which wire you hooked it to or which post its screwed to.
will do . just spoke to the tech guy at Autometer and he said to ground it on its own away from the other 3 gauges I put in . said the interference from the other gauges could do that . I also have the tach wire that goes to the HEI running along side the power wire to the HEI . maybe route it away from that on its own ?
My mind is a little fuzzy and hopefully another member can chime in on this. Never heard of a problem connecting grounds together. My gauges are all soldered and wired together for one ground point connection. The signal wire running along side the power wire might cause a problem but i sorta would think it wont. HEI have a Grey Wire( ???Could be wrong here) that you connect the signal wire(??Normaly green??) too from your tack. Id Poke around and check those wires out and connections. But giving it a dedicated ground might help move the solution along towards finding out the problem.
tach connection goes next to the HEI power terminal on the HEI cap like normal . i'll try both relocating the ground and move the wire that goes to the HEI away from any other wires that may be interfering with it . defiantly power going to the gauge as it moves but only a tiny bit and stays at 0 rpm .
Your Gauge does have the calibration switches. You can see it just to the right of the holes where the light came out of in your pictures. Little brown square with the yellow tabs in the center are those switches. Seems the number 2 switch is already in the up position. Cant tell what the number one switch is from the pictures angle. Let us know what happens after you move the two wires you mentioned in 2 above post.
Man that’s really tiny and my eyes aren’t what they used to be .can you see in this pic if the other switch is correct?
The tachometer should have come calibrated for 8 cylinders. The switches should be right without you touching anything. It looks like both switches are up in the picture, which is correct.