Driving for an hour at 20mph is not the same as driving for an hour at 60mph. By the pic it appears the gauge is jumping around. Is it really or just an illusion???
That’s a combo of glare and the flash. The car was off at the time I took the picture. Just wanted to show how it’s mounted
Yes, drive the car at 60 MPH for 30 minutes in 80+*, and then idle it in gear, and you’ll see your lowest oil pressures.
I would run a blend of 10/30 and 20/50 when the weather warms up. Remember 20/50 is just 20 weight oil with viscosity improvers so it doesn't breakdown as much when hot. Also 10/30 will breakdown with time and eventually become a 10w oil....not good for an old school engine like the 430. I myself would rather have a thicker oil and just be careful and warm it up before getting on it. Oil temp gauge is good idea. If you look in owners manuals of older cars they would often recommend 10/30 only up to 60deg after that 20/40 or 20/50 or straight 30. I don't see lower than 25 at idle ever on my 430s.
Ok thanks guys, for the next change I’ll mix 2 quarts 20/50 and 3 quarts 10/30. Does that make sense for you guys? Is that how you’d do it?
I'm assuming your bottom end is original....right? If so, who knows what clearances are or wear that exits. The slightly heavier oil will protect better...hell in the "old days" we would toss in a can of thick STP...kept a lot of high mileage mills going...coated parts and thickened oil....
So maybe 3 quarts of 20/50 haha. I’ll look for another amazon deal. It’s still a screaming deal for 6 quarts so I bought one case of 20/50. There’s many things to skimp on, but not oil
Man the TA phone line is busy today, exhaust and fuel pump ordered. Back to living on ramen and drinking Natty light I also can’t wait to, once I have confirmed I have great oil pressure at idle, turn down the idle to its barely running and then cruise into car meets lol Edit: why is shipping over $150. I feel like I’ve been kicked twice
This is what one of the 2" into 2" magnaflow glasspacks into 2.25" side pipe duals look like, can’t wait to lose this restriction
Replaced leaking rubber trans cooler lines. Removed exhaust and I’m ready for the work involved to bring it to good exhaust levels My spring break week: 0. Stage 1 fuel pump install 1 hr 1. Exhaust 8 hr 2. Fill trans and drive it to ensure fill level is right in park 30 min 3. Check literally all fluids 15 min 4. Change oil 15 min 4.5. Read the damn wheel codes 6 min 4.6. Get a better numbering system -3 min 4.65. Replace Inline fuel filter 10 min 4.66. Remove carb fuel filter for bowel movements and giggles, as well as because it isn't super effective and already is being supported by a brand new filter, but save all the parts anyway 10 min 5. Make sure everything is right in tip top shape 1 hr 6. Holy s***, is it almost that time of year again? 7. To Lebanon we go, to the 13s we hope 8?. Grind down the fins on the aluminum drums? Long time My one qualm about swapping this exhaust system is that it sounded damn good, erupting to a pleasantly feral ROAR from the sidepipes under WOT, especially with the new cam, it is way different sounding than the stock cam. I NEED the new system to sound as good or better to make me happy.
I want to try and fit the set of rims I bought that were very close to fitting, and make them fit. I anticipate traction issues, but love the stock rims, but want to hook on the track, so I'm conflicted. This is only if I end up having the 15x6 rims, which is likely, cause only 80s estate wagons had the 15x7 big car road wheels