Header bolt length

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by TTNC, Mar 16, 2019.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Be careful with aluminum heads. I would never use a torque wrench on something like that. Carburetor bolts, water pump bolts? I have seen people strip threads and break bolts trying to torque little things like that. Just use some common sense. I have always used TA gaskets. My MT’s have a nice thick flange. I just snug them up and then keep checking them the next 3 to 4 cycles. At some point, they stay tight and that is it. Like I said, the stock exhaust manifold bolts get 18 ft. Lbs. I would not try to use a torque wrench, you are asking for trouble. Just snug them up.
     
  2. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Use the Remflex on the Riv with TA shortys and iron heads. Dont use any gaskets on the Regal with the S3 TA heads. Clear silicone and 3/4" inch bolts. Also use the same stuff on the intake composite gaskets and end seals. Never have a leak.
     
  3. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Ya, made the mistake of drilling those extra holes thru on Stage 1 Track heads a couple times.. The second set I did it on, I built the motor, and experienced how badly it kills bolt engagement on the top side of the header.. Have to use studs in those holes.. never again.. what a pain..

    The only thing High compression motors with Stage 1 heads will leak is compression pressure, O-rings and copper gaskets cure that..

    As cool as the little bolts are in the Stage 2 heads, that same idea in a Stage 1 head just does not work out to the overall advantage of the engine.

    JW
     
    dan zepnick likes this.
  4. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    The block I'm assembling now was drilled for the extra head bolts and was surprised to see that they go into the water jackets. Dont have my heads in front of me but I dont see how those studs would interfere with the header bolts. Maybe Im missing something....?
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Briz,

    Look at where the bosses to drill for the 4 extra bolt holes are. They are right behind the top 4 header bolt holes.

    TAStage1SE.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2019
  6. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    You most certainly can use a torque wrench on a bolt that threads into aluminum! If the threads are good and the torque spec is proper, there will be no issue. I’ve been sending bolts into aluminum for 30+ years, and if the proper clamping force isn’t achieved, then you WILL have issues. Also, adding anti-seize to threads can result in stripping threads if you torque at the given spec. The stainless header bolts clearly don’t need anti-seize, and it will effect the torque and clamping load, making it easier to strip threads. I don’t know if I’ve ever used a torque wrench on anything exhaust related. Obviously, some of the bolts on Stage 1 headers aren’t accessible with a torque wrench anyway.
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I agree Bob, my point is I don't use my torque wrench on every little bolt on the engine. I can remember at least one guy who stripped his carburetor mounting bolts into an Edelbrock intake using a torque wrench. Same with water pump bolts and accessories mounting. I just go by feel. Haven't had a problem yet. No Monkey farting around.:)
     
  8. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Ya I see now. Mine are totally different. NCM_0211.JPG
     
  9. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    Reason?
     
  10. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Also need to be careful with aluminum heads....especially with the extra thick gaskets.
    I had to mix and match lengths so as to not have them bottom out or be too short. Ether way you can hurt the threads.
    Bottom out and you get a header leak.
    Good to measure depth and choose right length for each hole....at least on my TAs.
     
  11. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    Why would you need an anti-seize compound on anything stainless?? You will only potentially cause problems using anti-seize in this case. Those ARP stainless header bolts are nice. I’ve been using them for years on 2 aluminum-headed engines. I wouldn’t even suggest use anti-seize on “regular” header bolts into aluminum, but using anti-seize on standard bolts into iron heads is a good idea.
     
  12. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    Galling is a known issue with stainless fasteners into aluminum. There is also the issue of galvanic corrosion when you have dissimilar metals in electrical contact. There are a few nickel based anti seize products meant for stainless.
     
  13. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    I’m not a scientist and I’ve never seen what you’re saying happens before. There was also a discussion on how using TA’s stainless intake bolts into AL heads “have issues” too, but I’ve never experienced it before and Mike still sells them and I still use them. By all means, do as you wish!
     
  14. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    Fair enough, I just wanted to understand all viewpoints in case you knew something I hadn't thought of
     

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