are there any stock appearing aluminum wheels in 15” that look like the old steel wheels that you could mount a 10” poverty cap/dog dish hubcap on?
Yes, but you need adapters to mount the dog dishes. Call Steve at SRE and wish him a Happy Birthday today too. gary
about 100lbs from 15x7 rallys and G60 polyglasses and 28x9 M/T Slicks to the welds with caps and adapters, 15x5 with 205/75 and 15x8 with 275/60 drag radials. With driver the car is 4100-4135 lbs with rallys, 4000-4020 lbs with the welds, I never put them on a scale to find out for sure what the weights are, maybe I'll do that this weekend if I have time.
Remember that losing rotational weight is akin to losing much more stationary weight. The general rule is 1 lb. rotational weight has the same performance advantage as losing 7 lbs. stationary. Your car will also stop and handle better with the lighter wheels as a bonus to the acceleration.
I’m thinking I would go 15x 7 or 15x8 on back. 7’s all around? I want it to look stock. There’s no point in going too wide on the back for a 68, they have less room than the 70s. I have 255/60/15 on the back now on 7s and I don’t think there’s room for anything wider. Thoughts?
Hmmmm, that would mean that the 100 pounds is now 700 pounds of weight shaved off. That would translate to 0.7 seconds off the quarter mile. Seems a little high.... but i don’t have experience in removing the rotational weight. Hope to take mine to the track tomorrow to see if my manifold modification made a difference!
I agree with you, and I've tested it. I feel the general rule is a bit optimistic, but it most certainly makes a bigger difference than stationary weight. Dealing in smaller vehicles such as snowmobiles, motorcycles, ATVs and such for years we could see that difference very, VERY clearly. I suspect if you drop 100 lbs off the wheel/tire package on a full size car, you'll gain .3-.4 in the quarter mile, as a semi-educated guess. Either way, definitely worth it and going to be cool to see the real world results
The weight difference between my steel wheels with radials tires and the Weld wheels with radial tires is right at 50 lbs total. When I switch from GM painted steel wheels with hubcaps to my light weight Weld wheels I have never seen seen a full tenth (0.10) drop in e.t. I've swapped the wheel/tires at the track on several occasions and the back-to-back e.t.s are so close that I actually can't prove any difference. Both sets of wheels are running MT ET Street Drag Radials so traction is not the issue. This is just a street car running in the 12.0-12.2 range with 60' times in the 1.65-1.72 range. Hopefully you will get more improvement that I do. Since my results are so similar I don't usually race with the shiny wheels anymore as it gives away the Buick sleeper vibe.
I’m at 13.6 (corrected) with the rallye wheels. If i can’t pick up at least 0.2 seconds, then it’d hardly worth the effort. Sounds like it could be anywhere from 0.1 to 0.4!
I picked up little (maybe a tenth) if any ET, car is more consistent but it wasn't a direct comparison, I changed to completely different wheels and tires. If you want dog dishes I would just get stockton steel wheels and pop the caps on.
ALSO along with less static & rotatable weight the lighter the tire wheel assembly's with less weight improves the ride & handling because of LESS UN-sprung wight. Tom T.
82 pounds and reduced a tenth in the quarter. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/light-vs-heavy-wheels-comparison/