I know this is a long shot but does anyone have one in hiding that they would be willing to sell. I am redoing everything from the clutch pedal to the clutch fork. I have run into one problem after another. It now looks like the clutch fork is too short. The part number is 1237118 and has a tab on it that holds the clutch spring. It must be for a 455 and not a 350 as the linkage is different. My 72 is an original 4 speed car and I would like it be as original as I can make it. Whoever restored it many years ago used what was available at the time and most of the parts are not correct. Summer is passing me by and I have not had it on the road yet this year. Thank You, Richie
The fork you have crosses over to a big block, "clevis pin" style. Should be the right one. Why do you think its too short? Do you mean its grabbing right off the floor even at max adjustment?
So right now I have a NOS engine side Ball stud and NOS frame side ball stud. I have the original Z-bar. I also purchase a new z-bar from the Parts place but will not be using it and if someone wants to know why, they can PM me. I have a new Parts Place clutch pedal and clutch pedal bar. I have the original clevis connection. The frame bracket is original but worn to the point that I can not use it. I have a new one from 4 speed conversion and one from Parts Place. They seem identical to each other. The whole z-bar needs to be pushed way over to the motor side so the clevis connection is parallel with the the z-bar arm. Then I tighten the the ball stud on the frame side and it pulls the z-bar towards the frame mount making the clevis connection at an odd angle. If the fork was longer it would allow the clevis to be more parallel. This is using the new frame brackets. When I put on the original bracket, things seem to line up better so I took one of the new brackets and elongated the mounting holes so the bracket can be pushed toward the motor. It seemed to help a lot. I think the the angle on both new frame brackets are not correct. I may try heating up one of the new brackets and bending the end to adjust the angle. I would still like to get a clutch fork to compare it to the one in the car and now I need an original frame bracket. In the picture the pedal was not up against the rubber. When I move the pedal against the rubber, the adjustment of the clevis is more towards the end of the threads and not where it is shown in the picture but the angle is still off. I will get a new picture today using the elongated frame bracket.
So the Parts Place upper rod you have is wrong. That's a small block upper rod. Should measure 14 3/4" The big block one is 15 1/4", so 3/4" longer. Plus it has an upward bend on the end of it so it doesnt rub against the top of the clutch rod hole in the floor plate. Oddly, the Z bar looks like its too far away from the block. I'll have to take a look at mine today. On both my big block 4 speed cars, the Z bar is essentially crooked. I'll post some pics later on today. On both cars, the lower arms of the Z bars had to be slightly tweaked in order to get the lower adjuster installed properly. As an aside, the lower adjuster looks like a Kleiner piece This is a big block upper rod compared to its small block counterpart-
The upper rod is the new rod that just came out from the Parts place. It is suppose to be longer for the 455 set up. They also have a shorter one for the 350. Parts place # MT5241S. I believe that is ok but I will measure it. Right now I think i need to get the Clevis closer to the z-bar.
As far as the z-bar goes, that is the problem I am having. I need the z-bar closer to the motor. This is why I elongated the frame bracket holes. The whole thing needs to be moved over so the clevis lines up. Maybe the z-bar is also a Dave K. and is not made long enough.
Ok, here are some pics. In the first pic, from the machined pad on the block to the outside of the lower arm of the Z bar where Im pointing, it measures almost exactly 2". The lower adjuster isn't exactly parallel to the engine either. I think when the clutch gets depressed, it straightens out a little in its travel And in this pic, you can see how crooked the Z bar is in relation to the frame bracket and block
Just dug out a factory Z bar from my stash. Measures exactly 7 1/2" long. Sorry for the sideways pictures. Ive given up trying to correct it
Here's pics of what I have. The extra stuff in the totes is mostly misc shifter parts and levers. Let me know exactly what your interested in and I will take a close look, and pics for you.
Ok Fred, thank you for this opportunity. This is what I would like to get. The z-bar closest to the tape measure. It has the clevis end still in it. I am not sure which long clutch pedal rod is correct. I know it is one of the longer ones. I'm thinking the middle one. I also think I need the clutch fork closest to the z-bar that I want. I would like the short push rod next to the clutch fork. Next, a frame bracket with the best slot in it. The last thing would like is the triangle sheet metal piece that bolts to the clutch pedal. It is to the left of the frame brackets. Jason can you help me with this? Which long upper push rod is correct and do you know which clutch fork is correct? Tomorrow when I get to work, I can circle on the picture which ones I think I need so there is no misunderstanding.
Jason, thank you for the photos. I measured my z-bar and it is shorter than yours by an 1/8 inch. Can you help with the questions I had about the long rod and clutch fork?
The clutch fork you have looks to be the correct piece. The upper rod should measure a little over 15" from center to center. The BB version should also have a slight bend upward on the Z bar side. I'd be curious if just installing an OE factory Z bar fixes your issue
It may, but Fred has offered me the other original parts and I think this is a one time chance to put it back to factory correct parts.
