The only benefit would be a lighter intake that will accept both QJ and Holley carburetors. Don’t expect a performance boost from it.
I've always picked up .10 with Performer and a little more with B4B...WITH PROPER JETTING. Flows more air so you need to feed it more fuel. A side benefit other than weight saving and ease of installation is that it is easier to grind on if you want to port it. Also dissipates heat better between rounds at the track especially with heat risers blocked in the head.
Cuts out some weight and leaves the carb in the stock location but cuts the already limited hood to air cleaner clearance down. Id go with the B4B
I had a performer. I used a duel snorkle air cleaner from a 5.0 which is a drop base. Used a tapered hex head bolt instead of stud. And still rubbed the hood. Now i have the b4b for new motor still under construction.
Performer leaves the carb pad in the stock location, towards the rear of the engine. B4B puts the carb pad dead center. I believe Buick designed the stock manifold like it is due to the fact that the rear two cylinders 7-8 would run lean and by making the runners shorter corrected that issue.
LOL! now i'm all confused. Was the Performer around when the Stage 2 package was put together with the B4B in 1972? John i'm the last to give a AL intake manifold advice but if there are not to many issues from converting to this AL Performer such as leaks and other little problematic things I would at least give it a try. Wouldn't you think just the 40 lbs weight change and no finer tuning yet it would get into the instant 13 teens with the same street tires out back.. Your at a another level for a 18 year old and could swap manifolds back and forth in 30 minutes.
I got a performer on my 69 Riv. Buy it, worst case you don't want to use it anymore just sell it. There's always guys looking for intakes.
For the fall, since I’ve been gone all summer: Tighten a lot of bolts on the engine to find out where oil is going on long highway trips, cause it's apparently not being burnt in the cylinders The Driverside front window Fix the damn dash brake light, once and for all Auto adjust the drum brakes by using reverse Tighten the exhaust again just to make sure Suspension work Pull one valve cover and check all pushrod lashes to make sure there is clearance of some sort Draw a paint line on the balancer to determine if it ever slips/check if it has already slipped Tighten the drain plug to see if I’m losing my mind If I get ahead of myself on the heads: Verify the diameter of my STEEL fuel line on the passenger side New rear tires Trans work to firm up shifts. Listen to Mark DeConti, .125 for both holes 1-2 and 2-3 New fuel line up to the pump? I'm thinking yes. But maybe not.
Good deal man. I rebuilt my 430 back in 2000... it's been in 4 cars and has spent considerable time on the rev limiter!
