I have been offered these ported heads that have been sitting in a shed for 3-4 years, with light surface rust forming in the runners. In their prime they flowed 280 @ .550 on the intake and about 170-180 on the exhaust. They are Stage 1 replacement heads that have not been cut on the intake side, but were decked .040. Chambers are 64cc and the heads were used for 8-9,000 miles before they were removed. What would you recommend I do to get these heads ready for the street once again on a very tight budget?
"I" would stuff fresh valve seals on them, which gives me a chance to inspect the springs, shims, keepers, retainers, guides, valve stems, valve faces, and valve seats. With "everything" removed from the castings, I'd look 'em over for cracks. Scrub a wire toothbrush in the ports to remove any loose rust. Assemble with fresh lube in the guides Wipe 'em down with some kind of solvent--lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc. Paint as desired. Bolt 'em on. What are you using for rockers and rocker shafts?
If your running a stock Intake Manifold just note that they do not flow anywhere near even 270 cfm so if you bolt those heads on don't expect a really major power increase. In fact you will find that within the amount of added power that those heads will make, that now your rpm range where peak torque comes and in then noses over will be smaller! In a full on race car this trend is delt with by rear gear changes which may not be in the overall picture you have for your car.
It’s a stock 67 intake manifold, so I suspect I would have to do some runner work and cut down the divider. What would you recommend?
Our Rivs are extremely tight on hood clearances. Maybe ask around to see if someone used an SP1 and a drop base in a Riv before. I don't think it will work without cutting a hole in the hood? EDIT: If I'm not mistaken didn't you buy a performer intake not to long ago John??
I tried to buy a performer but the owner found that his new "stock" intake wouldn't fit on his current engine, so he kept the performer and I got my money back.
After doing a bunch of calculations, I will be running right at 10.17 SCR and 7.96:1 DCR assuming that my timing chain has not stretched at all over 1000 miles. I am worried because that is the ragged edge of detonation and I am running *approximately* .070 quench on this 430 due to the .050 or so in-the-hole pistons and the .020 steel shim headgasket. What should I do, once again? However, if my timing chain has stretched a little, even 2*, then my DCR drops to 7.83:1, which seems much safer. I have felpro .040 headgaskets available to me to use, but that will simply drop static compression down to 9.75:1 and DCR to 7.64:1 and now my quench is .090, which seems even more undesirable.
John. I have a brand new Performer. I painted it red (Duplicolor DE 1653). $300 and shipping. I am going with a B4B on my build. I also have a Sealed Power KT3498S timing set I'll include since if that will help you. 20181202173334-931b6b09-me by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 3, 2018 at 9:10 AM 20181202173248-01b64166-me by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 3, 2018 at 9:10 AM 20181202173209-ea8a83f7-me by TrunkMonkey posted Dec 3, 2018 at 9:10 AM
Thank you for the offer Mike, I'll certainly look into it more. I was actually excited about the timing chain maybe getting a little looser for more retard and potential power up top, as well as less DCR, so I will want to stick with my current timing gears.
I found this for sale near the heads. I will aim to pick them both up in one fell swoop. Seller is saving it for me. Would that be a good decision?
