Distributor Part #s and Specs, 1965, 66, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 74

Discussion in 'Buick FAQ' started by LARRY70GS, Jan 19, 2018.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Ethan (Hugger) asked me about this so I thought it would be useful to post. It is in order top to bottom starting with 1965. I am missing 1973, anybody have that? Post it.

    1965IgnitionSpecs.jpg 1966IgnitionSpecs.JPG 1967IgnitionSpecs.JPG 1968IgnitionSpecs.jpg 1969DistSpecs.jpg 1970IgnSpecs.jpg
    1971IgnitionSpecs.JPG 1972IgnitionSpecs.jpg 1973DistributorSpecs.jpg
    1974BuickIgnitionSpecs.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
    2manybuicks, schwemf, JoeBlog and 2 others like this.
  2. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    For what it's worth, here's 73. Had to take a pic of both pages cause dist info is split between both.
    upload_2018-7-30_5-13-2.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Rhett. I used Irfanview to clip out the pertinent information and create one image. I placed it in order in the original post. Best I could do with the low resolution shot. If you have a better picture of it, send that one to my E mail (in my signature), and I'll try to create a better image. For the time, it is legible. Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    1975 Ignition Specs.

    1975IgnitionSpecs.jpg
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Some more distributor numbers and applications.

    DistributorListA.jpg DistributorListB.jpg
     
  6. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Thanks Larry!
     
  7. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Larry, I know have said it time and time again that these 455 like between 30-34* of total timing. As I see the chart for the '71 455 its states 16-20* of total timing.
     
  8. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Manny - You have to add the max vac advance to the max centrifugal to get total.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That is correct, 71-74 distributors were like that as well. Must have been for emissions reasons because it really hamstrings the engines. Look at the Stage 1 distributors in 1971 and 72. 10* of initial + 20-24* of mechanical advance, 30-34* The 71-2 Stage1 cars would have been night and day power wise compared to the GS455, all because of the missing 12-14* of spark advance. Maybe Buick did that so the Stage1 engines would shine all the brighter?

    Yes, but vacuum advance drops out at WOT, leaving you with a maximum spark advance of 20* or so.
     
  10. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Ahhh, I see now. Thanks Larry. At the moment I'm at 30* @ 2,000 RPM.
     
  11. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    And here I was thinking about cruising speed...I need to re-read your tuning thread Larry!
     
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Correct, at cruising speed, there is a light load on the engine, and vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance supplements the partial mechanical advance, but at wide open throttle, vacuum drops to zero, and vacuum advance disappears. That leaves you with the sum of your initial advance and the mechanical advance that is in. With stock springs,full mechanical advance can come in as late as 4600 RPM. Cruising RPM is usually about 2000-2600 RPM, so only part of the mechanical advance is in, vacuum advance supplements that. That is why when you bring your mechanical advance in earlier, you need to limit the vacuum advance degrees to keep from over advancing.
     
  13. Alssb

    Alssb Well-Known Member

    Thank you, Larry
    Perfect timing, was wondering how long it was going to take to
    find a distributor number.
    No time at all...just look at v8buick website.
     
  14. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    Does anyone of you happen to have information about HEI distributor 1110677, like total advance etc? As far as I can tell it is a 1976 unit. Years ago I bought it as a replacement for my 1969 430 engine points distributor. I'm still restoring my car so I haven't been able to test or measure it.
    Only later I found the power timing thread. Is it worthwhile to replace the original distributor?
     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    1110677 is a V6 HEI I believe. You can have your original distributor recurved and convert it to electronic ignition.
     
  16. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    Strange, because it has 8 terminals:
    20210523_170739.jpg
    20210522_123612.jpg
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That part number comes back to a 6 cylinder when I Google it. The cap doesn't mean anything, look at the magnetic pick up inside. An 8 cylinder cap will attach to a 6 cylinder distributor body.
     
  18. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    Well, that's interesting.
    The magnetic pick up inside has 6 tabs, so I guess it corresponds with a V6. The distributor gear it came with has 14 teeth - apparently small block (V6 also has 14?). My points distributor has 13 teeth.
    I Googled the module and it is also for the V8.
    So now what do I do? I understand it is possible to bench test both the module and the coil, so if they turn out ok, would it be possible to convert it?
    Rockauto sells a pickup coil for a few bucks, would it work if I put it in, or are the three tabs on the shaft also V6 specific?
    And then ofcourse I still don't know anything about the mechanical and vacuum advance.
     
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The module is the same for V6 and V8, the shafts are different. Yes, 14 teeth for V6 and 350, 13 teeth for 455. Why don't you just rebuild, recurve, your original distributor and convert it to electronic ignition?
     
  20. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    I don't really know what possible to be honest. I figured sticking in a HEI would be the easiest way. Bypass the resistor and be done with it.

    Do you mean adding something like this?
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1181
    Or do I need to adjust more in that case?

    Also I'm still restoring my car and have just rebuilt my engine so perhaps I'll do the break in with the old one and upgrade later when it runs.. will still take a while though...
     

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