I cannot race anymore, so my performance stuff is for sale. I'm open for offers. Need the money, to build a standard 455 back again, so I can go cruising again. Will consider trades if I know you allready and have done dealings before. Or someone I know here, can vouch for you. This is because I live in The Netherlands, and have learned things the hard way The intake and heads have gotten the TSP special polish treatment so all the aluminium is polished smooth and is closed for any gas spills etc. It will look shiny for ever now. Tri Shield Performance build: 475CID Buick engine 10.7:1 pumpgas engine. 650HP@6200rpm 622 torque @ 4900rpm Aluminium TA Performance Stage 1 Track Eliminator heads, ported and flowed. TA Performance 1.6 Roller Rockers TA Performance SP2A (Stage 3) Aluminium intake. Diamond custom made Forged pistons. Eagle BBC H beam rods TA Performance 308S cam. TA solid lifters Engine main girdle. All oil mods done. Oil balance line to rear main engine bearings Moroso External belt driven oil pump. MSD Pro Billet distributor. PROFORM 950CFM 4150 race carburator. ATI SFI balancer JW SFI Flexplate Trans also for sale JW Full manual trans (TH400) JW 9" 4000 stall convertor
Minus the full manual, which is just a valve body swap, why can you just drive that motor on the street? Sure it will only make 5-6 inches of vacuum at idle, but manual brakes dont need vacuum. Unless that block is filled, I dont see any reason that's not a pump gas.......although premium fuel.....motor???? If the belt drive oil pump is the issue I'm sure a traditional set of gear and crank pulley could be install and away you go
I’m asking 8500 dollars for the engine. But am open for offers so someone else can enjoy this Buick power
Dunno about the gear and crank pulley system you are referring to, but sounds like something to drive a pro charger? The engine is 3/4 filled. Have thought about a cam swap. But these heads and intake are for high rpm racing. Have also thought about reusing the crank pistons etc and have another shortblock bored to the specs of these pistons. Cause they are like new still. Only 1000-1200 miles on this engine. But thats my last resort if i want to get rid of the belt driving oil pump and the 3/4 filled block. Hate to seperate this engine cause it performs so good. And i want to drive the car on long trips again. engine is 10.7:1 compression and likes BP 98 octane the best, thats premium fuel down here, we just have 2 kinds 95 and 98 octane.
How much for the transmission? Id have to assume that any "deal" would be killed by shipping charges to the states? You are probably looking for a buyer on your side of the world.
That's biggest thing.....keeping oil and water temps down.........the coolant running deep in the block helps cool the oil as well. There are plenty of ppl that drive belt drives on the street, they just require attention to keep belt tension in order and keep a couple spare belts with you. That intake even though is ment to perform well at upper rpms.........there should be no issues with street manors down low either........I drop an sp1 on the street with a 950 cfm 4150 holley with no issues..........just know with your cam power brakes wont work......just go manual If I had that much into my motor and knowing you have good gas......I would just put a forward automatic valve body in it, swap shifter to forward pattern if yours is a reverse only set up and try it b4 you sell it.
When the engine is sold, I will sell the transmission seperately. Its now a complete package, and still in the car.
My shifter/trans valvebody is a forward pattern. Car has no PB or PS. So no problems with vacuum. It will need much longer gears (it has 4.56:1 in it now, need to go to 3.73/3.55) . And need to swap the full spool for a TrueTrac posi. And install a good engine oil cooler, like you said.
Will ask what shipping will be, by shipping freight. I had my engine, trans, convertor and some other stuff send by UPS airfreight in a big wooden crate, since I wanted it in 4 days here. So those prices we can't compare to normal ship freight.
I prefer a forward manual. With some of my engines having aluminum rods,it is nicer to knock it into neutral after the pass. Every bit helps with longevity. Does that transmission have an ultra-bell or anything,or is it all stock case?