After 3 years of using the Fitech system I have grown tired of let downs. I have the 1200 hp system..runs good when its running, which is most of the time, but have a headache at times too (bad injectors, rpm noise, wrong settings and electrical issues). Anyway, I'm considering going to a carburetor; never had one on this motor but I believe it would be less of a hassle. Which carb do you guys recommend? Street/strip...462, SPX intake, 600 hp on motor, plus 150 shot. Want to run fast at the track and good on the street. Thanks
This may/may not be of interest to you. The distributor causes a lot of interference with the electronic control module mounted to the EFI unit. Normally the cause is the steel hold down for the air cleaner & wing nut. What it does is act like an antenna & the metal air cleaner makes it even more so. Replace the steel stud with a plastic stud & I will almost guarantee most of your problems could be solved. How much could it cost??? Just do a search for plastic threaded rod. It could save you the time & $$$$$ it could cost to swap over as your planning. Another option would be to run a ground wire from the air cleaner metal base & top to a good ground on the engine. AGAIN, how much could it cost & the time to install??? You could even install it under the air cleaner wing nut. Tom T.
The sensitivity of the system is what's propelling me to change over. Never thought I'd have to ground the air cleaner.
That's what we get when we try to introduce new technology into our old iron. There should be SOMETHING stating that in the instructions sent. This is NOT something new. They know about it!!!! WHY do we have to drive ourselves crazy when IF they would have mentioned something we would then be aware of the potential problems. Then again how many read/gloss over the instruction sheet??? Tom T.
but to answer your question any 850 to 1050cfm 4150 carb is what you need,...at that level they all will have the "HP" style body,..the AED HO carbs are one of the best bang for the buck
I was just typing almost the same thing ethan..........I was going to ask if you need/wanted a choke. If so 850 is as big as they go. But for best power a 900-1050 4150 would be best
I'd like to stay under $600. Also is it OK to buy one used? I heard new ones often give you problems too.
It would be easy enough to test Tom's theory by simply removing the air cleaner and going for a ride. I'm a skeptic but definitely curious to get the results...
Just removing the aircleaner is NOT enough to cut down on the interference of NOW the metal carb. It would STILL need the ground wire on one of the hold down bolts/nuts to further help to cut down on the interference.
Its always something with this system. My current issue is low fuel pressure from the fuel command center. The solution is to replace the deteriorated fuel line inside the canister. can you believe the manufacturer used a non-submersible fuel line to sit inside of fuel 24/7?
I just bought a quick fuel ss 750 cfm with annular boosters. Supposed to be a great carb. You would need more cfm. I've read great things about annular boosters and lots of manufacturers are offering them now. They'll give you similar throttle response as fuel injection.
I wouldn’t buy a used carb buy new. A 750 or 850 Holley double pumper. Likely the main issue is that crappy fuel command Center lots of issues with those! Sump your fuel tank and ditch the command Center or yes just swap to a carb.
850-1050 carb easy way My 750 starts right up faster than my fuel injected car and truck can restart after 1 hr without no shot of fuel
I have never owned a new carb . but when one work goods ,I hang unto it . You can save a money buying used carbs . L me tell this , I'm 74 years old and racing Buicks for just over 56 years. I've gone 14.70 @ 96 mph with a1937 Buick century with two barrel on a 320 inch inline 8 [ used carb ] to 10.03 @133 mph in same 1937 Buick Century with 496 ci BBB with a used 1150 Holley . If don' t know must about carbs talk to racer or online . good luck Bud