So I've bought booster plate kit for my 1971 350 engine. I'm not intending to replace gears/rebuild the pump. The instructions talk about using a feeler gauge, checking clearance and using shim gaskets however my kit only came with one paper and one plastic (mylar) gasket? I'm guessing I don't need to do this step as not rebuilding the pump? So it's just pack housing with Vaseline to hold gears in, paper gasket between cover and plate, mylar gasket with very thin layer of rtv each side between plate and housing then torque to spec? Will I need to prime the pump as well if not rebuilding? Bit nervous about this. Many thanks!
Contact Ta Performance, they have a gasket kit for the oil pump with different thickness, gaskets to get the correct clearance.
Whatever you do, do not use any kind of sealer on the gaskets. And yes, you will need to prime the pump.
ALL your questions are answered in this thread, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-clearances-and-oil-pressure.326597/ Anytime you disturb the seal between the timing cover/pump cover, you should verify oil pressure by spinning the pump, BEFORE starting the engine.
Thanks for all the advice. Next question having read the post I was referred to is do I even need to bother with booster plate? Have verified oil pressure with 2 gauges and I'm pretty much exactly 10psi/1000rpm even at hot idle. (7psi at 700 rpm)
The booster plate and blueprinting the internal clearances will improve your hot oil pressure. Your choice. As long as you have 10 psi/1000 RPM, you have sufficient oil pressure.
Examine the pump cover plate for scoring. If there is wear, then the booster plate will improve the pressures.
Thanks, so after have removed pump cover and installed booster plate can I make an oil pump prime tool run off a drill with a screwdriver or do I need a specialist tool? (Being in UK hard to get an old distributor or the correct tool)
If you have a big screwdriver that you can cut off that works. Or if you can source a scrap distributer, that could be good too.
Great so as only moving oil pump drive and not rotating engine im guessing if I mark distributor location before I remove and put back in same location afterwards my timing wont be affected?
Yes. I would rotate the engine until it is at TDC on #1. Confirm that by removing the Distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower and not the #6. Then make a mark on the distributor collar and timing cover. An alternate is to remove all the spark plugs, and spin the engine over with the starter motor until you see pressure on your gauge. Your choice.