If all else fails, get one of these; https://www.yearone.com/Product/196...-1970-1971-1972-buick-skylark-gs-parts/l32105 If in you don't have A/C, they sell the engine harness without as well. You may be able to find the harness for less, I only did a quick look up Bing search, you may even be able to find one on evilbay for less? I hate dealing with spaghetti mess wiring that a previous owner cobbled up! A new engine wiring harness would help make things a lot easier it looks like. GL Derek
Honestly, I don't think his harness needs more than two $4 links, a couple of eyelet crimp connectors and some electrical tape.
Hey! So I'm not doing anything today since I work but I have a question, when I first got the car, the wiring was what weird, the yellow wire wasn't even on the starter, as well as the purple was on the R terminal and it seemed to still start over, I was wondering how that was even possible?
Its not possible. The car wont crank if the purple isn't on the S terminal. The yellow wire provides 12v to the points on crank for easier starting. So the yellow can be left off the R terminal. It just might not start up as quickly if you still have points
OOO okay, so I have everything on besides the yellow wire ATM, and didn't know if it was the fusible wire last night so I left those on with the battery cable and put the purple wire on the S terminal but didn't seem to want to turn over still.
Then you need to check to make sure the purple wire has power when the key is in the crank position. You either have no power to the purple wire or you have a bad starter
I actually did check last night with the machine to check it and it had no voltage to it but the battery cable was getting power
Jessie, that means nothing. You need to test it with a digital volt ohm meter. If its got 12 volts going to it, you have a bad starter. If it doesn't we need to test at the switch The two knobs are vent knobs. Pulling them allows outside air into the vents. Non AC cars have those.
the starter is not getting the 12 volts required from the purple wire to turn the car over but the car itself is receiving power.
ya, the two knobs open flapper doors at your feet, on the side. 1 is driver side and the other is passenger side.
Ok, so if the purple wire is dead, go under the dash and look at the ignition switch. You should see the purple wire coming out of one of the connectors. Check for voltage there. Remember, you have to hold the key in the CRANK position to test for voltage at the purple wire. See if you have voltage coming out of the switch going to the starter. If its dead there, you either have a bad ignition switch, no power into the switch or its not adjusted correctly (the holes in the switch that attach it to the ignition switch are slotted) If you want to test your theory about no power at the S terminal. Get a length of wire and crimp on an eyelet connector to it. Connect the wire to the S terminal of the starter. Make sure the car is in PARK and the ignition key is in the RUN position. Now touch the end of the wire to the POS of the battery with your hand . Be careful because the car may start up. You now have essentially jumped out/ bypassed the ignition switch. The car should crank if the solenoid is good and the starter is capable of working.
So we touched the terminals together (as we did the theory and it seems to not want to work) but the starter was turning over itself, we still haven't checked the purple wire underneath but we're doing that next.
So your getting power out of the switch but nothing at the starter? And you have the purple wire attached to the S terminal? Is your battery not fully charged?
