Thinking Hydraulic Roller Cam - Thoughts, what do I need to Know?

Anyone using a "smaller" hydraulic roller cam like a TA212? (My current cam)
Freshening up my 462 due to a leaky rear main, so now would be a good time for an upgrade.
Having a hard time searching info on the board for this, any old links I saved dont work anymore.
I thought edwards (sp) wagon - billygoat, may have had a small roller? And didnt JW's "sneaky" motor build up awhile back use a hyd. roller? Cant find those threads.
Not completely sure what is needed for the change over.

 

Ya, I have a "Super Stage 1" hydraulic roller grind that works well. Small specs, excellent vacuum, idle quality and low speed torque. No requirements for custom torque converters or other equipment.

I built the second copy of my "Super Stage 1" (470 shortblock, TA alum heads, stock or Edelbrock intake, Q-jet, headers or manifolds and this cam) and installed it in a typical 70 Stage 1. This one had my VP trans and converter, but there was never any need to put it in high stall. Great cam for someone who wants more power, but no downsides. Those motors make 475ish HP with exhaust manifolds, and right around 500 with headers.

JW

 

Jim. Do you stock these cams and/or kits?

 

would that grind work for a street engine at around 10.6 compression with the piston sitting flush with deck?

 

Good info, didn't realize the distributor gear had to change. If using a TA front cover, its just a matter of setting the clearance for the cam bumper? Or do modifications still need to be done.
Sounds like the "Super Stage 1" cam is what I'm looking for.
Are these a grind to order cam?

 

The fuel pump eccentric on my new roller cam looks huge compared to a stock one. I called TA and they said you have to space the fuel pump out 5/16-3/8" when mounting as well

 

Is there a spacer for the fuel pump available? Or are you guys making your own?

 

They are ground to order, because as Larry noted, they flirt with DCR limits, so it very much depends on exactly what your engine is, spec wise.. I will juggle the intake lobe and lobe location a bit to insure we don't end up with too much squeeze for your combo.

Yes, I have a particular one that I use wth Alum heads, and my standard 470 shortblock, which is zero deck and with 68cc heads, comes in at 10-35-1.. for a couple tenths more compression, would probably just suggest installing it with less advance.

Edwardo's cam was orginally installed at -1* The current version of that cam is slightly bigger.

JW

 

Just have to wait to get the block and crank back from the grinder. A little came off the block to clean up the gasket surface, so I'll want to recheck deck height before locking in a cam.

I assume the TA1621A / L2353F30 pistons are fine as is, or are valve notches needed (Stage 1 size valves)?

 

How does one check this with the heads on? Block hasn't been touched but not sure about the heads on my car. I want to switch cams.

 

I find it far more complicated to measure the valve to piston clearance without removing the heads. You basically use a super light valve spring and measure how far the valve can go towards the head before hitting the piston when it is at it's highest point.

What I do is I remove the heads, install the cam and degree it in, find out if the pistons are all the same depth from the deck if the block, if one piston is close use that one to measure from. When an engine is blueprinted properly all the pistons will be the same distance from the deck but it's good to check anyway.

Anyways so then I put some plasticine on the piston top, put the head back on... No need to change the valve spring using this method And no dial indicator is needed. Put the pushrods and rockers on And turn the engine over till that cylinder has gone through both compression and exhaust strokes. Then remove the head and measure how thick the plasticine is where the valves have imprinted it.

I even check even when using pistons with valve reliefs as who knows maybe a notch is in the wrong spot.

 

Great, I don't suppose the heads could be shaved too much then?

 

Shaving the heads a lot will reduce the valve to piston clearance but in most cases you still won't have an issue unless the cam is HUGE or your pistons are close to zero deck. It is still the best practice to check for clearance but most people find out the hard way...