I know I've seen it here before, but couldn't find any info on replacing the factory rod bolts with ARP bolts. Is there any thing special that has to be done to the rods besides being resized.
Nope it's pretty straight forward.....just have the shop check the rods over well after bolts are in. The arp bolts locate differantly than the stk bolts do. So once arp are install sometime the cap and rods don't line up smoothly
I think its actually chamfering that needs to be done because of the generous radius on the underside of the ARP bolt head. I've heard some BBB rods don't need it, but it's worth checking. See http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/125-6001.pdf Devon
And just a tip it may be a better investment to get the aftermarket rods from TA since I think the cost is down to about $600 now so it is really not much more $ vs re-sizing stock rods with ARP...
Umm , it's a lot more money than resizing stock rods, even with 2-3 sets of cores as candidates (unless you buy cores at ready to go prices). Admittedly, there aren't too many builds I bother with stock rods on though. The new parts are definitely are a good investment.
And if I may, I'll add that the original rods with properly installed ARP fasteners have a long history of being quite dependable, even with heavy pistons. The failure mode for the big block rods has always been #1 oil, #2 bolts, #3 rpm and I dare say that's in order. Devon
Just remember that with any Rod bolts that after 4 full Torque up cycles it's time for new bolts again! If you going to put your motor together once to check clearances you may need to pull it all down again to correct something so in this case only Torque up the Rod bolt to 38 pounds, then your final assembly of the motor will be only the 2nd full loading of the bolt!
No , the bolts also, They can only be stretched out so many times before they gain too much length ! But yes on many they say nuts need to be tossed every time, but that would seem to be more with bolts that go above 45 lbs.
You might get differing opinions but after keeping records on many, I've found that aftermarket bolts can go much longer than 4 before permanent deformation. (I'm assuming we aren't talking about factory bolts here) ARP used to suggest at least 3 torque cycles to burnish in fully. ARP also used to suggest they go more than 12 cycles, so 4 might be a matter of personal preference or experience with a particular p/n. It's definitely not a bad idea to replace if there are no records to indicate permanent deformation. A street/strip engine isn't torn down for inspection as often as other types, so it's good advice to replace more than really needed.